Issue 4 / 2021

Inner covers

Article: An event-related potential study on the aesthetics of colour matching on silk fabric

Authors: KAIWEI NIE, RUN WEN, HUANPING MO, XIAOXIA ZHANG, ZHONG WANG, GUOHE WANG
Pages: 349–356
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1801
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

In this work, cognitive behaviour and electroencephalography (EEG) of 16 subjects applied colour matching and contrast colour matching to silk fabrics had been measured. The results showed that, the exogenous components P1 (100 ms) and P2 (200 ms) were mainly produced in the frontal, temporal, apical, and occipital regions, while the endogenous component P3 (300 ms) was mainly produced in the front-top area, the front-central area, the central-top area, and the top-pillow area. Regarding P1, the information transmission speed was faster than contrasting colours with matching process. Regarding P2, external and internal factors and their interactions significantly affected amplitude, whereas only interactions affected latency, and the interaction was stronger with colour matching. Regarding P3, colour matching type, involved brain area, and interactions had no significant effect on amplitude and latency. The information processing of same colour system in brain has shorter information processing time and faster information transmission. That indicated the EEG technology could provide objective visual cognitive aesthetic rules for silk fabric colour matching, and provide reference value for fabric manufacturers to timely understand consumers’ preference for fabric colour categories.
Keywords: silk fabric, colour matching, EEG technology, visual cognition, aesthetic law

Citation: Nie, K., Wen, R., Mo, H., Zhang, X., Wang, Z., Wang, G., An event-related potential study on the aesthetics of colour matching on silk fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 349–356,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1801

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Article: Evaluation of jobs in textile companies from Hidalgo-Mexico, through an instrument for job satisfaction

Authors: TIRSO JAVIER HERNÁNDEZ-GRACIA, DANAE DUANA-AVILA
Pages 357-360 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.202025
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

In the Mexican textile industries, State of Hidalgo’s especially, conditions as high temperatures, the handling of chemical substances, high noise and vibration levels, humidity, dust and others, continuously exposes workers to associated risks. Diagnosing and proposing improvements by working conditions assessments are not easy to perform, especially if this is not an essential item in the culture of those responsible for carrying them out neither have honest opinions of employees about problems or risks during work hours, without posing a threat to their current labour status. This study aims to assess 420 worker’s job post, using an occupational satisfaction instrument finding the lowest rankings in ironing area.
Keywords: job evaluation, job satisfaction, company, industrial sector, work area

Citation: Hernández-Gracia, T.J., Duana-Avila, D., Evaluation of jobs in textile companies from Hidalgo-Mexico, through an instrument for job satisfaction, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 357–360,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.202025

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Article: Analysis of heat transfer and factors affecting the thermal properties on rib 1x1 knitwear

Authors: MARIJA PEŠIĆ, VASILIJE PETROVIĆ, NENAD ĆIRKOVIĆ, JOVANA STEPANOVIĆ
Pages 361-367 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1802
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

Clothing comfort is very important feature which is considered as a result of different process of heat exchange between human body, clothing and environment. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the impact of clothing insulation on the heat transfer. The measurements were carried out on commercially 1x1 RIB knitted fabrics used for the production of next-to-skin shirts. The one group of samples are made from 100% cotton yarn and another with 96% cotton and 4% lycra. It is noticed that knitted material composition affected the change in heat resistance. Also, this paper presents and verifies the correlation between the measured values of thermal resistance (Rct) and the knitwear thickness (dpl), the covering factor (K), the porosity of the twists (ε) and the surface coefficient (δp). Based on these results, a mathematical model for calculating thermal resistance is proposed. Comparing the results obtained with the proposed equation and the measured results, we can see that the deviations are minimal. The highest deviation for sample C4 is 0.05%, while the largest deviation for sample CL4 is 4.6%.
Keywords: RIB knitwear, heat transfer, thermal resistance, porosity, tightness factor, surface coefficient

Citation: Pešić, M., Petrović, V., Ćirković, N., Stepanović, J., Analysis of heat transfer and factors affecting the thermal properties on rib 1x1 knitwear, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 361–367,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1802


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Article: Effects of wetting and compression/recovering time on the compressional behaviour of sanitary napkin layers

Author: SUKRAN KARA
Pages 368-377 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1795
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

Sanitary napkins are technical textile products which are used by women. They are designed as layered structures to fulfil several end–use properties at the same time. One of the most important properties of sanitary napkins is absorption property and this is widely studied in the literature. On the other hand, formability and sensorial comfort of sanitary napkins are of great importance but they are ignored during scientific researches. During daily life, women sit or sleep for certain time intervals and their sanitary napkins are exposed to compressional forces. If the sanitary napkin will squeeze and not recover, this can result with poor sensorial comfort and low formability. Also, wetting of sanitary napkins during usage can worsen the compressional properties. Therefore in this study, effect of wetting and compression/recovering time on the compressional behaviours of sanitary napkins was evaluated. Study was focused on separate sanitary napkin layers in order to detect the most problematic layers. Two compression times and four recovering times were applied to samples for compression tests. Also, sanitary napkin layers were characterised by scanning electron microscopy, unit mass, thickness and bending measurements. According to results, top sheet layer was the most compressible layer in dry and wet states. This is expected to give a soft and resilience sense to the sanitary napkin. Absorbent layer was responsible for low compressibility of sanitary napkins under different compression/recovering times. Bending rigidity of absorbent layer was the highest in dry state but it exhibited a dramatic decrement after wetting.
Keywords: sanitary napkin layers, dry compressibility, wet compressibility, thickness loss, compression-recovery time, bending behaviour

Citation: Kara, S., Effects of wetting and compression/recovering time on the compressional behaviour of sanitary napkin layers, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 368–377,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1795

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Article: Analysing competitiveness of Denizli home textile sector

Authors: SENEM PAK, TURAN ATILGAN, SEHER KANAT
Pages 378-387 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1805
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

Turkey, which is the biggest home textile supplier for European Union, is the fourth biggest home textile supplier of the world. Besides, Denizli province is the place where this sector is clustered and strongly operated in Turkey. Therefore, Denizli home textile sector is a structure, which explicitly and accurately represents Turkish home textile sector. In this context, this research aims to analyse the competitiveness of Denizli home textile sector, which substantially contributes to Turkish textile and clothing sector. In accordance with the aim of the research, the competitiveness of Denizli home textile sector is analysed by using Porter’s diamond model. According to the obtained results, competitiveness of Denizli home textile sector is determined as high.
Keywords: home textiles, Denizli home textile sector, Porter’s diamond model, competitiveness

Citation: Pak, S., Atilgan, T., Kanat, S., Analysing competitiveness of Denizli home textile sector, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 378–387,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1805

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Article: The effect of service marketing mix elements and customer retention towards clothing store brands in China

Authors: BESTOON OTHMAN, HE WEIJUN, ZHENGWEI HUANG, WIRYA NAJM RASHID, JING XI, FANG YUAN
Pages 388-397 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1777
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

The aim of this paper was to analyse the impact of service marketing mix (promotion, price, place, product, people, process, physical evidence and after sale service) on customer retention towards clothing store brands in China. Based on the analysis of past literature, it appeared that there were only few studies examining the empirical relation between the two constructs, particularly in the clothing sector in China. A comprehensive survey approach was used to collect data from a total of 385 customers visiting clothing stores in the middle part of China (Hubei). SPSS and PLS were used to analyse the obtained data. The findings showed that there were significant positive effects on customer retention in all dimensions of the service marketing mix. Finally, the findings suggested that after-sales service plays an important role in impacting the retention of customers. The contribution of this research was supporting the significance relationship of the marketing mix elements in influencing the retention of customers in the clothing industry with empirical data from China.
Keywords: product, after sale service, price, physical evidence, process, clothing industry

Citation: Othman, B., Weijun, H., Huang, Z., Rashid, W.N., Xi, J., Yuan, F, The effect of service marketing mix elements and customer retention towards clothing store brands in China, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 388–397,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1777

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Article: Analysing portfolio diversification opportunities in selected stock markets of North and South America and their impact on the textile sector: An empirical case study

Authors: RAMONA BIRAU, CRISTI SPULBAR, AJMAL HAMZA, EJAZ ABDULLAH, ELENA LOREDANA MINEA, ALI IMRAN ZULFIQAR, MIHAI OVIDIU CERCEL
Pages 398-407 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1808
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

This empirical study investigates the financial integration linkages among the sample stock markets of Canada, Mexico, United States (for both New York Stock Exchange, i.e. NYSE and NASDAQ), Panama, Brazil, Chile, Peru, Venezuela, Jamaica, Trinidad, and Tobago during the period from January 2001 to April 2019. This research study also examines the impact of selected stock market dynamics on the textile sector. International portfolio diversification has been an important subject of research in financial fraternity since the emergence of Modern Portfolio Theory in 1952. This study examines the portfolio diversification opportunities in the 11 stock markets of Americas.International diversification among stock market indices has proven to be fruitful in the past. Certain tests have been used to determine opportunities for diversification are correlation test, pairwise co-integration test, multiple co-integration test and granger causality test. The empirical results show that stock market indices share low correlation among other and they are not highly co-integrated whereas results of Granger causality test exhibit an unidirectional relationship among few stock markets in short run.
Keywords: portfolio diversification strategy, co-integration, textile industry, Granger causality test, correlation coefficient, modern portfolio theory

Citation: Birau, R., Spulbar, C., Hamza, A., Abdullah, E., Minea, E.L., Zulfiqar, A.I., Cercel, M.O., Analysing portfolio diversification opportunities in selected stock markets of North and South America and their impact on the textile sector: An empirical case study, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 398–407,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1808

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Article: Enhancement of muscle’s activity by woven compression bandages

Authors: ABDELHAMID R.R. ABOALASAAD, BRIGITA K. SIRKOVÁ, GOZDE GONCU-BERK
Pages 408-417 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1789
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

Electromyography (EMG) test, the recording of electrical activity in muscle, is a main tool usually used to evaluate the muscle’s activation. This study aims to discuss and analyse the effect of woven compression bandage (WCB) on muscles’ activation. Flexor Carpi (FC), Soleus (SO), and Medial Gastrocnemius (MG) muscles were selected to represent the wrist, ankle, and mid-calf muscles respectively, which were then evaluated by EMG electrical voltage test with and without wearing WCB. The standardized activities used to test the FC muscle were flexion-extension and squeezing a soft roll. While the protocol activities for MG and SO muscles were flexion-extension and walking actions. Wearing WCB significantly decreased the muscle’s activation and was associated with higher median frequency for both SO and MG muscles during the tested activities. The EMG signals were analysed and filtered using MegaWin and MATLAB software. Root mean square (RMS) values confirmed that wearing WCB could improve the performance of FC, SO, and MG muscles and might reduce the muscle’s fatigue during the selected activities.
Keywords: Electromyography test, woven compression bandages, muscle activation, MegaWin and MATLAB software

Citation: Aboalasaad, A.R.R., Sirková, B.K., Goncu-Berk, G., Enhancement of muscle’s activity by woven compression bandages, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 408–417,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1789

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Article: The comparison of classical weaving and laser technology in denim fabric’s design

Authors: BEFRU R. BÜYÜKBAYRAKTAR, GÜLCAN ERCIVAN BATUR
Pages 418-425 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1790
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

Denim fabrics became a preferred product by many people, because of especially being a symbol of comfort. In this study, the aesthetic and physical design of denim fabrics were carried out. It was aimed to compare the surface designs and structural parameters of denim fabrics obtained by weaving and laser technologies. Besides the design steps of weaving and laser technologies were explained and compared. Twelve denim fabrics having different surface designs were obtained with the intersection of indigo dyed warp and non-dyed weft yarns based on the theme of “contrast” by using derivatives of twill weave. Besides, these surface patterns were applied to classical denim fabrics by laser technology. The surface properties of denim fabrics produced by weaving technology were different for each surface designs because of different floatings. However, weaving is a time-consuming method and the design steps are more complicated. On the other hand, surface patterns of fabrics obtained by laser technology were found similar to woven ones and it had advantages as having greater design capacity, being a simpler, faster and eco-friendly method.
Keywords: denim fabric, design, laser technology, weaving

Citation: Büyükbayraktar, B.R., Batur, G.E., The comparison of classical weaving and laser technology in denim fabric’s design, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 418–425,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1790

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Article: Information technology integration and the competitiveness of textile industry in China

Authors: HUA YUAN, XUEWEI JIANG, HUI TAO, JUNJIE ZHANG
Pages 426-433 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1715
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

The aim of study is to analyse the relationship between the competitiveness and integration of Information technology (IT) into textile industry. This research has constructed a theoretical framework to explore how the textile industry integrating IT can improve the competitiveness. A regression model was established for analysing the relationship between them by using the data of textile industry in China from 2004 to 2015. The empirical results revealed that the integration of textile industry and IT industry not only enhanced the temporary competitiveness but also contributed to the sustainable competitiveness of the textile industry. Thus, the findings suggest that the textile industry integrated with IT industry will promote competitiveness of China’s textile industry and it will be new trend of industrial development.
Keywords: textile industry, information industry, industrial integration, coupling coordination degree, competitiveness

Citation: Yuan, H., Jiang, X., Tao, H., Zhang, J., Information technology integration and the competitiveness of textile industry in China, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 426–433,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1715

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Article: Study on soil burial biodegradation behaviour on polylactic acid nonwoven material as a replacement for petroleum agricultural plastics

Authors: CRISTINA ELENA STROE, TEODOR SÂRBU, VASILICA MANEA, FLOAREA BURNICHI, DUMITRU MITEL TOMA, CĂTĂLINA TUDORA
Pages 434-442 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1847
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

Currently, the issues related to environmental pollution with plastics are a major concern. Agriculture is a vital area for human existence, but it generates large amounts of plastic waste. These result from agricultural practices that use systems and support materials which help facilitate the work of farmers and offer a better yield of production and quality of crops, in relation to the smaller areas of agricultural land. An alternative can be the use of sustainable textiles that can bring multiple benefits to the agricultural sector, including: pollution reduction, biodegradation potential, reduced consumption of agricultural inputs like pesticides, herbicides, fertilizers and water, high retention potential for water and good ventilation, increased productivity and quality for the agricultural crops, etc.
First of all, this paper discusses the potential use of bio-based and eco-friendly polymers, such as polylactic acid (PLA), in the form of fibres for the production of non-woven textile structures that can be used as a support element in agricultural practices and for the replacement of conventional plastics obtained from oil resources. Secondly, considering the advantage of the biodegradation property of this material, the durability and the influence of the location depth in a degrading natural environment such as soil, were the target of experiments to highlight the positive aspects of polylactic acid use in the context of the circular economy. To demonstrate the proposed objectives, different physico-mechanical analyses were performed to determine the morphological characteristics of the fibres, the tensile strength, the material thickness and the possible loss of mass due to microbial activity.
Keywords: agro-plastics, polylactic acid fibres, mulching material, biodegradability, life expectancy, waste reduction

Citation: Stroe, C.E., Sârbu, T., Manea, V., Burnichi, F., Toma, D.M., Tudora, C., Study on soil burial biodegradation behaviour on polylactic acid nonwoven material as a replacement for petroleum agricultural plastics, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 434–442,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1847

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Article: Agglomeration and total factor productivity of China’s textile industry

Authors: ZHANG JIANLEI, AN NA, CHENG LONGDI
Pages 443-448 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.202013
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

Agglomeration is an important characteristic in China’s textile industry development. But regional textile industry is seriously unbalanced, only eastern location entropy (LQ) is greater than 1 and is the highest of all, followed by the central, western and north-eastern regions. Total factor productivity (TFP) is an important indicator to measure the economic growth efficiency. The average annual growth rate (AAGR) of eastern textile industry TFP is the least and central TFP growth rate is the fastest. In order to investigate the relationship between agglomeration and TFP of China’s textile industry, especially at region level, this paper applies panel model to study how agglomeration influences TFP during 2005–2018. The results show that increasing agglomeration degree restrains the TFP growth of China’s textile industry. The coefficients of LQ on textile industry in China and four regions are all negative. There exists crowded effect in eastern textile industry. It has not formed the significant agglomeration effect in western and north-eastern textile industry for very low agglomeration degree. So it implies that eastern textile industry can accelerate the implementation of industrial transfer and structural adjustment to lower agglomeration and maintain sustained profitability of textile enterprises. Western textile industry can strengthen agglomeration by undertaking industrial transfer from eastern region to form agglomeration effect to promote TFP growth.
Keywords: industrial agglomeration, location entropy, total factor productivity, DEA-Malmquist method, crowded effect

Citation: Jianlei, Z., Na, A., Longdi, C., Agglomeration and total factor productivity of China’s textile industry, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 443–448,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.202013

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Article: Design of a small-scale UAV textile wing fluid-structure numerical modelling

Authors: ADRIAN SALISTEAN, DOINA TOMA, IONELA BADEA, MIHAELA JOMIR
Pages 449–453 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1844
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

This paper depicts the early phase in the research development for an integrated UAV (Unmanned Aerial Vehicle) support system tailored for emergency response actions and remote sensing. The support system is envisioned as an integrated Unmanned Aerial System (UAS) system that consists of one or more ultralight multifunctional aerial units with a configuration that can be adapted to the nature of the intervention: monitoring, mapping, observation, logistics etc. These aerial units comprise of para-motor type UAVs that use textile paraglider wings of a special design.
The overall development and theoretical design aspects that are involved in this research is subject of change been part of an ongoing research study. Starting from wing airfoil and material selection, a design phase is under development for a single sail paraglider wing that can meet the operational demands for the envisioned system. The wing is designed mainly to have an easy handling, predictable deployment at all times and good aerodynamic characteristics. The paper tackles in particular the stretch effect on the wing and the influence on these aerodynamic characteristics as well as means of minimizing the adverse effects.
Keywords: Unmanned Aerial System (UAS), parachute, paraglider, SingleSkin sail, technical textiles

Citation: Salistean, A., Toma, D., Badea, I., Jomir, M., Design of a small-scale UAV textile wing fluid-structure numerical modelling, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 449–453,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1844

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Article: Optimising the amount of base material used for manufacturing garments with creases, during their design stage

Authors: MANUELA AVĂDANEI, ANTONELA CURTEZA, CARMEN BLEJAN, IONUȚ DULGHERIU, EMIL CONSTANTIN LOGHIN, DORIN IONESI, CEZAR-DORU RADU
Pages 454–459 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1845
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

The clothing and fashion industry is known as a wasteful industry. Despite its target, producing fashionable and beautiful items to fulfil the needs of different consumer categories consumes a considerable quantity of raw materials, energy, water, labour force, etc. Every year, natural resources become more limited, hard to find and expensive; in these terms, the producers are forced to find either alternative solutions to replace as much as they can the needed primary raw materials or to try to maximise their use (which means to reduce the quantity of waste) or to use the waste to produce other things. The consumption of raw materials is determined during the development stage of the new model: the designer analyses the sketch of the selected model, then establishes and applies the needed steps to design the model pieces, creates the 3D virtual or supervises the manufacturing process of the physical prototype to verify the design solution, applies changes after analysing the prototype if it is necessary, obtains the production patterns and then he/she is doing the markers to determine the consumption of raw materials for one item and the whole order. Garment models with creases, pleats or folds are the most challenging ones because the designer has to have the ability to understand and to evaluate the shadows or the number of grouped lines of the model into values of distances or angles, to be used to change the element surface for their realisation. In these cases, it is essential to balance what the model requires and the needed amount of raw materials to produce it. This paper proposes some variants of how to resize the surfaces of the elements for designing creases but with an optimal raw material consumption level. The results are based on the analysis of different men jacket models’, with straight silhouette and creases between the hemline and its hem band.
Keywords: optimised consumption, element surface, depth creases, pattern modelling

Citation: Avădanei, M., Curteza, A., Blejan, C., Dulgheriu, I., Loghin, E.C., Ionesi, D., Radu, C.-D., Optimising the amount of base material used for manufacturing garments with creases, during their design stage, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 454–459,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1845

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Article: Comparative analysis of superabsorbent properties of PVP and PAA nanofibres

Authors: BUKET GÜLER, FUNDA CENGİZ ÇALLIOĞLU
Pages 460–466 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.04.1806
Published online: August 2021

Abstract

This study presents the comparative analysis of production, characterization and absorption properties of Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and Polyacrylic acid (PAA) nanofibres. Firstly, optimization studies about polymer (PVP and PAA), superabsorbent additive (waterlock)(WL) and crosslinker agent (sodium persulfate and glutaraldehyde) concentrations were achieved. Then solution properties such as conductivity, surface tension and viscosity were determined. Electrospinning was carried out under the optimum process parameters (voltage, distance between the electrodes, solution feed rate etc.) to obtain superabsorbent nanofibrous surfaces. Surface and fibre morphologies were analysed with Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and thickness of nanoweb and weight in grams of nanofibres were also measured. Lastly, optimized PVP and PAA nanofibres were compared in terms of absorption properties with water and synthetic urine with various times from 5 to 86400 seconds. According to the results, generally fine, smooth and uniform nanofibres were obtained. It was observed that the solution viscosity, conductivity, and average fibre diameter increase with waterlock (WL) and cross-linker additions while surface tension was not change. In addition, PAA nanofibres’ absorption capacity with water and synthetic urine was higher than PVP nanofibres, while PVP nanofibres’ absorption rate is higher. It is possible to say that electrospun nanofibrous surfaces that are ultra-thin, light, porous and with high specific surface area to volume ratio are promising for new superabsorbent materials.
Keywords: polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrylic acid, electrospinning, nanofibres, superabsorbent

Citation: Güler, B., Çallioğlu, F.G., Comparative analysis of superabsorbent properties of PVP and PAA nanofibers, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 4, 460–466,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.04.1806

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