Issue 2 / 2018 
Article: Effects of sizing and yarn structural properties on the physical properties of combed and carded cotton ring yarns
Author: HAKAN ÖZDEMIR
Pages: 81-86
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1329
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
Warp yarns, prepared as warp beam, are exposed to various forces at weaving loom. Warp yarns are bended on the
back rest, subjected to friction from drop wires and healds. They are also exposed to friction and impact at reed and
thereby abraded. Yarns are sized in order to increase their resistance to these effects. Sizing agents ensure that warp
yarns can be weaved with sizing process. On the other hand, yarn count and yarn type (combed or carded yarn) are the
significant yarn structural properties that determine and so affect the physical properties of yarn. The main reason and
objective this study is to investigate the effects of yarn structural parameters (yarn count and yarn type) and sizing on
the physical properties (breaking strength, elongation at break, hairiness, friction coefficient) of 100% cotton carded and
combed ring yarns, sized with four different sizing agents, which were not studied in the references. It is observed that
sizing process cause to decrease in the hairiness up to 99% and in friction coefficients of combed and carded yarns
whereas to increase in the breaking strengths of combed and carded yarns. And also, the combed yarns had better
tensile and frictional properties than carded yarns.
Keywords: carded yarn, combed yarn, ring yarn, sizing, breaking strength, elongation at break, hairiness, coefficient of friction
Citation: Özdemir, K., Effects of sizing and yarn structural properties on the physical properties of combed and carded cotton ring yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 81–86, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1329
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Article: The influence of air-jet and vortex yarn on functionality of woven fabric
Authors: ŠAJN GORJANC DUNJA, GLAŽAR DOMINIKA
Pages 87-95
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1412
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
The basic intention of the research is to analyse the influence of air-jet and vortex yarn structure on woven fabric
functionality. With the research, the air-jet and vortex yarn from the mixture of 65 % PES / 35 % CO fibres and fineness
20 tex were analysed. For comparison, the conventional ring-spun yarn was chosen from the mixture of 65 % PES/35 %
CO fibres and fineness 20 tex.
The woven fabric in the twill weave T1/3Z was produced from the air-jet, vortex and ring-spun yarn in the weft direction
with two different weft densities (20 and 30 yarns per cm).
In the first part of the study, the structure, physical and mechanical properties of the air-jet, vortex and ring-spun yarn
were analysed, while in the second part of the research, the influence of used yarn in the weft direction on the
functionality of woven fabric was studied.
The research was focused mainly on physical, mechanical properties as well as permeability properties of woven fabric
with air-jet and vortex yarn in the weft direction in comparison with woven fabric with conventional ring-spun yarn in the
weft direction, with equal chemical composition and fineness of yarn.
The research results was shown which yarn structure in the weft direction of woven fabric (air-jet or vortex) the most
closely approximates the characteristics of the ring-spun yarn, which has because of ring-traveller-spindle mechanism
ideal and the most even structure, mainly because of the insertion of the true twist.
Keywords: air-jet yarn, vortex yarn, ring-spun yarn, woven fabric, mechanical and permeability properties
Citation: Dunja, S.G., Dominika, G., The influence of air-jet and vortex yarn on functionality of woven fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 87–95, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1412
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Article: Approach to evaluation of car seats fabrics performance
Authors: VIERA GLOMBIKOVA, PETRA KOMARKOVA, ANTONIN HAVELKA, MARCELA KOLINOVA
Pages 96-103
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1334
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
This paper deals with investigating performance of car seat fabrics in terms of their compression and recovery properties
and physiological comfort of sitting. Polyurethane foam, nonwoven and 3D knitted spacer fabrics are commonly
used as padding (in middle layer) in car seats cover. The current work presents an alternative approach to evaluate
effectivity of car seat fabrics, namely their compression behaviour, variation in thickness under dynamic loading,
thermal properties, water vapour resistance and air permeability. The above mentioned properties belong to basic
requirements in car seat manufacturing. Micro tomography system was used to obtain detailed information about change
in internal structure of fabric samples, before and after compression test.
Keywords: car seats, compression, recovery, thermal resistance, micro tomography
Citation: Glombikova, V., Komarkova, P., Havelka, A., Kolinova, M., Approach to evaluation of car seats fabrics performance, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 96–103, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1334
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Article: The use of D-optimal design in optimization of wool dyeing with Juglansregia bark
Authors: AMINODDIN HAJI, SAYYED SADRODDIN QAVAMNIA, MAJID NASIRIBOROUMAND
Pages 104-110
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1509
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
In this study, wool fibers were dyed using the Juglansregiabark as a new source of natural dye. Alum was used as
mordant. Response surface methodology and D-optimal design were employed to study and optimize the dyeing
procedure with the aim of obtaining the maximum color value after dyeing with aqueous extract of Juglansregiabark. The
results showed that the color value of the dyed fibers was increased by increasing the dyeing time and temperature and
decreased by increasing the dyebath pH value. There was an optimum value of around 6 % owf for mordant
concentration. The optimal condition for obtaining the highest color value was as follows: dyebath pH: 6, alum
concentration: 6.24 % owf, dyeing temperature: 90 ºC, and dyeing time: 90 min.
Keywords: mordant, natural dye, wool, optimization, RSM
Citation: Haji, A., Qavamnia, S.S., Nasiriboroumand, M., The use of D-optimal design in optimization of wool dyeing with Juglansregia bark, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 104–110, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1509
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Article: A body measurements and sensory evaluation-based classification of lower body shapes for developing customized pants design
Authors: MIN DONG, YAN HONG, JUNJIE ZHANG, KAIXUAN LIU, MELISSA WAGNER, HUIYU JIANG
Pages 111-117
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1381
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
In this paper, a fuzzy rough set-based classification method is applied to identify lower body shapes of a target
population for developing customized pants design. First, a group of designers is selected for identifying the key
dimensions and lower body shape indices related to women pants design. On the basis of this, we propose a
classification algorithm, which uses triangle and trapezoid fuzzy membership functions for transforming the indices of
the relevant data into five fuzzy sets, regarded as linguistic descriptors. An importance degree and a similarity degree
are defined to solve conflicts of different indices. Next, we randomly select 125 human bodies in the target population
and measure the key dimension values by means of a 3D body scanning system and then compute important body
shape indices. Then, we set up a number of decision tables and respectively divide the shapes of various lower body
positions into five classes by using the rough set method. The classification results have been validated by using a
sensory evaluation procedure. The obtained results will effectively help to set up new garment sizes adapted to a target
population and realize the concept of mass customization by developing personalized or customized garment styles.
Keywords: pants design; lower body shape classification; fuzzy techniques; rough sets; importance degree; similarity degree; sensory evaluation
Citation: Dong, M., Hong, Y., Zhang, J., Liu, K., Wagner, M., Jiang, H., A body measurements and sensory evaluation-based classification of lower body shapes for developing customized pants design, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 111–117, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1381
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Article: Effect of elastane linear density on compression pressure of V-shaped compression socks
Authors: SIDDIQUE HAFIZ FAISAL, MAZARI ADNAN, HAVELKA ANTONIN, HUSSAIN TANVEER
Pages 118-127
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1433
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of elastane material linear densities on lateral compression values (ankle
and calf) in newly designed shape (V-shape) compression socks. For this purpose, three types of yarns: main yarn (MY),
plating yarn (PY) and inlaid yarn (IY) were used. Each yarn contains elastane material as core with varying linear
densities. Firstly, Machine adjustments were optimized to achieve special V-shaped compression socks according to fix
leg size. All the yarns were installed simultaneously and evaluated for their impact on compression pressure value at
different segments of leg. Total eighteen socks samples were developed and quantified for pressure exertion using MST
MKIV, Salzmann pressure monitoring device. All samples were analyzed using ANOVA in MINTAB 16 software.
Consequently, only two socks samples finalized acquiring pressure exertion values of 21 mmHg and 23 mmHg with
graduation percentage of 76% and 74% simultaneously.
Keywords: compression, linear density, elastane, V-shaped socks, core spun yarn, air covered yarn, double covered
yarn
Citation: Faisal, S.H., Adnan, M., Antonin, H., Tanveer, H., Effect of elastane linear density on compression pressure of V-shaped compression socks, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 118–127, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1433
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Article: Suppression mechanism study of attached apex drogue on undesirable inflation phenomena
Authors: JUN LI, HAN CHENG, JING YANG
Pages 128-132
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1414
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
At present, the studies of suppression effect of attached apex drogue on undesirable inflation were seriously dependent
on experiments. The experiments were difficult to reveal the suppression mechanism due to the difficulty of data
collection. In this paper, a FSI (Fluid Structure Interaction) model based on explicit finite element method was proposed
to study the suppression mechanism. The graphical deformation method was used to realize the movement of
computational domain. At the same time, the velocity conditions were applied on the boundaries of computational
domain, which was used to simulate the external wind field. The coupling between the fluid and structure described by
Lagrangian meshes was realized by contact algorithm. Finally, an extra-large parachute was taken as the research
object, and the suppression mechanism of attached apex drogue was analyzed according to the numerical results. The
effect of different attached apex drogues with different resistance characteristics also was analyzed by the above FSI
model. The analysis model and method proposed in this paper could provide the design basis of extra-large parachute.
Keywords: engineered fabrics, extra-large parachute, explicit finite element, numerical method, textiles application
Citation: Li, J., Cheng, H., Yang, J., Suppression mechanism study of attached apex drogue on undesirableinflation phenomena, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 128–132, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1414
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Article: Alloplastic parieto-synthesis complications in abdominal wall reconstructive surgery – our clinical experience
Authors: DANA VASILESCU, SABINA IONITA, VICTOR GRAMA, ADRIAN PELINARU, ALEXANDRU CHIOTOROIU
Pages 133-139
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1451
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
Currently, it is believed that the treatment of eventrations is not possible without the use of biomaterials. Although they
are used for several decades, being continuously studied and improved, now we are in a stalemate. Chemically, some
materials appear to be perfectly biocompatible but the physical and structural characteristics of different types of
prostheses are associated with various complications, including the risk of foreign body reactions, infection, seroma
formation, intestinal obstruction, extrusion of the implants, malposition, malrotation, erosion of cavitary viscera,
appearance of digestive fistulas, failure of reconstruction.
In an attempt to minimize these risks as much as possible, it is necessary to know the mechanisms of occurrence of
potential complications.
Keywords: eventrations, biomaterials, biocompatibility, prostheses
Citation: Vasilescu, D., Ionita, S., Grama, V., Pelinaru, A., Chiotoroiu, A.L., Alloplastic parieto-synthesis complications in abdominal wall reconstructive surgery – our clinical experience, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 133–139, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1451
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Article: Throughput time analysis in apparel manufacturing
Authors: GORAN DEMBOSKI, MAJA JANKOSKA
Pages 140-145
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1450
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
Throughput time is investigated for men’s shirt assembly line in garment manufacturing company. The comparison is
made between theoretically calculated and actual throughput time. The theoretical throughput time is calculated via
starting lag times, lag times and bundle times between succeeding pairs of operations of the product flow process grid
critical path. The influence of bundle size on throughput time and work in process is evaluated. The comparison of
predicted and actual throughput time shows that predicted time was 10% lesser than experimental one. The evaluation
of bundle size effect on throughout time and work in process shows that the bundle size can have great influence on
company flexibility and competiveness.
Keywords: inventory in process time, bundle size, work in process, assembly line
Citation: Demboski, G., Jankoska, M., Throughput time analysis in apparel manufacturing, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 140–145, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1450
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Article: Structure with controllable permeability for vertical aerodynamic stabilizers-decelerators
Authors: CARMEN MIHAI, ALEXANDRA ENE, CRISTIAN JIPA, CARMEN DENIS GHIMUS
Pages 146-151
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1530
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
The scientific and technical issues related to the high-tech materials applications in the recovery systems ensemble are
very numerous and varied. The parachute ensemble represents the most important part of a recovery system, and
therefore this fact requires a thorough knowledge of the performance characteristics as they are the decision-making
elements in the selection and design of this extremely complex system. In this context, the paper presents the main
achievements in the field of designing and realizing the structures for the stabilization-deceleration of the combat
divisions’ ammunition.
Keywords: stabilization-deceleration system, ammunition, structural analysis, structure parameters calculation
Citation: Mihai, C., Ene, A., Jipa, C., Ghimbus, C.D., Structure with controllable permeability for vertical aerodynamic stabilizers-decelerators, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 146–151, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1530
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Article: A new and sustainable service to slow fashion brands
Authors: J. P. BERNARDES, A. MARQUES, F. FERREIRA, M. NOGUEIRA
Pages 150-157
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1528
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
This paper explores the creation of an innovative clothing rental service, that is inspired by the ‘slow fashion movement’,
and that focuses on the question: “are people willing to use second-hand clothing and/or leased when travelling?”. This
is a rental service for the day-to-day and also business clothing. The creation and development of this service was
possible through the use of a design thinking methodology: the 9 steps framework by Kees Dorst. Regarding its
validation, it was achieved with a questionnaire with 430 responses. The paper culminates with the positive response to
the problem.
Keywords: sustainability, design thinking, slow fashion movement, clothing rental, travel
Citation: Bernardes, J.P., Marques A., Ferreira, F., Nogueira, M., A new and sustainable service to slow fashion brands, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 152–157, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1528
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Article: The concept of fashion marketing as an instrument of reducing tensions between designers and marketing experts in fashion companies
Authors: MILAN M. GAŠOVIĆ, DJURDJICA DJ. VUKAJLOVIĆ, NIKOLA V. ĆURČIĆ
Pages 158-165
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.02.1409
Published online: April 2018
Abstract
Tensions between designers and marketing experts in fashion companies are created largely because the design values
are opposing to the values of marketing. Among other things, a better understanding of the concept of fashion marketing,
which is based on equal respect for design, customers and profits of fashion companies, contributes to the reduction of
misunderstanding. It has been confirmed by research carried out in the countries of the Western Balkan.
Keywords: tensions, designers, marketing experts, fashion marketing concepts
Citation: Gašović, M.M., Vukajlović, D.DJ., Ćurčić, N.V., The concept of fashion marketing as an instrument of reducing tensions between designers and marketing experts in fashion companies, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 2, 158–165, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.02.1409
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