Authors: IVANA RAĐENOVIĆ, DANICA LEČIĆ-CVETKOVIĆ, TEODORA RAJKOVIĆ, NENAD ANIČIĆ
Pages: 259–266
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202237
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
The global coronavirus pandemic has caused major problems in the business of companies in the textile and fashion
industry all over the world. This pandemic contributed to the development and increasing application of e-business. It
also caused increased development of online sales for many companies to meet customer demands in uncertain market
conditions. The main objective of the paper is to present the potentiality of the application of a defined set of key
performance indicators (KPIs) for measuring and comparative analysis of sales performance in the year due pandemic
(2020) and the year before the pandemic (2019). KPIs were defined based on the parameters that were the most
exposed to changes during the emergence of a coronavirus disease. The analysis is conducted on the example of one
of the leading companies in the textile and fashion industry, Inditex. Based on the results, it can be concluded that
despite a significant reduction in total sales in 2020, Inditex managed to achieve a high sales success rate, although the
sales target achievement rate was lower compared to the previous year. According to a unique business model based
on a global, flexible, digitally integrated, and sustainable online platform, Inditex had a big increase in online sales, which
had a key role in the year of the pandemic when 640 retail stores were closed.
Keywords: textile and fashion industry, sales, key performance indicators, coronavirus pandemic, Inditex
Citation: Rađenović, I., Lečić-Cvetković, D., Rajković, T., Aničić, N., Textile industry and coronavirus – the impact of the pandemic on sales performance: a case study of Inditex, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 259–266, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202237
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Authors: OKSAN ORAL, ESRA DIRGAR, NILGUN OZDIL
Pages 267–272
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202259
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
Mankind's need to protect itself from various dangers, cold, heat and other natural phenomena have survived from the
first days of its existence to the present day. Materials with high visibility have also been developed primarily with the
need for protection. These materials are widely used on bicycle wheels, road signs and traffic signs in daily life. Materials
used in various textile products such as activewear, sportswear, children's clothing, accessories, hats, uniforms, foot and
armbands, and backpacks make life easier by providing safety for the people who walk with their pets, as well as road
workers, traffic policemen, firefighters, pedestrians and bicycle riders people who do sports and walking at night due to
their busy life.
Many of the traffic accidents occurring today are due to the inability to notice individuals moving on the side of the road.
In conditions where the lighting is not sufficient, the reflective feature of the clothes worn will allow people to be noticed
more easily. Reflective tapes are used to add reflective properties to clothes. However, these tapes may lose their
reflective properties as a result of the various effects they are exposed to. A performance loss that may occur in reflective
tape properties due to these effects will put the wearer's life at risk. For this reason, in this study, the changes in the
reflective properties of retroreflective tapes after various effects were investigated.
Keywords: retroreflectivity, reflective tapes, safety clothing, high visibility, knitted fabric, woven fabric
Citation: Oral, O., Dirgar, E., Ozdil, N., Investigation of the changes in reflective properties of reflective tapes due to various effects, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 267–272, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202259
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Authors: RALUCA MARIA AILENI, IUKSEL RASIT, CRISTINA STROE
Pages 273–277
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202298
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
This paper presents several aspects of in vivo biocompatibility tests using the animal model, considering conductive
electrodes based on cotton fabric and a conductive paste-based polymeric matrix with copper microparticles that offer
the potential to be used in medical devices. Additionally, this work presents a potential application of the electrodes for
temperature sensors using the Arduino development board. In addition, after performing in vivo tests, analysis of the
primary irritation scores, animal irritation scores, and cumulative irritation index showed that the electrodes resulted in a
negligible measurement of perceived skin irritation.
Keywords: textile, electrodes, conductive, biocompatibility testing, in vivo
Citation: Aileni, R.M., Rasit, I., Stroe, C., Evaluation of copper electrodes for biomedical monitoring systems, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 273–277, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202298
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Authors: XIAOFANG LIU, XIAOFEN JI, YUXIU YAN, QI ZHOU
Pages 278–285
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202244
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
Seamless knitted sports bra is becoming popular for its high performance in tactility and pressure comfort, however, it
also encounters the problem of insufficient support. To improve the support performance, it is always knitted with strong
elastic material in a reduced size than the body dimension, which will generate much pressure on the body, leading to
discomfort. As the pressure distribution may affect the pressure comfort and support performance of the sports bra, this
study aimed to explore novel information in optimizing the pressure comfort and support performance by applying
elasticity distribution. 4 sports bras with different elasticity distribution on the under-band were developed to compare
with the one without elasticity distribution, and 12 healthy women were involved as subjects. The pressure distribution
and pressure comfort sensations both in static and dynamic conditions, and the reduction of breast displacement (RBD)
of 5 sports bras were measured and analysed by ANOVA analysis. The results indicated that the pressure distribution,
the pressure comfort and RBD were effectively changed by elasticity distribution. Bra D with a high Young’s modulus on
the side area of the under-band was ideal and typical both in pressure comfort and RBD.
Keywords: seamless knitted, sports bra, under-band, elasticity distribution, pressure comfort, breast support
Citation: Liu, X., Ji, X., Yan, Y., Zhou, Q., The elasticity distribution of under-band based on pressure comfort and breast support performance for seamless sports bras, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 278–285, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202244
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Authors: HAO TANG, WENJUAN LI, SHUANG LIU, YAN HONG, CHUAN JIANG
Pages 286–295
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202285
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
In this paper, we propose to analyse the consumer perception of yoga wear and then improve its design based on the
demand-driven design principle. For this purpose, we break down the problem into three levels: Goal Level
(development of the new yoga wear), Requirement Level, and Design Solution Level (garment design solutions
corresponding to the requirements of the Requirement Level). For the requirement level, we take into account the FEA
(functional, expressive and aesthetic) factors for the consumer perception analysis. Due to the hierarchical
characteristics of the analysis, we propose a fuzzy AHP (analytic hierarchy process) approach for the related data
analysis. By using the AHP model, we can analyse requirements alongside their solutions in design alongside their
respective weights. 50 evaluators (yogis) and 20 designers took part in the experiments. Similar design solutions and
performance evaluation of the solutions were defined through consumer research and subjective evaluation experiments
with standard procedures. We hope that this paper will guide the analysis and development of yoga wear design.
Keywords: FEA considerations, yoga wear design, fuzzy AHP, perception analysis, conceptual model
Citation: Tang, H., Li, W., Liu, S., Hong, Y., Jiang, C., Consuming perception analysis of the yoga wear using fuzzy AHP model, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 286–295, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202285
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Authors: MARIANA COSTEA, ARINA SEUL, AURA MIHAI
Pages 296–302
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202275
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
The paper presents experimental research on the slit tear resistance of leather used for producing upholstery. A finite
element analysis is done by simulating the product's behaviour, considering different factors and parameters, and
materials are classified according to the normal stress results. The maximum force exerted during the tearing of the
specimen has been observed at the SATRA tensile testing machine, with STM 466ST attachment and digital software
control. The load at break, the extension at break, Young's Modulus, and the load-distance graphs were registered and
the medium values were calculated. The Taguchi method based on orthogonal arrays was used to maximize the material
characteristics significant for this type of analysis.
Keywords: leather for upholstery, slit tear test, Taguchi method, finite element analysis
Citation: Costea, M., Seul, A., Mihai, A., Slit tear resistance of leather used in upholstery manufacturing, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 296–302, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202275
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Authors: ZHOU ZI-XIANG, CHEN SI
Pages 303–309
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.2022138
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
To synthetically investigate the compressive mechanism of warp knitted spacer fabric reinforced silicone rubber matrix
composite (SRWSF) under 20% deformation, a compression meso-mechanics theoretical model was established in this
paper. The silicone rubber was processed as isotropic material according to the nonlinear constitutive equation, the
spacer yarn was assumed as a continuous uniform element. The compression meso-mechanics theoretical model
consists of the mechanical model of silicone rubber and the compression model of warp knitted spacer fabric (WSF),
based on the Euler-Bernoulli beam theory and the Spence Invariant constitutive model theory. To verify the feasibility of
the compression meso-mechanics theoretical model of SRWSF, the compression test of SRWSF was carried out. The
simulated compression stress-strain curve was compared with the results of the experiment. The result shows that the
compression theoretical model has a high agreement with the experimental result under 20% strain, as compared with
the Polynomial fitting curve. This phenomenon indicates that the compression theoretical model established in this study
can reasonably simulate the actual compression behaviours within 20% deformation for SRWSF. Moreover, the
theoretical model can help understand the compression mechanism of SRWSF and optimise the designing of silicone-rubber-matrix composite reinforced by WSF for cushioning applications.
Keywords: warp-knitted spacer fabric, silicone-rubber matrix, compression meso-mechanics model, Euler-Bernoulli beam, Spence Invariant theory
Citation: Zi-Xiang, Z., Si, C., The mathematical study of compression behaviours of silicone rubber composites reinforced by warp-knitted spacer fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 303–309, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.2022138
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Author: ARZU KILIÇ
Pages 310–320
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.2022131
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
The printing process, which is an aesthetically significant process subprocess in garment design, has the potential to
affect the physical properties and sensory comfort of the fabric. Due to its low cost and very fast process period and the
fact that it is environmentally conscious, pigment printing is widely used in the textile industry. This study it’s aimed to
guide the designers in the selection of printing type for piece printing according to the fabric type by considering the print
area and print pattern in the apparel industry. For this purpose, the effects of commonly used pigment printing pastes
on the physical properties and sensorial comfort in knit fabrics of different constructions were studied. To that end, two
different patterns were applied to three knit fabrics with different constructions by using three different pigment printing
methods to assess several features of the fabrics, namely, print quality, air permeability, roughness, compressibility and
bending. As a result of this study, it was observed that the printing application method and print pattern design have a
significant impact on the handle properties of the fabric. Consequently, it was revealed that it is necessary to take into
account the printing application method and print pattern design in the process of printed clothing design. Among the
print types evaluated in this study, the best print type was determined in terms of sensorial comfort and physical
properties. In addition, suggestions were made on the issues to be considered during the print design of print types with
worse comfort and physical properties.
Keywords: sensorial comfort, printing, air permeability, roughness, compressibility, bending, print design
Citation: Kiliç, A., Research into the effects of pigment printing parameters on sensorial
comfort to guide garment designers in the apparel industry, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 310–320, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.2022131
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Authors: BAHODIR SAFAROV, LILIANA INDRIE, MONICA COSTEA, ALEXANDRU TURZA, KOMIL AVAZOV, STEFAN BAIAS, DORINA CAMELIA ILIEȘ, MIHAELA ZDRINCA, EMILIA PANTEA, GABRIELA ILIEȘ, NICOLAIE HODOR, ANA CORNELIA PERES
Pages 321–331
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202220
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
Ethnographic heritage textiles may be subject to risks generated in particular by various factors in close connection with
the microclimate of the storage and exposure areas. In accordance with the current European trends of pest prevention
and reduction and response to the infestation/contamination of the cultural heritage, the research direction of this study
aimed at investigating the degradation of some women’s clothing items, around 80–100 year-old, made of natural fibres,
namely cotton. Throughout this paper, an essential aspect was taken into account for establishing a preventive or
curative conservation strategy, namely the characterization of the fabric from which the three shirts are made. Thus,
some physical and structural characteristics were determined by making use of different types of analyses: FTIR
spectroscopy, the spectra specific for cotton; the microbiological analyses showed the presence of Bacillus subtilis and
Rhizobium radiobacter, Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pyogenes, which are not considered pathogenic or
toxigenic to humans with the normal function of the immune system.
Keywords: textiles, cultural heritage, non-invasive, conservation, fungi, FTIR
Citation: Safarov, B., Indrie, L., Costea, M., Turza, A., Avazov, K., Baias, S., Ilieș, D.C., Zdrinca, M., Pantea, E., Ilieș, G., Hodor, N., Peres, A.C., Non-invasive analytical methods applied in the study of cultural heritage artefacts, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 321–331, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202220
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Authors: FEYZA AKARSLAN KODALOĞLU, HILAL DEMİRALAY
Pages 332–336
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202217
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
Microorganisms can reproduce rapidly on textile surfaces. It is known that textile surfaces used especially in hospitals
cause the spread of infections and pose a danger. In recent years, instead of synthetic and heavy metal applications,
the interest in obtaining environmentally friendly and natural plant-based antibacterial materials and textile applications
has been increasing day by day. Grape skins and seeds, rich in polyphenolic compounds, are waste products from
winemaking. The evaluation of such waste products is of great importance. In this study, grape seed, which is stated to
have antibacterial activity in many studies, was applied to cotton textile material with the coating method and it was
aimed to gain antibacterial properties to the fabric. As a result of the colour fastness tests performed according to the
ISO 105-C06 standard, it was not observed that the coating process had a negative effect on the washing fastness of
the fabrics. The wash fastness value of all coated fabrics is 5. As a result of the washing fastness test, it was seen that
the coated fabrics were resistant to washing. As a result of the friction fastness tests performed according to the TS EN
ISO 105-X12 standard, it was observed that the coated fabrics were resistant to friction. When the breaking strength and
breaking elongation values of the coated fabrics were examined as a result of the strength test performed according to
the TS EN ISO 13934-1 standard, it was observed that the tensile strength and elongation at break of the coated fabrics
increased. Antibacterial tests against E. coli and S. aureus bacteria were performed on treated fabrics according to the
AATCC 100 antibacterial test method. It is obtained as a result of the coating process for 60% coverage. As a result of
the coating process, better results were obtained against E.coli bacteria. It was observed that the antibacterial properties
improved as the coating rate increased. As a result of the tests, antibacterial activity was provided against both bacteria.
An acceptable level of antibacterial activity was detected in the antibacterial tests of the washed fabrics.
Keywords: grape seed, coating, cotton fabric, antibacterial activity
Citation: Kodaloğlu, F.A., Demiralay, H., Application of grape seed coating for antibacterial cotton fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 332–336, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202217
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Authors: HAIWEN MAO, YAN HONG
Pages 337–345
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202236
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
The dedusting system is the parameter selection and the degree of cooperation between several dust collector
components. The stability of the system plays a decisive role in the dust removal efficiency of the whole system. The
existing dust removal system model is a mechanism model, and the bag size, filter bag distribution and other parameters
are optimized by simulation results. It cannot provide a model reference for the use of a new filter bag. In this research,
the generalized model of the dust removal system is established by MATLAB. The factors affecting the service life of
filter bag and dust removal efficiency of dust removal system are analysed. A differential equation is used to describe
the influence of these factors. The dynamic model of the dust removal system is established. When considering the
problem of flue gas emission, the algebraic equation with dust is constructed. The model of the bag-type dust removal
system is described by a generalized system. Finally, the model’s stability is analysed using the method of generalized
system analysis, and the necessary and sufficient conditions for the stability of the model are obtained. Given the
advantages of a seamless filter bag in filtration efficiency and mechanical properties, the stability of the system is
studied. The results show that the system stability increases by 55.4% and 41.9% respectively. The performance of the
filter bag is introduced into the modelling of the dust removal system, which plays a key role in the overall evaluation of
the filter bag.
Keywords: seamless filter bag, generalized system, dust removal system, system stability
Citation: Mao, H., Hong, Y., Research on modelling and stability of seamless dust removal system based on generalized system, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 337–345, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202236
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Authors: DUJE KODŽOMAN, ALENKA PAVKO ČUDEN, VANJA ČOK
Pages 346–355
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202253
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
Emotional design is the concept of creating a design that evokes emotions, which results in pleasant user experiences.
It is important because emotions influence decision-making and affect both our attention and memory. Although clothing
has a direct impact on our mood and attitude, fashion is rarely given attention as an area where emotions play an
important role in the design process. We have summarized the existing data on this topic using a secondary research
method. This review aims to explore whether garments induce senses and sensory experiences, what is the importance
of emotional branding and brand experience, and how fashion brands employ sense marketing. After a theoretical
review of the literature, in the results section, we present a brief overview of evoking the senses with specific examples
from the fashion industry. The findings of the review indicate that the relationship between emotions, senses and fashion
can be seen through: the colour of the fabric (sense of sight), the store interior (sense of sight and touch), the scents in
the store (sense of smell), the interaction between skin and fabric or touching the textiles (sense of touch), and finally
the music in the store (sense of hearing).
Keywords: fashion, emotion, senses, sensory evaluation, sensory system
Citation: Kodžoman, D., Čuden, A.P., Čok, V., Emotions and fashion: how garments induce feelings to the sensory system, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 346–355, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202253
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Authors: LIU SHUYI, LIU JUNRAN, LI QIZHENG, BAO WEI, XU NUO, WANG XIAOPENG, WANG LAILI
Pages 356–362
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202258
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
With the concern of global warming, efforts are increasingly focused on understanding and addressing carbon emission
in the life cycle of silk products. Whereas, the carbon sequestration effects of mulberry and silk are rarely mentioned in
the previous studies on the carbon footprint of silk products. In this regard, this study constructed a biomass method to
adequately evaluate the carbon sequestration effects of mulberry and silk produced in China. An application
demonstration was conducted in the area of mulberry fields and the cocoon yield of the silk industry in China from 1990
to 2021. The results indicate that mulberry fields in China fixed 875.9608 million tons of CO2 from 1990 to 2017, while
silk in cocoons produced in China fixed a total of 5.9528 million tons of CO2. These vast quantities of carbon trapped in
mulberry leaves enter the silk, the silkworm chrysalis and silkworm droppings, as well as other by-products as silkworms
ingest, grow, and spin cocoons. This demonstrates that increased exploitation of sericulture by-products can also
contribute to carbon sequestration. Besides, the influence of the silk product's lifespan should be taken into account
when quantifying and analysing the carbon neutralization of silk. Therefore, extending the usage life of silk products as
long as feasible can also have a great effect on the carbon sequestration of silk products.
Keywords: carbon storage, carbon neutralization, mulberry, silk, temporary carbon storage effect
Citation: Shuyi, L., Junran, L., Qizheng, L., Wei, B., Nuo, X., Xiaopeng, W., Laili, W., Quantification and analysis of carbon neutralization in mulberry and silk in China, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 356–362, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202258
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Authors: EHSANUL HASSAN, MUHAMMAD AWAIS-E-YAZDAN, RAMONA BIRAU, LUCIA PALIU-POPA
Pages 363–370
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.2022105
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
It’s always been worthwhile for companies to identify significant predictors of financial distress before its occurrence.
This study intends to analyse the scenario of financial distress prediction by focusing on Pakistan. The sample of the
study covers companies from the three biggest sectors (textile, sugar and cement)listed on the Pakistan stock exchange
for the period of 2005 to 2020. The financial ratios are divided into four main categories of profitability, liquidity, leverage
and asset efficiency with a total of 18 financial ratios. The results indicate that the financial ratio produced model
accuracy rates of 90.11 percent for the first year prior to bankruptcy, 87.72 percent for the second year prior to
bankruptcy, 85.32 percent for the third year prior to bankruptcy, 82.36 percent for the fourth year prior to bankruptcy and
79.57 percent for the fifth year prior to bankruptcy. The results also indicate that profitability, liquidity, leverage, and asset
efficiency, are significant predictors of financial distress. The study provides a useful financial distress prediction model
for policymakers, company managers, investors, lenders and creditors in the Pakistan stock exchange.
Keywords: Pakistan stock exchange, financial distress, logistic regression, bankruptcy, non-financial companies, economic sustainability, financial obligations, textile industry
Citation: Hassan, E., Awais-E-Yazdan, M., Birau, R., Paliu-Popa, L., Anticipating financial distress in monster sectors of Pakistan’s economy: an application of logit, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 363–370, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.2022105
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Authors: MIHAELA-CRISTINA LITE, RODICA ROXANA CONSTANTINESCU, NICOLETA BADEA, ELENA-CORNELIA TĂNĂSESCU, IRINA-MARIANA SĂNDULACHE, OVIDIU GEORGE IORDACHE
Pages 371–377
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202333
Published online: June 2023
Abstract
The use of “green” reagents for silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) synthesis represents an attractive alternative to
conventional methods, due to the abundance of available biomass with reducing properties. Herein, a flavonoid
compound, hesperidin, was used to produce AgNPs, and the resulting dispersion was applied to textile fabrics and
tested for its antimicrobial properties. Different ratios of flavonoid to the silver precursor (v:v) were prepared. The
formation of the nanoparticles was indicated by the presence of the SPR specific band in the UV–Vis spectra. For the
synthesis optimization, the DLS technique was used to determine the size and polydispersity of the AgNPs, while zeta
potential measurements were performed to assess their physical stability. For the dispersion with the optimal ratio,
particles with the average size (Zav) of 93.55±3.51 nm were obtained, with a polydispersity index (PdI) of 0.259. For this
ratio, the value of the zeta potential (ξ.) was –28.80±1.54 mV, indicating that the dispersion is physically stable. The
nanoparticles were further characterized using SEM-EDS techniques to confirm the particles' nature and evaluate their
morphology. The AgNPs were deposited on textile samples, by direct soaking into the dispersion. The distribution of the
AgNPs on the textile samples fibres was evaluated by SEM and the chromatic parameters L*a*b* were determined
compared to the untreated samples. Antimicrobial tests were conducted against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus
aureus, and Bacillus subtilis strains, according to the ISO 20743:2013 standard, and percentages of bacterial reduction
up to 99.99% were obtained.
Keywords: silver nanoparticles, flavonoids, hesperidin, dispersions, antimicrobial textiles
Citation: Lite, M.-C., Constantinescu, R.R., Badea, N., Tănăsescu, E.-C., Săndulescu, I.-M., Iordache, O.G., Antimicrobial treatment for textiles based on flavonoid-mediated silver nanoparticles dispersions, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 371–377, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202333
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