Issue 2 / 2022

Inner covers

Article: Research on the application of collaborative learning in the practice teaching of garment 3D virtual fitting

Authors: LILI CHEN, RUI ZHOU, YAN HONG, LIQIN LOU
Pages: 113–120
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.20212
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

With the integration of information science into the fashion field, both industry and university expect more informatics technology to be utilized in the fashion-related course and teaching of practical exercises. Among this informatics technology, virtual simulation, as an important experiment tool, has become very popular support for fashion students since it is possible to validate design ideas very efficiently and fast. However, because virtual simulation is quite technical, and it is very difficult to gain all the essential skills about the operation of the virtual simulation software within a short time, in the process of virtual simulation exercises, students largely rely on the guidance of teachers, which leads to the negative impact on students’ learning motivation. To optimize the application of virtual simulation in the fashion-related course and teaching of practical exercises, this paper proposes a teaching method based on collaborative learning for fashion virtual simulation exercise teaching. 3D virtual fitting exercises realized by virtual simulation were adopted as the research object to verify its effectiveness. Two groups of students were involved in the experiments. One group was taught traditionally while another group was taught by the proposed collaborative learning. Through a set of learning and teaching process evaluation, experiment results demonstrated that collaborative learning will be beneficial to improving students’ learning interest, efficiency, quality and facilitate the comprehensive capacity of autonomous learning, communication and cooperation, reduce the individual distinction and enhance self-confidence. This paper provides support for the future application of collaborative learning in other fashion related virtual simulation courses and exercises.
Keywords: collaborative learning, virtual simulation, virtual fitting, exercise teaching, control experiment

Citation: Chen, L., Zhou, R., Hong, Y., Lou, L., Research on the application of collaborative learning in the practice teaching of garment 3D virtual fitting, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 113–120,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.20212

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Article: Prediction of the sewing standard time based on process difficulty coefficient

Authors: SHAO YIBING, JI XIAOFEN, ZHENG MENGLIN, SHEN HAINA
Pages 121–127 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202034
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

In garment production, the standard time is a unit widely used for production planning and calculating cost. It is very difficult to prepare manufacturing plans, short term and long-term forecasts, pricing, and other technical and managerial activities in a garment company without true standard time data. Therefore, standard time prediction as the core of standard time quota management is directly related to economic accounting, production schedule control, resource optimization, production cycles shortening, cost control and product quotation. The sewing process can be regarded as the most critical step for the entire garment production, substantially completing the shape of the garment. To achieve fast and accurate sewing process standard time prediction, this paper established the evaluation indicators for sewing process difficulty, obtained the weight of each expert to indicators analysed with analytic hierarchy process, and made group utility function to calculate the difficulty coefficient. The relationship between the sewing processes standard time and the difficulty coefficient was determined to predict the unknown standard time by curve fitting. The effectiveness and usability of this method were verified by examples. The results demonstrated that the proposed method could be a good alternative to existing prediction methods.
Keywords: analytic hierarchy process, group utility function, garment sewing process, process difficulty coefficient, standard time

Citation: Yibing, S., Xiaofen, J., Menglin, Z., Haina, S., Prediction of the sewing standard time based on process difficulty coefficient, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 121–127,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202034

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Article: Effect of regenerated cellulosic fibre content in polyester/regenerated and cotton/regenerated blend yarns on comfort properties of woven fabrics

Authors: ESİN SARIOGLU, HALI İBRAHIM ÇELİK, GİZEM KARAKAN GÜNAYDIN, ELIF GÜLTEKİN
Pages 128–136 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.20219
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

This study investigates some comfort properties of cotton and polyester fabrics blended with varying ratios (%) of regenerated cellulosic fibres including Viloft®, ProModal®, and bamboo fibre. 23 types of woven samples made of Viloft®, ProModal®, and bamboo regenerated cellulosic fibres blended with polyester and cotton at different proportions (100%, 67/33%, 50/50%, 33/67%) besides with 100% cotton and 100% polyester fabrics were produced. Woven samples were subjected to some comfort tests including air permeability (mm/sec), wicking rate (mm/sec), water absorption ratio (%), and water vapour permeability index was also obtained. Statistical test results regarding fibre type, fibre blend components, and blend ratio (%) on fabric comfort properties were evaluated by using the SPSS program. In the content of this experimental work, it was revealed that fibre type, fibre blend components, and blend ratio have a significant effect on some comfort properties such as air permeability, wicking rate, and absorption ratio. However, those parameters did not have any significant effect on the water vapour permeability index at a 95% significance level.
Keywords: regenerated cellulose fibre, Viloft®, ProModal®, bamboo, wicking rate, water vapour permeability index

Citation: Sarioglu, E., Çelik, H.I., Günaydin, G.K., Gültekin, E., Effect of regenerated cellulosic fibre content in polyester/regenerated and cotton/regenerated blend yarns on comfort properties of woven fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 128–136,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.20219


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Article: Comparison of the physical properties of woven and warp knitted bathrobe towel fabrics produced with similar properties

Author: AKAYDIN MUHAMMET
Pages 137–144 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202053
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

In recent years, the use of towel fabrics produced by warp knitting machines in the production of bathrobe fabrics has gradually increased. These fabrics, which can be produced more massively at a lower cost, also show a more flexible character than woven towel fabrics. When working with two pile yarn groups whose raw materials or properties are different from each other, the creation of fabric structures with a completely different face and back is seen among the reasons for choosing these fabrics. In this study, after determining the basic performance characteristics such as weight, tensile strength, tear strength, bursting resistance, shrinkage, and water absorbency of the bathrobe towel fabrics produced with the weaving and warp knitting technique, which has undergone the same finishing processes, their performance and strength properties were compared with each other and the results were evaluated using statistical analysis methods. It has been determined that while woven towel fabrics give higher strength values, warp-knitted towel fabrics show higher stretch. The degree of hydrophilicity degree is increased significantly after sequential finishing processes in both towel fabrics. As a result of the finishing processes, there was a general decrease in the tear strength of the woven bathrobe terry fabric, while there was no systematic decrease in the other strength parameters and the strength properties of the warp-knitted towel fabric. In consequence of the finishing processes in both towel fabric structures, a significant reduction in size was observed in the warp direction.
Keywords: bathrobe towel fabric, weaving, warp knitting, finishing processes

Citation: Muhammet, A., Comparison of the physical properties of woven and warp knitted bathrobe towel fabrics produced with similar properties, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 137–144,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202053

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Article: Seam pucker detection through presser foot displacement monitoring

Authors: DEMBOSKI GORAN, JANKOSKA MAJA, MIGUEL ANGELO CARVALHO
Pages 145–151 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202033
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

The paper investigates the relation between seam pucker, woven fabric formability, and the presser foot displacement during stitch formation. Superimposed seams of class 1 were sewn in warp and weft direction using woven fabrics for tailored garments. The presser foot height was continuously monitored during stitch formation for different sewing machine speeds. The foot displacement during the sewing cycle was correlated with seam pucker. The obtained results showed various patterns of pressure foot displacement regarding the sewing machine speeds. It was found that at a lower machine speed there is no bouncing of the presser foot and the ratio of the height of the presser foot before and after rising and declining movement versus double thickness of the fabric (h/T1), correlates significantly with the seam pucker percentage. The fabrics having a higher h/T1 ratio showed a higher percentage of seam pucker. The obtained results suggest that online monitoring of this parameter can be a useful indication of on-seam pucker appearance, providing reliable means to obtain a quality seam.
Keywords: seam pucker, presser foot displacement, online monitoring, formability, sewing dynamics

Citation: Goran, D., Maja, J., Carvalho, M.A., Seam pucker detection through presser foot displacement monitoring, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 145–151,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202033

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Article: Competitiveness indicators assessment of the textile organizations from Serbia

Authors: VUK S. MILETIĆ, NIKOLA V. ĆURČIĆ, BILJANA VUČKOVSKI GRUJIĆ
Pages 152–158 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202113
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

An assessment of the indicators contributing to the success of the textile organizations doing business in Serbia from the point of view of their specificities in relation to the other industrial sectors is the subject matter of the research study presented in this paper. The original premise says that there are numerous factors that determine the competitiveness of textile organizations, all those factors have a different influence on the results of those organizations’ business activities. The study is aimed at singling out and assessing the factors significant for the adaptation of the existing concept of the business operations undertaken by Serbian textile organizations through continuous changes in the textile and clothes global market. Namely, once the Textile Agreement made between the member states of the World Trade Organization ceased to be in force, trading textile products between the member states became completely liberalized, which led to the competition within the world frameworks becoming much more severe. In order to respond to said changes, there is a need for textile organizations to engage qualified personnel with competencies, knowledge and skills (know-how), who is simultaneously able to respond to all the challenges they are faced within the conditions of accelerated changes in the numerous indicators that determine their competitiveness. The obtained results are indicative of the fact that the following are the key factors for their business success: design functions through the continuous improvement of employees’ knowledge, investment in relationship marketing and the development of domestic brands, together with the procurement of modern technological solutions and equipment. In the subject-matter research study, the following methods were used, namely: hypothetical-deductive, analytical-deductive and comparative, historical and statistical-descriptive, as well as comparative statistics methods (chi2-test, ANOVA).
Keywords: knowledge, technological solution, brand, design function, marketing

Citation: Miletić, V.S., Ćurčić, N.V., Grujić, B.V., Competitiveness indicators assessment of the textile organizations from Serbia, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 152–158,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202113

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Article: Heritage textiles – an integrated approach for assessment and future conservation

Authors: DORINA CAMELIA ILIEȘ, LILIANA INDRIE, TUDOR CACIORA, GRIGORE VASILE HERMAN, ANCA HUNIADI, MIRCEA SANDOR, ADINA ALBU, MONICA COSTEA, CĂLIN MOȘ, SAFAROV BAHODIRHON, EMILIAN TARCAU, EMILIA PANTEA
Pages 159–164 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202040
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

The digital revolution has been present in our lives more and more since the beginning of the third millennium and until now, has affected the way in which cultural heritage is valued, preserved and passed on. In this context, the present study aims to use digital technologies (digital radiography and Reflectance Transformation Imaging) to contribute to assessing the conservation status of a heritage textile fabric; a traditional women’s shirt about 100 years old from Bihor County (ie). The investigations concerned both the fine details that are not visible to the naked eye, regarding the internal structure of the material and external (damaged areas, embroidery with traditional motifs, etc.). The results obtained show high suitability of the methods used for the analysis performed on historical textiles, having major importance in identifying the visual representation of the weave, the fibres and the surface of the fabric, the deterioration and also the current state of preservation and contributing to the identification of optimal restoration-conservation solutions.
Keywords: digital radiography, Reflectance Transformation Imaging, digital techniques, cultural heritage textiles

Citation: Ilieș, D.C., Indrie, L., Caciora, T., Herman, G.V., Huniadi, A., Sandor, M., Albu, A., Costea, M., Moș, C., Bahodirhon, S., Tarcau, E., Pantea, E., Heritage textiles – an integrated approach for assessment and future conservation, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 159–164,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202040

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Article: The effect of wavelet transform for fabric defect classification

Authors: ÇIKLAÇANDIR FATMA GÜNSELİ, UTKU SEMİH, ÖZDEMİR HAKAN
Pages 165-170 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202030
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

An automatic control system during fabric production improves production quality. For this reason, the number of automatic systems developed is increasing day by day. These systems use different methods, different data sets, and different approaches. We investigate the effects of wavelet transform using four different feature sets (wavelet-based Principal Component Analysis, wavelet-based Gray Level Co-occurrence Matrix, Principal Component Analysis and Gray Level Co-occurrence Matrix). The methods of K-Nearest Neighbor (KNN) and Support Vector Machine (SVM) are used as classifiers. Experiments have been carried out for six different fabric defects (fly, dirty warp, tight-loose warp, fibrous weft, rub mark and weft stack) on 57 images. The experimental results performed show that wavelet-based PCA (Principal Component Analysis) and KNN have been optimal methods for achieving the highest success rate. We have achieved a 92.9825% accuracy rate by using them.
Keywords: defect classification, fabric defect, textile, wavelet transform, woven fabric

Citation: Günseli, Ç.F., Semih, U., Hakan, Ö., The effect of wavelet transform for fabric defect classification, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 165–170,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202030

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Article: Total factor productivity and convergence of China’s textile industry

Authors: ZHANG JIANLEI, HE LIN, CHEN YUJIE, CHENG LONGDI
Pages 171–176 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202041
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

The scale of China’s textile industry has grown to be the largest in the world with massive factor input. There is a strong demand China’s textile industry, and as a traditional industry, should improve total factor productivity (TFP) to realize technology-driven and sustainable development. TFP is a commonly used indicator to measure the level of technological progress. But regional textile industry development in China is seriously unbalanced and regional TFP is quite different from each other. It is worthwhile to estimate the textile industry TFP of China and different regions, analyse the changing trend and test for their convergences. This paper firstly uses the nonparametric DEA-Malmquist index method to measure and analyse the TFP and its evolution of China’s textile industry during 2007–2018 at the nation, region and province levels. Then it uses the coefficient of variation to test for σ-convergence of China’s and regional textile industry TFP. It also constructs an absolute β-convergence regression equation and panel data model, respectively to test for absolute β-convergence and conditional β-convergence and determine whether the TFP of each region will also converge to its own steady-state or not. The research results help explore the future development model of China’s textile industry and provide corresponding policy suggestions for the upgrading and sustainable development of the industry.
Keywords: China’s textile industry, convergence, DEA-Malmquist index method, efficiency-driven development, total factor productivity

Citation: Jianlei, Z., Lin, H., Yujie, C., Longdi, C., Total factor productivity and convergence of China’s textile industry, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 171–176,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202041

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Article: Does financial reporting quality affect the investment efficiency of listed textile sector firms in Pakistan? A myth or reality

Authors: MUHAMMAD ZEESHAN, JIABIN HAN, ALAM REHMAN, IRFAN ULLAH, FAKHR E ALAM AFRIDI, SHAMS UR REHMAN
Pages 177–183 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202055
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

The study investigates the relationship between financial reporting quality and investment efficiency in Textile sector firms listed on the Pakistan Stock Exchange, due to the reason of being the highest-ranked sector with a maximum number of listed firms in Pakistan. We use financial reporting quality as an independent variable, investment efficiency as a dependent variable, and the firm’s annual cash, assets tangibility, and return on assets as control variables. We analyse 100 randomly selected firms for the period 2005 to 2019. The study applies various estimators, namely Pooled OLS, Fixed Effects, and Random Effects to identify which model better predicts results. The results demonstrate that firm’s financial reporting quality and ROA have a positive significant effect on the investment efficiency of these selected firms in all three models, but Random Effects Model estimates better coefficients than the counterparts. While the firm’s annual cash predicts a positive insignificant effect on the investment efficiency in the case of all competing models. Asset’s tangibility shows a negative significant effect on the investment efficiency of these firms. The study will help the academicians in their researches, decision-makers, and top management of this particular manufacturing sector in getting insight into framing and formulating their financial strategies.
Keywords: FRQ, investment efficiency, textile sector, random effect, Pakistan

Citation: Zeeshan, M., Han, J., Rehman, A., Ullah, I., Afridi, F.E.A., Rehman, S.U., Does financial reporting quality affect the investment efficiency of listed textile sector firms in Pakistan? A myth or reality, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 177–183,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202055

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Article: Silk weaving business sustainability as a cultural heritage of Indonesia: a case study in Wajo Regency, South Sulawesi

Authors: ANDI ANNISA SULOLIPU, BUDI EKO SOETJIPTO, HARI WAHYONO, AGUNG HARYONO
Pages 184–190 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202056
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

This study was designed to probe into the sustainability of the silk weaving business as a cultural heritage in Wajo Regency, South Sulawesi, Indonesia, which is seen from the aspects of opportunities and challenges. To enact such a purpose, a case study was used in this research. Participants involved were silk entrepreneurs in Wajo Regency, South Sulawesi, Indonesia. Data were garnered through three stages: 1) observation, 2) documentation, and 3) semi-structured in-depth interviews. Findings suggest that the silk weaving business as a cultural heritage continues to grow and gives an identity to Wajo Regency as a city of silk and a centre for selling silk fabrics in Indonesia. This is evidenced by a large number of silk weaving business units and the large number of workers absorbed, especially women, who can contribute to regional income and economic growth. This finding is influenced by several factors that provide opportunities, such as family economic education which continues to be passed down from generation to generation, capital assistance from banks, gender equality for weavers, and the adaptability of silk entrepreneurs. However, there are challenges in the sustainability of the silk weaving business in terms of limited local raw materials and the use of the Gedogan traditional loom which is rarely used even though it is a typical loom in silk weaving and is a cultural heritage in weaving. Based on the findings, the study suggests adaptive skills training for silk entrepreneurs and making silk weaving as an educational tourbe.
Keywords: Gedogan traditional loom, Alat Tenun Bukan Mesin (ATBM), adaptability, gender, informal economy education

Citation: Sulolipu, A.A., Soetjipto, B.E., Wahyono, H., Haryono, A., Silk weaving business sustainability as a cultural heritage of Indonesia: a case study in Wajo Regency, South Sulawesi, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 184–190,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202056

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Article: Research on the acceptability of the dual model of education in the textile industry sector

Author: GABRIJELA GRUJIC
Pages 191–195 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202114
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

For the purpose of the research on the acceptability of the dual model of education in higher education, 30 companies from the textile sector were selected. The obtained results show that the respondents accept the dual model of education in a large percentage, ranging from 80% to 83.33%. From the answers related to decision-making on accepting the dual model of education in their companies, the respondents showed a positive attitude in the percentage ranging from 56.66% to 73.33%. A lower percentage of eligibility indicates that respondents will not make an immediate decision without additional information. From the answers related to the large administration and the number of documents for the inclusion of the company, the respondents believe that this administration is unnecessary. Only 13.33% of respondents believe that the existing administrative conditions are not an obstacle to companies’ acceptance of dual education.
Keywords: dual model of education in higher education, textile industry, Government of the Republic of Serbia

Citation: Grujic, G., Research on the acceptability of the dual model of education in the textile industry sector, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 191–195,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202114

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Article: Influence of sewing parameters on the energy consumption of the sewing machines

Authors: SERKAN BOZ, MUSTAFA ENGİN, SAVVAS VASSILIADIS, M. ÇETİN ERDOĞAN
Pages 196–203 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202046
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

The clothing industry due to the rapid changes in the technological and economical fields faces continuously new challenges like efficient machine and process settings’ changes for individual production orders for smaller quantities; increased product and materials variety and increased competitiveness through higher quality and lower production costs.
Energy consumption is very important because, besides the varying costs (material, labour), the costs of energy are one of the key factors affecting the manufacturing costs, which is the main factor affecting the final price of the clothing products. It is well known that energy costs constitute 10–15 % of the overall manufacturing costs in the apparel industry. In the present study, the correlation of the various sewing parameters with the energy consumption and thus the energy costs are examined. In order to obtain this goal, a data collection system has been designed in order to meet the needs and the nature of the measurements. Sewing experiments were carried out on different samples using various sewing parameters and the consumption of the electrical power was monitored. Additionally, the measurements obtained during the experiments were sent and stored in a computer for the processing of the signals and their statistical evaluation.
Keywords: sewing parameters, energy consumption, efficiency, performance, sewing machines

Citation: Boz, S., Engin, M., Vassiliadis, S., Erdoğan, M.Ç., Influence of sewing parameters on the energy consumption of the sewing machines, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 196–203,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202046

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Article: Development of a hat style recognition system based on image processing and machine learning

Authors: FNAG YU, CHENGXIA LIU, YAN HONG
Pages 204–212 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202050
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the recognition mechanism of hat styles and develop a corresponding hat style recognition system (HSRS). An image processing and machine learning integrated method (IPML) is proposed and validated for automatic hat style recognition. First, 4 kinds of hat styles (borderless knitted hats, berets, top hats and peaked hats) with 800 pictures are employed as research objects and divided into two categories: the first 400 serve as the training set and the rest 400 as the test set. Then, IPML is proposed to obtain a hat silhouette. Curvature feature points are extracted from hat silhouette and further used as parameters for the automatic hat style recognition. In the real recognition process, a new case is compared with the pre-set 400 samples in the training set regarding these characteristic parameters. A Hausforff distance-based similarity measurement tool is used in the comparison process. The experimental results show that when the curvature feature points are 70 and the output results are 3, the average recognition accuracy rate can reach 90.5%, of which the value of borderless knitted hats is the highest with 98% and followed by the top hats with 95%. This work can be used for hat recommendation systems. It can also be extended to support the area of personalized industrial product design such as fashion design, furniture design and advertisement design.
Keywords: image processing, hat style, Hausdorff distance, curvature characteristic, automatic recognition

Citation: Yu, F., Liu, C., Hong, Y., Development of a hat style recognition system based on image processing and machine learning, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 204–212,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202050

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Article: Diabetic foot ulcers, a comprehensive approach – Review

Authors: ANDREEA GROSU-BULARDA, RĂZVAN NICOLAE TEODOREANU, CARMEN MIHAI, FLAVIA FRANCESCA LIȚĂ, FLORIN-VLAD HODEA, IOAN LASCĂR, ALEXANDRU CHIOTOROIU
Pages 213-221, 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.073.02.202215
Published online: April 2022

Abstract

Diabetic foot ulcer represents a very severe complication of diabetes mellitus, often requiring foot amputation, leading to morbidity and higher mortality rates. Around one in six diabetic patients develops foot ulcers over their lifetime. Promoting a series of preventive measures including systemic control of diabetes and other comorbidities along with local foot care proved to be a valuable strategy. In addition to rigorous, active prevention, multidisciplinary therapeutic management of diabetic ulcers includes offloading techniques, ulcer debridement, advanced dressings and diabetic foot surgical treatment. In this article, we analyze each component of this sequential treatment plan, with emphasis on current indications and resources, having as main goals decreasing complication rate and morbidity, improving the quality of life and life expectancy of diabetic patients.
Keywords: diabetic foot ulcers, treatment, dressings, surgery, prevention

Citation: Grosu-Bularda, A., Teodoreanu, R.N., Mihai, C., Liță, F.F., Hodea, F.-V., Lascăr, I., Chiotoroiu, A., Diabetic foot ulcers, a comprehensive approach – Review, In: Industria Textila, 2022, 73, 2, 213-221,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.02.202215

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