Authors: DARJAN KARABASEVIC, PAVLE RADANOV, DRAGISA STANUJKIC, GABRIJELA POPOVIC, BRATISLAV PREDIC
Pages: 3-10
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1841
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
The widespread use of information and communication technologies in all fields has a direct impact on the way the world
is viewed. In today’s competitive international business environment, companies are increasingly investing in the search
for new ideas and approaches in production. The use of information and communication technologies (ICT) is
increasingly gaining in importance, especially in the situation of a dynamic market and increasingly demanding
consumers. Today’s business of contemporary organizations is not conceivable without the support of modern ICT
systems. Therefore ICT has a great influence on modern society because the ways in which information and data are
exchanged are higher than ever. Green information and communication technologies as one area that is new and in
development tend to establish a balance between these technologies and the environment. Adoption of green
information and communication technologies is not an easy task and is often related to certain limitations. Therefore, the
aim of the paper is a strategic evaluation of green ICT and their implementation in the textile industry by using
newly-developed bipolar fuzzy MULTIMOORA method. Effectiveness and efficacy of the proposed approach is
demonstrated in the conducted illustrative case study.
Keywords: Green ICT, ICT, textile industry, MCDM, bipolar fuzzy MULTIMOORA method
Citation: Karabasevic, D., Radanov, P., Stanujkic, D., Popovic, P., Predic, B., Going green: strategic evaluation of green ICT adoption in the textile industry by using bipolar fuzzy MULTIMOORA method, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 3–10, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1841
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Authors: MEHMET KÜÇÜK, MARCUS O. WEBER, CLAUS BÜHS, MARKUS MUSCHKIET
Pages 11-18
DOI: 10.35530/072.01.1681
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
The main goal of this research is to find out what are the apparel industry activities in the face of green perspective
(environment-friendly perspective) in Germany and Turkey. The green perspective is an emerging idea and also has
importance for the humanity and the universe. However it is obvious that the green perspective is very broad, it was
decided to make this research in the field of supply chain management and the place of logistics in supply chain under
the title of green perspective. In this context, a survey, face-to-face interviews were made with professionals in Germany
and Turkey. These professionals were the managers who are taking part in the supply chain. In the conclusion part,
German and Turkish companies’ activities in the face of green perspective under the title of logistics were compared and
evaluated.
Keywords: green logistics, comparative analysis, Germany and Turkey, apparel industry
Citation: Küçük, M., Weber, M.O., Bühs, C., Muschkiet, M., A comparative analysis of green logistic activities in German and Turkish textile enterprises, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 11–18, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1681
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Authors: FANGLI CHEN, XIANG JI, JIANG CHU, PINGHUA XU, LAILI WANG
Pages 19-29
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1797
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
A significant amount of research has been published on the environmental impact assessment of cotton textiles using
the life cycle assessment (LCA) method. This review summarized and analysed the findings of these publications, and
presented valuable insights for identifying the hotspots that have considerable potential for reducing the environmental
burden of cotton textiles. The relevant papers were selected according to two criteria: life cycle assessment of cotton
textiles or footprint of cotton textiles. Subsequently, key features were screened and critically analysed: functional unit,
system boundary, data sources and geographic location, and impact assessment methods and impact categories. We
found that there is an emerging market demand to transform conventional cotton to organic cotton. From the global
perspective, a spatially explicit LCA of cotton textiles should be conducted. In addition, a comprehensive and holistic life
cycle impact assessment containing more impact categories that are appropriate to cotton textiles is required. LCA is a
well-justified approach among practitioners and researchers and has been widely applied to the topic of cotton textiles.
This methodology should be studied and developed further to more precisely evaluate the environmental impacts of
cotton textiles.
Keywords: cotton, environmental impacts, footprint, life cycle assessment, review, textiles
Citation: Chen, F., Ji, X., Chu, J., Xu, P., Wang, L., A review: life cycle assessment of cotton textiles, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 19–29, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1797
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Authors: YESIM BANU BUYUKAKINCI, RECEP KARADAG, EMİNE TORGAN GUZEL
Pages 30-38
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1755
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
In this work, organic cotton fabrics were dyed using barberry (Berberis vulgaris L.), dyer’s oak (Quercus infectoria
Olivier) and dyer’s oak + barberry (Quercus infectoria Olivier + Berberis vulgaris L.) by microwave irradiation and
conventional dyeing methods. They were used in equal percentages. The dyed fabrics were analyzed by different
analytical and technical methods. Colouring compounds were analyzed in the dyed fabrics, dye extractions (before
dyeing bath and after dyeing bath) by High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Diode Array Detector
(HPLC-DAD). Identified coloring compounds based on the dyestuff analysis were berberine, berberine derivative,
phenolic acid, ellagic acid, ellegic acid derivatives, gallic acid and gallic acid derivative.
Colour characteristics of all the dyed fabrics were measured by CIEL*a*b* spectrophotometer and pH values were
determined by surface-pH meter. Scanning Electron Microscopy equipped with Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectrometer
(SEM-EDX) was used for imaging and elemental analysis of the surfaces of the dyed organic cotton fabrics.
The colouristic and colour fastness properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated and compared with each other. No
damage was observed in the fabrics dyed by the microwave and conventional dyeing methods. Almost the same colour
yields were obtained in both dyeings using different processing times.
According to the analyses and test results, microwave irradiation method is very eligible compared to conventional
dyeing methods, considering coloristic properties of dyed fabrics, time saving and the cost effectiveness wise.
Keywords: microwave dyeing, organic cotton, natural dye, HPLC-DAD, SEM-EDX, fastness
Citation: Buyukakinci, Y.B., Karadag, R., Guzel, E.T., Organic cotton fabric dyed with dyer's oak and barberry dye by microwave irradiation and conventional methods, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 30–38, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1755
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Authors: MUHAMMAD ZAHID NAEEM, SUMERA ARSHAD, RAMONA BIRAU, CRISTI SPULBAR, ABDULLAH EJAZ, MUHAMMAD AZMAT HAYAT, JENICA POPESCU
Pages 39-49
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1784
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
This study has attempted to investigate the consequences of CO2 emissions on infants’ health in Pakistan over the
period of 1975 to 2013. Several economic factors have been employed in our analysis and the estimates show
insignificant impact of CO2 emissions in affecting children mortality. Increasing health facilities lowers children mortality
over a short period were also observed but the relationship inversed in the long-run. In short-run, urbanization appeared
as a decreasing factor to children mortality. While income inequality remains inversely related with children mortality.
Both poverty and fertility are found enhancing factors to children deaths. The poor sector of the economy seemed to
observe higher children mortality due to inadequate health facilities and low standards of living. Overall, we have
observed greater impact of economic factors in explaining children mortality than CO2 emissions in case of Pakistan.
These issues have a significant impact on the representative industries in Pakistan, such as the cotton textile and
traditional clothing industry (apparel manufacturing).
Keywords: CO2 emissions, economic factors, environment, infants health, Pakistan, children mortality, textile industry
Citation: Naeem, M.Z., Arshad, S., Birau, R., Spulbar, C., Ejaz, A., Hayat, M.A., Popescu, J., Investigating the impact of CO2 emission and economic factors on infants health: a case study for Pakistan, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 39–49, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1784
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Authors: DORINA CAMELIA ILIEȘ, MIHAELA CRISTINA LITE, LILIANA INDRIE, FLORIN MARCU, CĂLIN MOȘ, MĂDĂLINA ROPA, BOGDAN STURZU, MONICA COSTEA, ADINA VICTORIA ALBU, PAUL SZABO-ALEXI, ALPHONSE SAMBOU, GRIGORE VASILE HERMAN, TUDOR CACIORA, NICOLAIE HODOR
Pages 50-54
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1807
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
The heritage woven objects could be analyzed for defects hidden to the naked eye using non-invasive and
non-destructive ultrasonography techniques. Ultrasonography is able to offer information about altered areas, such as
gasps, interruptions, discontinuances, narrowed areas, fiber breaks, different densities of the material, defects caused
by natural or anthropic factors: improper storage and exposure conditions, the presence of microorganisms and traces
of their activity, mechanical causes etc. By recycling of the cotton fibers from other decrepit materials, which are not
directly usable, the recondition and rendition of the national and world cultural heritage of these refurbished objects
would be accomplished. The impact on the environment is diminished compared to the case when new cotton fibers are
created.
Keywords: cultural heritage, ultrasonography, recycling, circular economy
Citation: Ilieș, D.C., Lite, M.-C., Indrie, L., Marcu, F., Moș, C., Ropa, M., Sturzu, B., Costea, M., Albu, A.V., Szabo-Alexi, P., Sambou, A., Herman, G.V., Caciora, T., Hodor, N., Research for the conservation of cultural heritage in the context of the circular economy, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 50–54, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1807
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Authors: JIANG CHU, LIRONG SUN, FANGLI CHEN, XIANG JI, ZEJUN TIAN, LAILI WANG
Pages 55-61
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1787
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
The textile industry contributes a lot to China’s economy in history and present. However, it also causes serious impacts
on the environment. Environmental prices methodology was proposed to convert various environmental impacts into
corresponding social marginal value and it can be applied for the evaluation of the environmental loads. This study
applied environmental prices methodology to calculate the social marginal value of the caused environmental impacts
in China’s textile industry during the period from 2001 to 2015. The results showed that the minimum value of caused
environmental impacts was €9.556 billion and the maximum value was €16.599 billion. Among the three sub-industries
of China’s textile industry, Manufacture of Textile had the highest value, followed by Manufacture of Chemical Fibers,
and Manufacture of Textile, Wearing Apparel and Accessories. The value of greenhouse effect caused by CO2 emission
was the largest. The value of ammonia nitrogen in wastewater was the largest and followed by the values of COD, As,
cyanide, Hg, Pb and Cd. An in-depth analysis of the results indicated that the social marginal value of the textile industry
closely related to the scale of the industry, the international market and government policies.
Keywords: environmental price, social marginal value, environmental load, textile industry, impact pathway model
Citation: Chu, J., Sun, L., Chen, F., Ji, X., Tian, Z., Wang, L., Assessing the environmental profit and loss of the textile industry: A case study in China, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 55–61, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1787
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Authors: EUGEN CONSTANTIN AILENEI, MARIA CARMEN LOGHIN, MARIANA ICHIM, ALIN HOBLEA
Pages 62-67
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1837
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
In this study, polypropylene-based thermoformed composites have been obtained using polyester woven fabric scraps
as reinforcement. Four types of matrix have been used for the experiments: biaxially oriented polypropylene bag waste
(BOPP), polypropylene nonwoven waste (TNT), 50/50 BOPP/TNT waste and virgin polypropylene fibres (PP). The
percentage of matrix has been varied at four levels: 20%, 30%, 40%, and 50%. The effect of matrix/reinforcement mass
ratio and matrix type on the mechanical properties of composite materials has been studied. Since the composite
materials are intended to replace the oriented strand boards (OSB) in construction and furniture applications,
comparison with the characteristics of 8 mm OSB has been made.
Keywords: composite materials, polypropylene waste matrix, polyester fabric scraps reinforcement, recycling
Citation: Ailenei, E.C., Loghin, M.C., Ichim, M., Hoblea, A., New composite materials using polyester woven fabric scraps as reinforcement and thermoplastic matrix, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 62–67, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1837
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Authors: XIANG JI, WEIRAN QIAN, ZEJUN TIAN, YI LI, LAILI WANG
Pages 68-73
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1773
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
The chemical pollutants discharged in the production processes of textile products cause severe impact on the
environment. The chemical footprint (ChF) methodology provides a new way to quantify the toxicity impacts caused by
chemical pollutants. ChF does well in identifying priority chemical pollutants and helping enterprises to select greener
chemicals to reduce the environment impacts. In this study, the ChF of woollen yarn were assessed with the data that
collected from the production processes. The results showed that the ChF of dyeing process (4.10E+06 l) accounted for
the largest proportion, because a large number of auxiliaries were used in the dyeing process to prevent uneven dyeing
and colour difference, followed by scouring (7.79E+05 l) and finishing (8.11E+03 l). Among all the discharged chemical
pollutants, polyoxyethylene nonyl phenyl ether (1.37E+06 l) caused the most ecotoxicity severe impact on the
environment due to its high bioaccumulation and high toxicity to ecosystem, followed by sulfuric acid (1.03E+06 l).
Sodium chloride and hydrogen peroxide were the two substances that caused the least environmental load. The overall
uncertainty caused by toxicity prediction data accounting for 20.2% of the total ChF, and the uncertainty of the scouring
process was the most. The results are referable for wool textiles producers to enhance the textile chemicals
management.
Keywords: chemical footprint, assessment of mean impact, dyeing and finishing, environment load, woollen yarn
Citation: Ji, X., Qian, W., Tian, Z., Li, Y., Wang, L., Quantification and evaluation of chemical footprint of woollen textiles, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 68–73, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1773
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Authors: SMITHA NAYAK, VARUN S.G. KUMAR, SUHAN MENDON, RAMONA BIRAU, CRISTI SPULBAR, MANDELA SRIKANTH, IULIUS DANIEL DOAGĂ
Pages 74-80
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1791
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
Government expenditure is linked to the economic growth and is the driving force of the every country. In the post
liberalization era, India has been exposed to the dynamics of the world economy due to which India has witnessed a
significant impact of Government spending on its economic growth. The objective of this paper is to investigate the
effects of the Central Government spending on the growth of the Indian economy over a period, from 2006 to 2016. The
online data disclosures of the various ministries have been the major source of secondary data. Co-integration analysis
is adopted to evaluate the effect of individual sectorial spending on the economic growth and gross domestic product.
The economic spending is classified into 5 sectors namely: General Services, Social Services, Economic Services,
Grants in Aid & Contribution and Public debt & Loans for analysis, as disclosed by the sources. The analysis gives us
an idea of the various sectors which have a positive impact and the sectors which have a negative impact. The results
would play an instrumental role in exploring the sectors in which the government should invest more, thereby
contributing to an enhancement in the country’s growth.
Keywords: government expenditure, economic growth, circular economy, Gross Domestic Product (GDP), integration analysis, emerging economies
Citation: Nayak, S., Kumar, V.S.G., Mendon, S., Birau, R., Spulbar, C., Srikanth, M., Doagă, I.D., The effects of government expenditure on sustainable economic growth in India: assessment of the circular economy, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 74–80, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1791
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Author: DANIELA STAICU
Pages 81-88
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.202031
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
The limits of the present take-make-waste business model are extremely visible when examining the textile and clothing
industry. The concept of circular economy gained traction, which has led to the creation of policy actions throughout the
life cycle of a product and at disposal. Transitioning from linear to circular economy business models requires significant
value-chain changes in both production and consumption patterns. Existing circular business models are paving the way
towards a paradigm shift. However, the literature has not retained much empirical evidence about these sustainabilityoriented
innovators which are invisible and work in anonymity. This study provides a simple, yet rich and unique
overview of the characteristics of circular economy business models in the textile and clothing sector in Romania,
identified through qualitative analysis performed on the entire population of sustainability-oriented innovators identified
in Romania in the textile and clothing sector in a previous study done by the same author. The data was collected using
a structured questionnaire with 37 questions connected to four areas: human resources, legal and fiscal framework,
customers and communication, and materials, tools or technology employed. With a 100% response rate, the real
significance of this paper is that it may have discovered the real contribution of these agents of change in the circular
economy, functional circular business models which have never been studied before as a population.
Keywords: circular economy, innovation, social enterprise, sustainability-oriented innovators, sustainable entrepreneurship, textile and clothing sector
Citation: Staicu, D., Characteristics of textile and clothing sector social entrepreneurs in the transition to the circular economy, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 81–88, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.202031
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Authors: MANUELA AVADANEI, SABINA OLARU, IRINA IONESCU, ADELA FLOREA, ANTONELA CURTEZA, EMIL-CONSTANTIN LOGHIN, IONUT DULGHERIU, DORU CEZAR RADU
Pages 89-96
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1563B
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
The textile and clothing industry uses many resources. It causes a lot of environmental problems: water pollution,
consuming a massive amount of raw materials, energy, chemicals, etc. The garments are produced to be worn and
cleaned several times, and their lifespan is considerably reduced. Over 60% of what the consumer buys, becomes
unuseful (either the consumer forgot what he/she has, or the product is not fashionable anymore, or it does not fit). It is
compulsory and essential to understand the necessity of creating a new balance between the use of resources, the
lifespan of the products and consumer behaviour. Closing the loop and building a new understanding of how the textile
and clothing industry can exist is the key to the future – to develop and implement the circular business model. This type
of business implies some changes in the production flow: the materials are recycled in several rounds, the design
process has to take into account several lifecycles of the items (with the same destination or a different one), the
products are designed to be re-included in a system where it is possible, and the consumer has to be educated to accept
these categories of products. Each stage of the production process has to be sustainable, environmentally friendly and
with a low production cost. In terms of a sustainable design process, this paper presents the main stages of the
designing process of a garment (leisure sports jacket), with a versatile shape and usage (garment/ backpack). The
garment is designed and manufactured to allow and the vice-versa transformation without any technological
modifications. By using a creative and feasible design and manufacturing solution, the waste of worn garments will be
considerably reduced, and the product lifespan prolonged, as much as it is possible.
Keywords: circular economy, versatile garment, design for durability, prolong the lifespan, detachable garment parts
Citation: Avadanei, M., Olaru, S., Ionescu, I., Florea, A., Curteza, A., Loghin, E.-C., Dulgheriu, I., Radu, D.C., Clothing development process towards a circular model, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 89–96, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1563B
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Authors: IONICA ONCIOIU, ANA MARIA IFRIM, MARIUS PETRESCU, ANCA GABRIELA PETRESCU, CĂTĂLIN PETCU, CĂTĂLIN IONUȚ SILVESTRU
Pages 97-101
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1840
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
Today, more than ever, the increasing levels of recycled textile waste ratios in Turkey make a significant contribution to
the development of a sustainable future at global level. This research paper aims to present the attitudes, motives and
experiences of the Turkish purchase intention related to textile products coming from the recycling of unused, old or
faulty textile products. A quantitative marketing research was carried out on a sample of over 650 participants on the
data provided by the questionnaire which focuses on studying the consumer behaviour of textile products coming from
the recycling of unused, old or faulty textile products, influenced by endogenous (psychological) and exogenous
(sociological) variables. A series of general hypotheses and statistical assumptions were made, the results of which were
presented through testing using a series of econometric formulas. The results show important aspects regarding the
purchase intention of the textile products coming from the recycling of unused, old or faulty textile products and they also
describe the evolution of the market shares of green textile products, based on the perceptions of the Turkish population.
Keywords: Turkish textile sector, environmentally friendly, eco-friendly clothing, financially sustainable, sustainability
Citation: Oncioiu, I., Ifrim, A.M., Petrescu, M., Petrescu, A.G., Petcu, C., Silvestru, C.I., Considerations regarding the purchase behaviour for clothes made from recycled textile waste in Turkey, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 97–101, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1840
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Authors: ADINA VICTORIA ALBU, TUDOR CACIORA, ZHARAS BERDENOV, DORINA CAMELIA ILIES, BOGDAN STURZU, DANIELA SOPOTA, GRIGORE VASILE HERMAN, ALEXANDRU ILIES, GABRIELLA KECSE, CARMEN GEORGETA GHERGHELES
Pages 102-107
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1824
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
One of the principles of the circular economy is to recycle used or unused materials, in order to reuse them in the
creation of new objects or the restoration of old ones. But due to the fragility, some of these materials, such as old textiles
and clothing, are quite difficult to handle. This study presents a completely digital method with the help of which two
pieces of clothing of different ages and physical properties, have been restored and stylized; the two pieces are made
up of a traditional Romanian women’s shirt about 100 years old and a modern sports t-shirt. For the application of the
principles of the circular economy, the restoration-stylization processes of the pieces were based on the material and
ornaments collected digitally from a series of old Romanian towels, which are currently no longer used. For this we
considered the creation of 3D models of all the materials considered by the method of photogrammetry in Agisoft
Metashape 1.6.2 Professional Edition and their processing in MeshLab 2020.2, as well as the vectorization of traditional
motifs in ArcGis 10.6. Such an approach limits to the minimum the numbers of attempts that the restores have at their
disposal while also allowing the obtaining, storage and transmission of information about traditional textiles, aimed at
capturing the imagination of modern artists and designers to restore them for future generations.
Keywords: ethnographic textiles, photogrammetry, 3D modelling, digitalization, garment, digital design
Citation: Albu, A., Caciora, T., Berdenov, Z., Ilies, D.C., Sturzu, B., Sopota, D., Herman, G.V., Ilies, A., Kecse, G., Ghergheles, C.G., Digitalization of garment in the context of circular economy, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 102–107, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1824
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Authors: AMIRA LAKHAL, NEJIB SEJRI, FADHEL JAAFAR, YASSINE CHAABOUNI, MORCHED CHEIKHROUHOU
Pages 108-113
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.01.1563
Published online: February 2021
Abstract
The working environment is an essential element for the health and safety of the work and for the improvement of
productivity. So, the conditions in the clothing industry are the most productive of occupational diseases such as MSDs,
deafness and eye diseases. In this paper, we made an analysis of the environment in a clothing industry for each
workplace using the NF EN ISO 2612 standard to analyze the level of sound exposure, the standard NBN EN 12464-1
is used to analyze the level of light for a sewing workplace. The noise level varies between 73 dBA and 90.5 dBA
depending on the type of workplace. The lighting at the working zone varies between 240 lx and 1100 lx. The average
temperature level varies between 28°C for the ironing stations and 26°C for the other stations and the average humidity
level is 50%. The percentage of quality varies between 0 and 5%. An objective method was developed to determine the
general pace of a sewing post which contains the atmosphere factors with regard to the noise level, the lighting level,
the level of quality, the temperature level and the humidity. According to these parameters, the average pace of the
studied group decreased from 98 to 78.
Keywords: lighting level, noise level, temperature, humidity, quality, workplace
Citation: Lakhal, A., Sejri, N., Jaafar, F., Chaabouni, Y., Cheikhrouhou, M., Influence of environmental factors on the working rhythm in a clothing industry, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 1, 108–113, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.01.1563
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