@article{ruseva_evaluating_2024,
	title = {Evaluating women's jacket sleeves designs for sustainable fashion and textile waste reduction},
	volume = {75},
	issn = {12225347},
	url = {https://www.revistaindustriatextila.ro/images/2024/5/001%20IRINA%20RUSEVA%20INDUSTRIA%20TEXTILA%20no.5_2024.pdf},
	doi = {10.35530/IT.075.05.2023120},
	abstract = {Finding the most efficient marker planning method is crucial to reduce cut-and-sew waste. Small adjustments to the
design and pattern can help reduce the amount of fabric waste, since marking loss happens during the cutting process
because of spaces and unusable sections between pattern pieces and the curved pattern edges.
Existing research mainly concentrates on optimising the consumption of textile material without taking into account the
design, aesthetics and functionality of the final product. On the other hand, they are mainly focused on optimizing the
sleeves’ construction and in search of new design solutions, with gaps in quantitative and comparative analysis to
reduce waste while producing women's jackets.
This article aims to propose and explore constructive changes in women's jacket designs with 5 different types of
sleeves, to assess the possibility of reducing cut-and-sew waste levels in the cutting process. There have been created
4 different marker plans for each type of sleeve to achieve the high-efficiency markers. It was found that the semi-raglan
sleeve showed the marker efficiency with the best results (76.04\%), followed by the raglan sleeve with 72.03\% and
72.34\% for the drop shoulder sleeve. Interestingly, for the raglan and semi-raglan sleeve variants, the marker efficiency
is not affected by the specific geometric characteristics.
The Principal Component Analysis (PCA) method was used to determine which pattern arrangement variant was most
appropriate for the different sleeve types.},
	number = {05},
	urldate = {2024-10-28},
	journal = {Industria Textila},
	author = {Ruseva, Irina and Genova, Krasimira and Kazlacheva, Zlatina and Indrie, Liliana and Zlatev, Zlatin},
	month = oct,
	year = {2024},
	pages = {535--542},
}