Issue 6 / 2018 
Article: Design of a new rotary dobby mechanism
Authors: ÖZGÜN CAN, GABİL ABDULLA
Pages: 429-433
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1484
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
Special cam mechanisms which require advanced technology are used in the drive mechanism of nowadays rotary
dobbies. Electromagnets are generally preferred in the selection mechanisms which increase the cost of production and
make the maintenance more difficult. This work aims to design a new rotary dobby different from the other dobbies. First
of all, the design and synthesis of a new drive mechanism with eight members, equal and double standby at 180°
oscillating motion was developed. The results of the research revealed that both the theoretical and the experimental
values of the waiting angles of drive mechanism are compatible with each other. Thus, it has been proposed that
designed mechanism can be used instead of the special cams mechanisms in the rotary dobbies. Pneumatic pistons
and locks have been used in the selection mechanism of rotating dobby developed in the study. During the performence
tests, it has been observed that the pneumatic piston and locks can be used instead of the electromagnets by providing
that they work in harmony with each other. As a conclusion, when the working performance of dobby was observed, it
was confirmed that dobby worked with a high performance and durably with all of its mechanisms. Additionally the
shedding process was precisely carried out. Finally a new rotary dobby which was easy to construct with low cost has
been designed and produced.
Keywords: weaving, shedding, dobby, design of mechanism, rotary dobby
Citation: Can, O., Abdulla, G., Design of a new rotary dobby mechanism, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 429–433, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1484
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Article: From fabric design to the dress manufacturing considering the fabric’s suitability with the end use
Authors: RODICA HARPA, EMILIA VISILEANU
Pages 434-439
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1570
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
This study covers an investigation on two wool-type fabrics selected as suitable for cold season dresses. From the
beginning, it was expected that the two fabrics will bear out diverse features in dresses due to the different patterns and
structures, yet suitable for the end use. The fabrics were tested following the standards for the properties linked to the
actual wearing of dresses, some of the features being related also to the general appearance expected by any clothing
customer, regardless of the purchasing way (retailing or e-commerce). This opinion was pointed out by a survey of
women’s preferences about buying clothing items. Next, it was achieved the 3D clothing simulation to visualize the cold
season dress, by combining the sketch, the fabric (with raw material, pattern, colours, and overall features expected for
wearing) and finally, the wearer’s body. This approach allowed stepping forward from the experimental results reached
for fabrics’ overall quality after the laboratory testing to the dress simulation, to give customers virtual perceptions on the
fabrics’ suitability for particular outfits. Therefore, within the textile value chain, the weaving companies should upgrade
the design process by including the benefits of the 3D clothing simulation. This strategy would move towards the
reaching of the consumer’s perspective on the fabrics suitability for manufacturing items of clothing as successful
products on the market.
Keywords: fabric design, manufacturing, clothing, fabric end use, consumers, e-commerce
Citation: Harpa, R., Visileanu, E., From fabric design to the dress manufacturing considering the fabric’s suitability with the end use, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 434–439, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1570
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Article: Optimization and valorization of recycled fiber in non-woven fabric
Authors: MOHAMED TAHER HALIMI, MOHAMED BEN HASSEN, BECHIR WANNASSI
Pages 440-445
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1534
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
The range and volume of textile products used every day is growing exponentiallythroughout the world, in both
developed and developing countries. Therefore, the issues of waste Management and valorization become a challenge
that requires depth economic and technical studies. In this setting, we aimed in this paper to give an added value of two
kinds of textile wastes: yarns and textiles garments wastes collected from Blue denim manufacturer. A quality
assessment of the reclaimed fibers shows satisfying physical and mechanical properties that allow them to be used to
produce nonwoven textiles materials. A set of properties are investigated and results revealed that nonwoven structures
can be considered as a good alternative for yarn and woven recycled fibers exploitation.
Keywords: recycling, cotton fiber, nonwoven, textile industry
Citation: Halimi, M.T., Hassen, M.B., Wannass, B., Optimization and valorization of recycled fiber in non-woven fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 440–445, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1534
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Article: Design of high mechanical and thermal resistant composites using marine plant waste
Authors: SAOUSSEN ZANNEN, RIADH ZOUARI, MOHAMED BEN HASSEN, LAURENCE JEANMICHEL, STEPHANE MOLINA
Pages 446-450
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1515
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
We investigate the mechanical and thermal properties of a composite structure manufactured from polypropylene matrix
reinforced with marine waste fibers, Posidonia oceanica. We show that this fiber largely available on Mediterranean
coasts presents many advantages compared to other natural fibers conventionally used as reinforcement. In fact,
Posidonia fiber is extracted easily with only mechanical action. Moreover, it enhances the mechanical properties of the
whole composite without any need of compatibilizers due to its hydrophobicity. Finally, apart from the mechanical
performances, we demonstrate that the incorporation of the fiber with high ratio does not degrade its thermal properties
which are a specificity of thermally resistant fibers that could open a wide range of applications.
Keywords: composites, Posidonia fiber, thermal and mechanical performances, silane treatment
Citation: Zannen, S., Zouari, R., Hassen, M.B., Jeanmichel, R., Molina, S., Design of high mechanical and thermal resistant composites using marine plant waste, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 446–450, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1515
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Article: Multi-functional effects of textiles dyed with madder roots powder (Rubiatinctoria)
Authors: IULIANA DUMITRESCU, OVIDIU GEORGE IORDACHE, ELENA-CORNELIA MITRAN, DANA STEFANESCU, ELENA VARZARU, MARIANA PISLARU, RODICA CONSTATINESCU
Pages 451-457
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1576
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
In this study, 100% cotton knit was premordanted with mimosa tannin and mimosa tannin/alum and dyed with a dyestuff
extracted from Madder root. The degree of exhaustion was carry out by UV-Vis spectroscopy. The color fastness to light,
wash, rubbing (wet and dry) and perspiration of the mordanted and dyed fabrics were evaluated according to specific
ISO standard.
The samples were tested for ultraviolet protection and antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus strains. The
color fastness to washing and light are poor and the fastness to perspiration and rubbing is moderate. The dyed fabrics
demonstrate an excellent UV protective effect and a good antibacterial activity. Even thin, the materials used for summer
clothes dyed with madder could provide an effective and common mean to protect the human body against the harmful
effects of UV rays.
Keywords: natural dye, mimosa tannin, alum, UV protection, antimicrobial activity
Citation: Dumitrescu, I., Iordache, O.G., Mitran, E.-C., Stefanescu, D., Varzaru, E., Pislaru, M., Constatinescu, R., Multi-functional effects of textiles dyed with madder roots powder (Rubiatinctoria), In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 451–457, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1576
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Article: Analysis of thermal properties, water vapor resistance and radiant heat transmission through different combinations of firefighter protective clothing
Authors: JAWAD NAEEM, ADNAN MAZARI, ENGIN AKCAGUN, ANTONIN HAVELKA, ZDENE KUS
Pages 458-465
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1463
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
This experimental work is an effort to seek the possibility of improvement in thermal protective performance of firefighter
protective clothing at different levels of heat flux density. Improvement in thermal protective performance means
enhancement in the time of exposure against the heat flux, which will provide extra time to firefighters to perform their
duties without suffering from severe injuries. Four different multilayer combinations of firefighter protective clothing were
investigated. Each combination consists of outer shell, moisture barrier and thermal liner. Aerogel sheet was also
employed as a substitute to thermal barrier. Initially, properties like thermal resistance, thermal conductivity, and water
vapor resistance of multilayer fabric assemblies were investigated. Later on these combinations were exposed to
different levels of radiant heat flux density i.e. at 10, 20 and 30 kW/m2 as per ISO 6942 standard. It was noted that those
combinations in which aerogel blanket was used as thermal barrier acquire greater thermal resistance, water vapor
resistance and have less transmitted heat flux density values.
Keywords: firefighter protective clothing, thermal resistance, thermal protective performance, heat flux density
Citation: Naeem, J., Mazari, A., Akcagun, E., Havelka, A., Kus, Z., Analysis of thermal properties, water vapour resistance and radiant heat transmission through different combinations of firefighter protective clothing, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 458–465, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1463
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Article: A novel approach for identification of pills based on the method of Depth From Focus
Authors: LING JIE YU, RONG WU WANG, JIN FENG ZHOU
Pages 466-471
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1271
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
For automatic pilling evaluation of textiles, the depth information is one of the most critical and effective features in
extracting pills from fabric image. Laser-scanning techniques are often used for acquiring 3D depth images. However,
due to the high-cost and low-efficiency of Laser-scanning system, researchers have found it unsuitable for fabric
analysis. This paper illustrates a new approach for acquiring the depth image used to extract pills by introducing the
method of Depth From Focus (DFF). This approach firstly captures a sequence of images of the same view at different
focal positions under the automatic optical microscope. Then the best-focused position (z) of each pixel (x, y) was
determined by choosing the layer of image declaring the max sharpness and formed the depth image. This paper
proposed a new sharpness-evaluation criterion which was based on the variance of gradients. Afterwards, a few basic
points indicating the background area was selected from the depth image, and then the depth coordinates (x, y, z) at
these basic points were used to calculate a predicted background plane. Via the background plane, pills above the
background were extracted. A fabric sample with a single fiber upon it was presented to illustrate the process and result
of the approach.
Keywords: Depth from Focus, pill detection, sharpness evaluation
Citation: Yu, L.J., Wang, R.W., Zhou, J.F., A novel approach for identification of pills based on the method of Depth from Focus, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 466–471, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1271
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Article: Efficient removal of Indigo dye from aqueous solution by an innovative method of emulsion liquid membrane
Authors: RAJA FAHAD QURESHI, KHADIJA QURESHI, ZEESHAN KHATRI, SAMANDER ALI MALIK, A. WAQAR RAJPUT, INAMULLAH BHATTI
Pages 472-477
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1482
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
Extraction of Indigo dye from aqueous solution is studied in this research using Emulsion Liquid Membrane (ELM).
Water/Oil (W/O) emulsion was prepared by mixing aqueous phase with organic phase at an elevated homogenizing
speed. H2SO4 and Hexane were used as internal stripping agent and organic diluent respectively. Monooleate Sorbitan
commonly known as Span-80 was used as surfactant in organic phase. This W/O emulsion was later mixed with external
feed phase containing Indigo dye to make W/O/W double emulsion. Stability of the membrane was optimized by
experimenting different operating parameters. The ELM prepared under the optimum conditions was finally used to
remove Indigo dye from aqueous solution. The parametric study of the process parameters affecting the extraction
efficiency was also performed. Under optimum conditions of parameters like volume ratio of emulsion/feed, dye
concentration in feed, stirring speed and contact time of two phases, the extraction of Indigo dye was found to be 99%.
Therefore, ELM was found to be an attractive and effective technique for the removal of dyes.
Keywords: membranes, emulsification, stability, extraction, Indigo dye
Citation: Qureshi, B.F., Qureshi, K., Khatri, Z., Malik, S.A., Rajput, A.W., Bhatti, I., Efficient removal of Indigo dye from aqueous solution by an innovative method of emulsion liquid membrane, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 472–477, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1482
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Article: Advanced wastewater treatment stage for textile industry
Authors: IOANA CORINA MOGA, MIHAI GABRIEL MATACHE, ILEANA CRISTINA COVALIU
Pages 478-482
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1501
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
Dissolved air flotation represents an important stage for wastewater treatment and was used during the last sixty years
for different pollutants such as: suspended solids, greases, oils etc. Nowadays, the dissolved air systems are generally
applied in industrial wastewater treatment plants, where the amount of pollutants is above the average (textile and
leather industry). The research team members developed an innovative DAF unit and realized a laboratory demonstrator
(figure 1). The laboratory installation was tested and the efficiency of wastewater treatment was demonstrated. The
latest researches proved that flotation reagents have an essential role in the removal of different pollutants. The scientific
literature demonstrates that these reagents can be used to remove the pollutants as sludge or foam, Reagents are
divided into modifiers, flocculants, depressants, collectors and frothers, depending on their role the flotation process.
Nanomaterial utilization in wastewater treatment has become an intensely studied topic. Collectors reagents, based on
hydrophobic nanoparticles, can adsorb a larger quantity of pollutants due to the hydrophilic particle surfaces that
facilitate the attachment of pollutants to air bubbles generated by the DAF unit. In the present paper, the researchers
present that the role of nanoparticles is to facilitate particle-bubble attachment and/or to minimize detachment. The goal
of the study is to consider the influence of nanoparticle parameters on the various stages of particle flotation to
demonstrate the key role of nanoparticles in removal of pollutants from textile wastewaters.
Keywords: dissolved flotation unit (DAF), wastewater treatment, nanomaterial, settler
Citation: Moga, I.C., Matache, M.G., Covaliu, I.C., Advanced wastewater treatment stage for textile industry, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 478–482, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1501
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Article: Textile & clothing clusters – sustainable development drive of the Romanian economy
Authors: SABINA OLARU, CATALIN GROSU, EFTALEA CĂRPUȘ, PYERINA CARMEN GHIȚULEASA, MIRELA GRETI PUIU, SANDA-MIRELA BOGYO, SORINA LUMINIȚA BUCURAȘ
Pages 483-488
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1574
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
The tendency among developed countries is the development of national systems with complex international
interactions, called by the specialists: “triangles of knowledge”. The triangle of knowledge, consisting of education,
research and innovation, is realized through cooperation between education institutions, research organizations and the
business environment.
The importance of clusters to increase regional competitiveness comes from the fact that co-located businesses
increase company productivity, lead to job creation, stimulate innovation, stimulate new business formation and support
the survival and growth of small businesses.
This paper presents elements for defining the Romanian clusters involved in textile & clothing sector and their activity
analysis.
According to the Ministry of Economy, in Romania there are 4 clusters in the textile & clothing sector, presented by
development regions.
For a detailed view of the Romanian textile & clothingclusters activity, the analysis of their economic indicators during
the period 2012-2016 was carried out. The turnover achieved by the textile & clothing enterprises part of the four clusters
was in 2016 of 1.19 billionRON, employing a staff of about 7078 employees.
Clusters have the potential to create innovation-friendly ecosystems to strengthen SME clusters to better exploit their
needs as a means of promoting economic growth.
Keywords: cluster, textile, clothing, sustainability
Citation: Olaru, S., Grosu, C., Cărpuș, E., Ghițuleasa, P.C., Puiu, M.G., Bogyo, S.-M., Bucuraș, S.L., Textile & clothing clusters – sustainable development drive of the Romanian economy, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 483–488, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1574
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Article: The evaluation of websites in the textile industry by applying ISO/IEC 9126-4 standard and the EDAS method
Authors: DARJAN KARABASEVIC, DRAGISA STANUJKIC, MIODRAG BRZAKOVIC, MLADJAN MAKSIMOVIC, PAVLE BRZAKOVIC
Pages 489-494
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1520
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
Nowadays, modern companies perform the largest part of their communications with their consumers over the Internet,
usually in order to promote their own products and services. There are almost no companies today that do not promote
their products and services through the Internet and websites. Therefore, measuring the quality of a website is significant
from the company’s point of view in order to maintain the competitive advantage in the long run; thus, the quality of a
website has become an area of great importance. This paper aims to present a new multiple-criteria decision-making
approach, together with the “quality in use” ISO/IEC 9126-4 criteria devoted to the evaluation of the quality of websites
in the textile industry. The proposed approach is based on the use of the newly-developed Evaluation Based on Distance
from Average Solution (EDAS) method for the ranking of alternatives, i.e. in our case websites, whereas for the purpose
of determining the weights, the adapted Step-wise Weight Assessment Ratio Analysis (SWARA) method is applied. In
order to demonstrate usability, efficiency and simplicity a numerical example of the evaluation of the websites of the
textile industry in Serbia is conducted.
Keywords: website quality, textile industry, evaluation, EDAS, MCDM
Citation: Karabasevic, D., Stanujkic, D., Brazkovic, M., Maksimovic, M., Brzakovic, P., The evaluation of websites in the textile industry by applying ISO/IEC 9126-4 standard and the EDAS method, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 489–494, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1520
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Article: A framework of consumer perceived value on fashion products for female college students of France
Authors: YAN HONG, XUECHUN CAO, YAN CHEN, XIANYI ZENG, YU CHEN, ZHIJUAN PAN
Pages 495-501
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1408
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
Consumer perceived value is paid attention by marketing and branding experts recently. Current existing researches
related to consumer perceived value are lack of analysis of inner dimensions of the consumer perceived value
framework. In this study, our research focuses on the development of the consumer perceived value framework. To
demonstrate the application of the proposed framework, a fashion-based consumer perceived value framework for
French female college students is developed. In order to obtain the desired framework, a knowledge-based conjecture
is firstly performed by a group of professional fashion marketing managers to generate a set of dimensions and
corresponding indicators of consumer perceived value, which contains 4 dimensions and 26 indicators. After that, the
conjecture framework is validated and adapted through a process of statics analysis based on experimental results of
collecting data from 350 female college students in France. Finally, we obtained a framework of consumer perceived
value for French female college students, which contains 7 dimensions and 26 indicators. The proposed framework is
validated though a set of analysis. Related experimental result has demonstrated that the final framework can be further
applied to consumer behavior analysis, marketing strategy and new product design and development planning.
Keywords: consumer perceived value, consumer behaviour analysis, modelling, conjecture, knowledge-based process, and hierarchical structure
Citation: Hong, Y., Cao, X., Chen, Y., Zeng, X., Chen, Y., Pan, Z., A framework of consumer perceived value on fashion products for female college students of France, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 495–501, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1408
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Article: SWOT analysis of Pakistan’s textile and clothing industry
Authors: SEHER KANAT, SADAF AFTAB ABBASI, MAZHAR HUSSAIN PEERZADA, TURAN ATILGAN
Pages 502-510
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1488
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
Pakistan’s textile and clothing industry is one of the significant players of global textile and clothing trade as well as being
a corner stone for its national economy. Although Pakistan’s textile and clothing industry possesses abundant raw
material resources (cotton) and cheap and abundant labour, it has confronted with many issues in recent years. At this
point, SWOT analysis is one of the methods which can be used for the analysis of current situation. This research aims
to reveal the present situation of Pakistan’s textile and clothing industry with SWOT analysis. Thus, a gap can be filled
in which academic studies are inadequate. Besides, the study contributes to the strategy development of Pakistan’s
textile and clothing companies and government executives. In accordance with the aim of the research, the strengths
and weakness of Pakistan’s textile and clothing industry are determined primarily. Afterwards, opportunities and threats,
which can be faced within national and international textile and clothing trade are analyzed. Finally, the obtained data
are analyzed and evaluated and suggestions are made for the future of the industry.
Keywords: Pakistan’s textile and clothing industry, SWOT analysis, competitiveness, textile and clothing trade
Citation: Kanat, S., Abbasi, S.A., Peerzada, M.H., Atilgan, T., SWOT analysis of Pakistan’s textile and clothing industry, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 502–510, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1488
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Article: Statistical study of the effect of metallic mordants on tensile strength of wool
Authors: AMINODDIN HAJI, MAJID NASIRIBOROUMAND
Pages 511-518
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1598
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
Despite the vast variety of studies in the field of effect of different mordants on dyeing and fastness properties of wool
with natural dyes, there is no thorough investigation on the effect of metal mordants on tensile properties of wool. In this
study, five different metallic salts namely aluminum potassium sulfate, tin chloride, potassium dichromate, copper
sulfate, and ferrous sulfate were applied on wool with concentrations ranging from 1 %owf to 20 %owf. The tenacity of
the samples was measured and SPSS software was employed to investigate the effect of different concentrations of
various mordants on tensile strength of woolen yarn compared with raw sample. The results showed that aluminum
potassium sulfate and ferrous sulfate had no statistically significant effect on the tenacity of the yarns while tin chloride
showed the highest inverse effect and lowered the yarn strength significantly. Aluminum potassium sulfate and ferrous
sulfate reduced the tenacity for maximum of 4.2 %owf and 4.4 %owf respectively while the tin chloride treated sample
was completely destroyed when applying higher than 5 %owf of the mordant.
Keywords: mordant, tenacity, wool, complex formation, alum, SPSS
Citation: Haji, A., Nasiriboroumand, M., Statistical study of the effect of metallic mordants on tensile strength of wool, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 511–518, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1598
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Article: Impacts of female body shapes on patternmaking
Authors: NEZLA ÜNAL, EMİNE UTKUN
Pages 519-523
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.06.1222
Published online: December 2018
Abstract
Clothing fit is one of the most important factors that affect consumers’ purchasing behaviour and body movement
comfort.
This study aims to examine the effects of different female body shapes on clothing pattern design. For this purpose,
body measurements of 231 women aged between 18 and 25 were taken and classified according to body shapes and
sizes. Then the impacts of body shapes were investigated on basic dress pattern drawing with standard dart prepared
in Müller & Sohn patternmaking system.
Darted basic dress patterns of women who had a body size of 36 and piled up in pear and rectangle body shapes were
adjusted, and these adjustments were compared. While pattern adjustments were carried out according to the rectangle
and pear body shape, necessary changes were made on the full height, the girths of breasts, waist, hip and front,
back and front average length measurements.
Keywords: fitting, pattern adjustments, body shapes, body movement comfort
Citation: Ünal, N., Utkun, E., Impacts of female body shapes on patternmaking, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 6, 519–523, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.06.1222
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