Issue 5 / 2023

Inner covers

Article: Study of antimicrobial property of knitted spacer fabric treated with 1-Tetradecanaminium, N,N-dimethyl-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl], chloride

Authors: MICHAEL RODRIGUES, G. THILAGAVATI
Pages: 501–512
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.202183
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

The current study helps to understand the efficacy of antimicrobial treatment done on a weft-knitted spacer fabric. The antimicrobial agent used in the study is from the class of quaternary ammonium salts. The fabric is evaluated for antimicrobial efficacy. It is also cross-compared with the drug and some advanced wound dressings available in the market for its antimicrobial and anti-biofilm activity.
Knitted spacer fabric treated with 1-Tetradecanaminium, N,N-dimethyl-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl], chloride (QAS) shows good antimicrobial properties and is shown to exhibit a broad range of antimicrobial effects against gram-positive bacteria, gram-negative bacteria and also fungus and yeast. The rapidity of killing and durability of microbial activity make it a very suitable material for infection control in applications like wound care materials. The spacer fabric can behave as foam in the management of exudates in wounds.
The efficacy of this material compared with other dressing materials yields substantial evidence of its activity as a wound dressing material when it comes to management of microbial contaminations including biofilm prevention and disruption. Such material can find use in the management of chronic wounds and is a subject matter of further studies with clinical evidence.
Keywords: spacer fabric, knitted, antimicrobial, QAS, biofilm

Citation: Rodrigues, M., Thilagavati, G., Study of antimicrobial property of knitted spacer fabric treated with 1-Tetradecanaminium, N,N-dimethyl-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl], chloride, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 501–512,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.202183

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Article: Statistical analysis of textile structures based on conductive yarns

Authors: RALUCA MARIA AILENI, ANGELA DOROGAN, TEODOR SÂRBU, CRISTINA STROE, CRISTINA LITE
Pages 513–518 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.2022125
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

This work presents a series of textile structures fabricated by weaving and knitting using insulating, conductive and antistatic yarns. The physical-mechanical (thickness, water vapour permeability, mass and air permeability), electrical (electrical resistivity), and morphological (SEM, EDAX) properties of the textile structures were analysed to highlight their application potential in interactive products. The statistical analysis of the correlations between physical-mechanical and electric properties was conducted by correlation analysis using the electrical surface resistivity values as dependent variables and the mass (M), thickness (δ) and water vapour permeability (Pv) as independent variable.
Keywords: textile, conductive, interactive, resistivity

Citation: Aileni, R.M., Dorogan, A., Sârbu, T., Stroe, C., Lite, C., Statistical analysis of textile structures based on conductive yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 513–518,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.2022125

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Article: Decoding the fashion trend of sports shoes with empowered computer vision

Authors: QIAN LU, JINGJING LI, ZISENG LIN, JIN ZHOU
Pages 519–526 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.2022107
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

To adapt to the rapidly changing market and capricious trends, fashion brands need to understand trends and market conditions precisely and fast to produce marketable products. The traditional fashion trend analysis has relied heavily on the subjective judgement of experts, inevitably leading to biased decisions and is time-consuming. The development of computer vision and machine learning provides an objective and systematic approach to processing images and analysis of fashion products. However, most studies focus on clothing trends analysis, few are on shoe trends analysis. Hence, this study aimed to decode and analyse the fashion trend of sports shoes with empowered computer vision technology. In this paper, a dataset containing e-commerce images of sports shoes with precise annotations was established; then Mask-RCNN was utilized to classify and extract the shoe from the background image; a modified version of the K-means clustering algorithm was employed to detect the shoe colour. The results indicated that fashionable sports shoes and casual sports shoes were the most prevalent two styles. Besides neutral tones, yellow, red ochre and reddish orange were popular in casual sports shoes, fashion sports shoes and basketball shoes respectively and Atlantic Blue in board shoes and trainers. This study demonstrated the promising potential of computer vision and machine learning as a new method to analyse footwear fashion trends efficiently and economically.
Keywords: fashion trend analysis, sports shoes, fashion attribute recognition, computer vision, machine learning, K means clustering

Citation: Lu, Q., Li, J., Lin, Z., Zhou, J., Decoding the fashion trend of sports shoes with empowered computer vision, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 519–526,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.2022107


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Article: An eco-friendly approach: effect of fixation time on colour and comfort properties of digital printed fabric

Authors: ŞEHPAL ÖZDEMIR, FÜSUN DOBA KADEM
Pages 527–533 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.2022122
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

This study will examine how digital printing affects clothing comfort on knitted fabrics from different raw materials. Garments significantly affect the heat exchange between the human body and the environment. Therefore, consumers prefer thermally balanced and effective moisture-controlled products in the selection of clothing. Air permeability is also important in explaining the comfort performance of the product in the textile industry. On the other hand, digital printing machines have become the centre of attention of consumers as a print type on which the desired pattern can be printed on the chosen fabric and more ecological, faster, and economical. However different printing processes can change the comfort characteristics of the garments.
In this study, single jersey knitted fabrics 100% Ne 12/1 cotton, 100% Ne 30/1 cotton, and Ne 12/1 70% cotton + 30% Hemp were produced. Raw materials were bleached and singed, then coloured with digital printing. After that, air permeability, bursting strength, stiffness, ironing fastness, and SEM analyses were applied to samples when the results were determined, it was seen that heavier fabric will have higher stiffness. Also, thicker yarns have higher bursting strength. It follows that the cotton-hemp blended fibres (PK) have high unevenness, and the bursting strength of the fabrics produced from this raw material is lower than cotton fabrics (P12). Similarly, since the thin-thick place values of cotton-hemp blended yarns are high, porosity is one of the most important factors affecting air permeability in fabrics. This porous structure also increased the air permeability of the fabric.
Keywords: inkjet printing, air permeability, hemp, thickener, knitted fabrics, fixation time, ironing fastness

Citation: Özdemir, Ş., Kadem, F.D., An eco-friendly approach: effect of fixation time on colour and comfort properties of digital printed fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 527–533,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.2022122

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Article: Application of Kansei Engineering in aircraft design

Authors: YINMEI GE, SHANSHAN WANG, RUONAN HAN, JING PENG, ZHAOYING ZHANG, YAN HONG, YONG YANG
Pages 534–541 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.20231
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

Kansei Engineering can develop a new product by translating a customer's requirements into design, which is an ergonomic technology for product development oriented towards customer emotion. Using Kansei Engineering in aircraft design is one of the most effective means to enhance flight experience. We rely on Vosviewer software to capture the research hotspots and trends of Kansei Engineering in aircraft design, which are categorized and overviewed by a visualization network. On the one hand, the importance and methods of human sensory elements, including auditory, visual, tactile, olfactory and taste, as well as human action elements in aircraft design, are studied. It is concluded that the design of aircraft layout, materials and colour schemes has an impact on human senses and behaviour. On the other hand, not only the materials and layouts for seats, cockpits and panels are discussed, but also an argument is put forward on the materials' effective application based on Kansei Engineering. Herein, we conclude with the current application of Kansei Engineering in aircraft design and advise on future design.
Keywords: Kansei Engineering, aircraft design, ergonomics, visualization network

Citation: Ge, Y., Wang, S., Han, R., Peng, J., Zhang, Z., Hong, Y., Yang, Y., Application of Kansei Engineering in aircraft design, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 534–541,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.20231

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Article: Thermal performance of protective clothing (firefighter) under extreme ambient conditions

Authors: EMADELDIN SAYED GOHAR, ADNAN AHMED MAZARI
Pages 542–546 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.20237
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

Protective clothing is made up of multiple layers of textile, which include thermal barrier, moisture barrier, chemical protection and heat radiation protection layers etc. This clothing is commonly used by workers working in the chemical industry, blast furnaces, glass industry, industrial boilers and many more. The ambient conditions for these workplaces are humid and hot in which the clothing is designed for the external protection of heat and fluids but the neglected issue is the internal heat and moisture accumulation. This makes the clothing extremely uncomfortable and significantly reduces the workability of the wearer. The multi-layered structure of this clothing causes the body moisture and heat to trap in between layers, which in extreme ambient conditions like working near the furnace or flash fire causes body burns, these “steam burns” are common and considered to be caused by the condensed moisture trapped in the layers of protective garment. This research aims to firstly investigate the moisture flow through hybrid textile layers and its effect on heat transfer and then secondly to see the impact of extreme radiation flux on the moisture flow inside the textile layers and improvement by using Aerogels.
Keywords: firefighter, comfort, radiation, textile

Citation: Gohar, E.S., Mazari, A.A., Thermal performance of protective clothing (firefighter) under extreme ambient conditions, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 542–546,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.20237

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Article: Strategic SWOT – factor analysis of a textile company – a case study

Authors: MARINA JOVANOVIĆ, SNEŽANA UROŠEVIĆ, ZLATIN ZLATEV, MILOVAN VUKOVIĆ, GORAN BABIĆ, ALEKSANDRA VUKOVIĆ
Pages 547–554 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.2022137
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

SWOT-Factor Analysis of a Textile Company is used to recognize and solve the problem of the constantly changing fashion market and to search for opportunities for the realization of textile products. To analyse the problem of the unresolved economic environment in the textile industry, it needs to follow the policies for sustainable development while developing and showing higher productivity and strengthening its market position. We used a survey and a SWOT-factor matrix. A survey related to the production of textiles and clothing was conducted, and the degree of importance of the respondents' answers and the position they hold in their work organization was determined. A SWOT-factor matrix has been compiled, eliminating the shortcomings of existing solutions in this field. Issues are analysed to describe the strengths and weaknesses of the company. A strategic intensity at level ρ 0.5 means that the company must adopt a conservative development strategy. A diagram of strategic quadrilateral and a diagram of specific strategies have been drawn up, and recommendations have been made for the company's work in the direction of its effective development. The company must adopt a conservative development strategy. For future work of study, it will be possible to control the actions taken and to give an accurate assessment of the performed analysis over a certain period.
Keywords: firm performance, strategic planning, management, development, sustainability

Citation: Jovanović, M., Urošević, S., Zlatev, Z., Vuković, M., Babić, G., Vuković, A., Strategic SWOT – factor analysis of a textile company – a case study, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 547–554,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.2022137

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Article: A review on deterioration of textile cultural heritage objects and sustainable solutions to mitigate the degradation

Authors: SIMONA TRIPA, LILIANA INDRIE, FLORIN TRIPA, MONICA MARE
Pages 555–563 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.2022145
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

Heritage textiles are important evidence of human history. Folk costumes, quilts, tapestries, rugs, hangings, etc. constitute a rich collection of products that are particularly valuable but also extremely fragile. This paper presents the main causes of the deterioration of heritage textiles, followed by a summary of the main bio-treatments that are effective in their case. Essential oils and plant extracts have a strong antibacterial, antifungal and insecticidal effect and are therefore recommended to be used as sustainable alternatives to conventional treatments. At present, bio-treatments used to prevent and reduce the deterioration of heritage textiles are carried out in two ways. One of them targets bioaerosols in museum spaces and the second one targets microbial agents on the surface or in the structure of textiles. The application of bio-treatments on heritage textiles should be done taking into account the specific features given by their fibrous composition, the structure of the materials, their age, the environmental conditions in which they are, etc. At present, these treatments are not yet commonly used for heritage textiles or the spaces in which they are stored or exhibited, even though there are studies that have proven the effectiveness and safety of their use.
Keywords: heritage textile, essential oils, plant extracts, antibacterial, antifungal, antimicrobial

Citation: Tripa, S., Indrie, L., Tripa, F., Mare, M., A review on deterioration of textile cultural heritage objects and sustainable solutions to mitigate the degradation, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 555–563,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.2022145

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Article: Personality traits and its impact on continuance intention to use social networking sites to buy branded clothing

Authors: TAYYEBA BASHIR, TAN ZHONGFU, BURHAN SADIQ, ALIYA ANWAR, AMMARA NASEEM
Pages 564–571 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.2022115
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

Personality traits are vital to study in the case of clothing buyers through social networking sites (SNS). In this study, an effort is made to bridge the gap by assessing the “big five” individual personality traits. These traits include neuroticism (extroversion), extraversion, openness to experience, conscientiousness, and agreeableness. In addition, customer value may moderate the link between personality traits and continuance intention. A survey of customers on Pakistani students was carried out. Structure equation modelling was applied to analyse the collected data from 450 respondents. Our research showed that extraversion, agreeableness, and neuroticism are all connected to the buying behaviour of students through SNS. Furthermore, this study confirms the moderating role of customer value between personality traits and purchase intention. The findings of this study have the potential to be beneficial for all stakeholders engaged in the buying and selling of clothing brands through SNS.
Keywords: customer value, personality traits, intention to buy, social networking sites, clothing brands

Citation: Bashir, T., Zhongfu, T., Sadiq, B., Anwar, A., Naseem, A., Personality traits and its impact on continuance intention to use social networking sites to buy branded clothing, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 564–571,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.2022115

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Article: Promoting educational materials in digital fashion

Authors: ION RAZVAN RADULESCU, MARIAN CATALIN GROSU, SABINA OLARU, RAZVAN SCARLAT, IRINA IONESCU, EMILIA VISILEANU, ANDREJA RUDOLF
Pages 572–578 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.2022133
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

Specialized fashion software, as a technological instrument for virtual modelling, has a critical role in reducing the length of the design process and time to market, simplifying communication with other departments and improving the quality of the creative process.
This paper presents a survey of the modelling technologies used in Romanian clothing companies as a critical starting point for outlining a new methodology in teaching digital fashion. As part of the larger European survey in the framework of the Erasmus+ Digital Fashion Project, collected data from Romanian textile companies present their current needs for clothing designed with computer technologies and 3D software for virtual prototyping.
According to the sampled companies, most have high (over 42%) and medium (over 33%) levels of digital skills. The most needed occupational profile was the 3D Designer, and the age expectation was between 25–40 years. The ability to design clothing patterns using virtual prototyping was the most selected preference when asked about future development requirements. The survey results are valuable both in establishing the new methodological framework for teaching digital fashion and in identifying the needs for the other project outcomes, such as the textile database, the virtual training platform, and the new curricula.
Keywords: virtual garment prototyping, technical drawing, garment pattern design, e-learning

Citation: Radulescu, I.R., Grosu, M.C., Olaru, S., Scarlat, R., Ionescu, I., Visileanu, E., Rudolf, A., Promoting educational materials in digital fashion, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 572–578,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.2022133

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Article: Investigating the relationship between ownership structure, board composition, and company performance: An extensive overview of companies in the textile industry in Iran

Authors: REZVAN POURMANSOURI, MIR FEIZ FALLAH, RAMONA BIRAU, CRISTI SPULBAR, DUMITRU CINCIULESCU
Pages 579–594 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.2022119
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

The present study examines the relationship between the composition of the board of directors, ownership structure, and company performance in companies that are members of the Iranian capital market. This research has been investigated in a statistical sample of 113 companies from the member companies of Iran's capital market between 2011 and 2021. The results of this research have been analysed by the panel analysis method which we use two internal and external criteria to examine the company's performance. Thus the results show that there is a correlation between the proportion of foreign directors on the board of directors and the concentration of ownership with the company's internal performance criteria. Also, another result of this research is that there is a relationship between the proportion of foreign directors on the board of directors and the concentration of ownership with the external measure of the company's performance. Moreover, this research paper analyses companies in the textile industry in Iran during the sample period.
Keywords: composition of the board of directors, ownership structure, company performance, member companies of Iran's capital market, Covid-19 pandemic, stock market, concentration of ownership, economic wealth, textile industry

Citation: Pourmansouri, R., Fallah, M.F., Birau, R., Spulbar, C., Cinciulescu, D., Investigating the relationship between ownership structure, board composition, and company performance: An extensive overview of companies in the textile industry in Iran, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 579–594,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.2022119

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Article: The effect of marine environment on the mechanical performance of Dacron sailcloth

Authors: İBRAHİM CEYLAN, GÖKDENİZ NEŞER, FARUK BOZDOĞAN
Pages 595–601 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.202165
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

The usage of sails is increasing parallel to the sustainability initiatives in marine transportation not only for recreational craft but also for large vessels carrying commercial goods and passengers. In this study, the marine environmental degradation of the sailcloth which significantly shortens the lifetime of these materials was investigated experimentally. Dacrons, which are relatively cheap, easy to form, and resistant to breakdown, but problematic to keeping their original shape while subjected to wind loads, were selected as the sailcloth. The combined effect of seawater exposure, temperature, UV, wet-dry cycle, water repellent treatment on the Dacron’s mechanical performance was measured by tensile tests performed for the Dacron specimens with nine different areal weights and in two different fibre directions (warp and weft) and by dynamical mechanical analysis for a representative Dacron sailcloth. The comparative results show that the marine environment has significant degradation effects on the mechanical performance of sailcloths.
Keywords: Marine environmental degradation, Dacron sailcloth, marine textiles

Citation: Ceylan, I., Neşer, G., Bozdoğan, F., The effect of marine environment on the mechanical performance of Dacron sailcloth, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 595–601,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.202165

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Article: Integrated innovation of smart materials and product design from the perspective of design intelligence

Authors: WANG YUN, ZHANG LINGYAN, CHEN XINYI, ZHU JIHONG, CHEN YIZI
Pages 602–609 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.2022121
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

Materials are the physical basis and carrier of product design, and the selection of materials is an important part of product design. With the continuous exploration of materials, smart materials have become a hot topic in science and technology innovation. This study uses the winning entries of industrial design awards in the past five years as the data source, and 54 design entries using smart materials for innovative design were obtained after retrieval. The current status of the application of smart materials in product design has been summarised through classification analysis, case analysis and comparative analysis. It is found that the integrated innovation of smart materials and product design is still relatively simple. There is still a lot of space for the development of the application of smart materials in product design. In terms of the existing ways of integration of smart materials and product design, this study proposes that the future integration of product design and smart materials can be innovated from biology, ecology, sensing and computing perspectives through methods such as bionic design, sustainable design, personalised design and parametric design. This study provides a reference for the application of smart materials and new creative expressions in future product design and proposes a new trend for the integration of smart materials and product design in the future.
Keywords: design intelligence, smart material, product design, integrated innovation, design method

Citation: Yun, W., Lingyan, Z., Xinyi, C., Jihong, Z., Yizi, C., Integrated innovation of smart materials and product design from the perspective of design intelligence, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 602–609,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.2022121

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Article: Worker saving attitude towards retirement planning: A study on Indian textile industry

Authors: DANIEL FRANK, RUPESH ROSHAN SINGH, ARADHANA HARRISON, VIDYA BAI G., RAMONA BIRAU, CRISTI SPULBAR, PETRE VALERIU NINULESCU
Pages 610–617 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.202316
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

The uneven and polarised nature of development has propagated disparities in access to services. Uncertainties in the textile sector have not only affected the economy but have impacted the livelihood of workers dependent on this sector. Systematic retirement planning could have eased the anxiety and inconvenience to a larger extent but was non-existent to a larger extent. This has further become a critical problem as life expectancy has grown, as have health-care expenditures. The purpose of this research is to look at the link between saving attitudes about “personal financial planning and retirement planning behaviour “of workers from textile factories within the industrial area of Solapur and Pune, in the Indian state of Maharashtra. A total of 200 workers were polled, and the chi-square test with regression analysis tested the data. The study found a strong association between the idea of financial awareness and superannuation planning within textile workers leading to improved savings attitude. Workshops, seminars, and other mediums of communication were revealed as means for improved retirement savings. A sound financial attitude may not be limited to the stages of retirement financial behaviour; a potential issue for future research would be to use the created financial literacy scale to explore its association with a broader spectrum of financial behaviour.
Keywords: saving attitude, financial literacy, retirement planning, retirement behaviour, textile industry

Citation: Frank, D., Singh, R.R., Harrison, A., Vidya Bai, G., Birau, R., Spulbar, C., Ninulescu, P.V., Worker saving attitude towards retirement planning: A study on Indian textile industry, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 610–617,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.202316

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Article: Strength of cotton dual-core elastane yarn splice

Authors: THOURAYA HAMDI, MOHAMED JMALI, MOHAMED BEN HASSEN
Pages 618–622 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.05.20228
Published online: October 2023

Abstract

Cotton/elastane yarns are composite yarns composed of a blend of elastane core covered with cotton fibres. An increase in the demand for sports and leisure garments with high comfort and elasticity has led to more significant usage of elastane filaments. New yarn using two elastane filaments with a high ratio of elastane are introduced.
An experimental study was established to define the most appropriate parameters for spliced cotton dual-core elastane yarn strength. The splice strength was enhanced when binding air pressure, joining air duration, and preparation duration were raised. Increased preparation air pressure does not affect the strength of the splice.
Keywords: splice strength, dual-core elastane yarn, splicing conditions, experimental design

Citation: Hamdi, T., Jmali, M., Ben Hassen, M., Strength of cotton dual-core elastane yarn splice, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 5, 618–622,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.05.20228

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