Issue 6 / 2020

Inner covers

Article: A revised numerical model for parachute inflation based on ALE method

Authors: CHEN CHEN, QILEI GUO, PENG SUN
Pages: 515-518
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1708
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
The parachute inflation process is a typical time-varying, non-linear and fluid-structure coupling problem, especially in airdrop condition. For its complexity, numerical model of the inflation process is a big challenge, and most of the models established before still have room for improvement. There were two common problems that the first one was ignorance of inertia force of canopy and line, and the second was that took stretch speed as the initial airdrop speed in modelling. Thus, a modified finite element model for canopy inflation process based on ALE (Arbitrary Lagrange Euler) method was established that the inertia force of canopy and line was taken into consideration and the initial airdrop speed was estimated and adjusted. The opening load in finite mass situation during deployment-inflation process of C-9 type parachute was calculated. The result was compared to experimental data and calculated data of unmodified models. It was indicated that the opening load and peak time of modified model was the closest to experiment and the snatch load was also calculated and confirmed, so that the correctness and rationality of the model was verified. Then the factor influence of inertia force and initial airdrop speed was analysed, which provided a reference for parachute numerical modelling.
Keywords: ALE, parachute, inflation, finite mass, finite element model

Citation: Chen, C., Guo, Q., Sun, P., A revised numerical model for parachute inflation based on ALE, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 515-518,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1708

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Article: Determinants of supply chain effectiveness during economic slowdown – an exploratory study of the Indian Textiles Cluster

Authors: GURUMURTHY SUGANYA, SELVAKUMAR JOSHUA
Pages 519-529 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1748
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
This paper aims at studying the functioning of the supply chain in the garment cluster. It identifies key factors that contribute to the effective functioning of supply chain network and practices undertaken to can withstand adverse economic situations. Moreover, it was analysed the payment of dividends to the industry in terms of better business performance. This paper uses a case based exploratory research methodology, which aims to understand the cause and effect relationship between the variables influencing the supply chain network. A comprehensive literature review was undertaken and logical reasoning was applied to propose the hypotheses and the conceptual model. Case studies from various developing nations were considered and a wide variety of supply chain models have been carefully studied to propose the constructs. This has led to the development of a model which is flexible to with stand economic crisis and at the same time effective and more robust enough to support the functioning of the various nodes in the garment supply chain network. This study to the best of author’s knowledge have not been undertaken in the garment cluster in a developing nation. The implications of this study is bound to give much needed support and leverage to the frail and underperforming garment cluster which is a major contributor of Gross Domestic Product and employment generator for the growing middle class in these developing nations.
Keywords: supply chain management, supply chain effectiveness, Indian Textile Cluster, economic slowdown, integration, organizational performance, information sharing

Citation: Suganya, G., Joshua, S., Determinants of supply chain effectiveness during economic slowdown – an exploratory study of the Indian Textiles Cluster, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 519-529,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1748

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Article: Analyses of body measurement with depth image data using motion capture sensor

Authors: HAKAN YÜKSEL, MELIHA OKTAV BULUT
Pages 530-537 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1746
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
Sensors can capture and scan many objects in real time for military, security, health and industrial applications. Sensors can be made smaller, cheaper and more energy efficient due to rapid changes in technology. Low-cost sensors are attractive alternatives to high cost laser scanners in recent years. The Kinect sensor can measure depth data with low cost and high resolution by scanning the environment. In this study, this sensor collected data on users in front of a scanner, and the depth data results were tested. The process was repeated with four different body positions, and the results were analysed. The sensor data was reliable versus real measurements. When compared the depth data taken by the sensor with the real measures, the reliability rate is found significance. The difference between the depth image data of different users, different positions and different body measures and real data is 0.35 to 1.15 cm. This shows that the sensor’s results are close to real data. When the accuracy of the sensor against real measurements is examined, it is seen that these values are between 98.46 % and 99.6 %. Thus, this depth image sensor is reliable and can be used as an alternative and cheaper way for body measurements.
Keywords: anthropometry, gesture based sensors, image processing, measurements, depth image

Citation: Yüksel, H., Bulut, M.O., Analyses of body measurement with depth image data using motion capture sensor, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 530-537,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1746


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Article: Performance of recycled PET and conventional PES fibers in case of water transport properties

Authors: MEHDI HATAMLOU, ARIF TANER ÖZGÜNEY, NILGÜN ÖZDİL, GAMZE SÜPÜREN MENGÜÇ
Pages 538-544 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1691
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
In recent years the researches on liquid moisture transport properties of fabrics have great importance. Especially for the sport garments, fabric structure should led liquid moisture to transfer from skin surface to the outer layers. Special fibers and fabric structures were designed including channelled fibers and micro fiber productions to contribute higher capillary transport capability to the textile surface. Polyester fibers are used for this purpose frequently. Due to the increase in the demand of sustainable textiles, production and consumption of recycled polyester fibers are increasing recently. They are expected to have adequate mechanical properties to fulfil requirements. In this study, liquid moisture transfer properties of the polyester and r-PET fabrics were investigated. For this purpose, knitted fabrics produced from 100% polyester and 100% r-PET yarns were used. Dynamic liquid transport properties, capillary transfer property, drying rate and water absorption capacity of these surfaces were measured. According to the results, it was concluded that both fabrics were identified as “good” by using “Moisture Management Tester”, in case of liquid moisture transfer properties. No significant difference was determined between water vapour permeability values. Static immersion test is helpful in order to determine wettability for the identification of sensitive differences and as a conventional method, vertical wicking test is a good indicator while distinguishing capillarity differences. It was found that r-PET fabric has better results than PES fabric, in case of absorption rate, wettability, drying rate and capillarity.
Keywords: r-PET, recycled fiber, moisture management, water vapour permeability, liquid moisture transfer, capillarity, drying rate, evaporation speed

Citation: Hatamlou, M., Özgüney, A.T., Özdil, N., Mengüç, G.S., Performance of recycled PET and conventional PES fibers in case of water transport properties, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 538-544,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1691

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Article: Investigation of droplet impact on inclined fabric based on CMOS imaging technology and FSI numerical method

Authors: SHUHUA BAI, HAN CHENG
Pages 545-549 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1730
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
In order to study the impact characteristics of droplet on inclined fabric, the relevant experiment was setup in this paper. The process of a single droplet (2.12 mm) impacting inclined fabric (45°) was captured by CMOS (Complementary Metal-Oxide Semiconductor) imaging technology. It could be found that there was a second impact phenomenon during spreading stage, which was very different from impacting horizontal fabric. Then a two-way coupling method was used to simulate that impacting process. The numerical results were basically consistent with the experimental results. In addition, the reaction force and vibration characteristics of fabric which couldn’t be collected by experiments were also obtained. Finally, the effect of inclination angle on impact characteristics was analyzed by numerical method. The bigger the inclination angle was, the longer the stability time of droplet was, and the smaller the reaction force on fabric was. The change law conformed to the momentum theorem. The method and conclusions could provide some references for the design of parachute system.
Keywords: CMOS, aeronautical fabric, fabric response, two-way coupling, polyamide

Citation: Bai, S., Cheng, H., Investigation of droplet impact on inclined fabric based on CMOS imaging technology and FSI numerical method, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 545-549,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1730

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Article: Effect of fabric parameters on fragrance retention

Authors: LEI DU, FU-XIANG WANG, JIA-LI YANG, ZHUO-YING SHEN, WEI-GUO ZHAO, FENG-YUAN ZOU, HAI-FENG ZHU, SU-HONG XU
Pages 550-556 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1729
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
This study is to explore the effect of fabric parameters on fragrance retention, which was based on the olfactory measurement technology with the quantitative headspace method. The fragrance retention of different fabrics was quantitatively evaluated by Electronic Nose (e-nose) at different time after volatilization. Quick-drying Tester was used to test the fabric drying rate, which was related to fragrance retention. Besides, wicking property and porosity of fabrics, two factors of moisture transmission, were tested and calculated for analysis too. It was found that fabrics with the higher cotton content had the better fragrance retention due to their hydrophilicity and water retention property of fibers. Plain fabric had the shorter fragrance retention than twill fabric since its lower porosity and the higher capillary pressure led to the faster fragrance dissipation. As the fabric density increased or the yarn count decreased, the fragrance retention increased. Since their wicking properties decreased, the process of perfume diffusion would slow down. The data and methods presented in this paper provide a basis for optimizing the parameters of fragrant fabric.
Keywords: fabric parameters, fragrance retention, electronic nose, moisture transmission, wicking property, quick-drying tester

Citation: Du, L., Wang, F.-X., Yang, J.-L., Shen, Z.-Y., Zhao, W.-G., Zou, F.-Y., Zhu, H.-F., Xu, S.-H., Effect of fabric parameters on fragrance retention, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 550-556,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1729

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Article: Design of a new braiding device with 3D integral active yarn carrier

Authors: SONGYIFAN, HEXINHAI, LIANGJUNHAO, ZHANGZHIYI, ZHANGLIANG
Pages 557-561 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1706
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
The braided motion of a Cartesian braiding machine is realized by pushing the yarn carriers against each other, which results in the low braiding efficiency, single product and poor expansion at present. A new braiding device three-dimen - sional (3D) integral active yarn carrier is designed. Firstly, the Integral braiding technology and traditional braiding equipment are analysed. Then an automated guided vehicle (AGV) based active carrier and its braided chassis are designed. A new steering device and power supply system are developed. The braiding process is wirelessly controlled. Finally, it is concluded that the flexible braiding of prefabricated parts of various complex shapes can be realized by the integrated braiding technology of the active yarn carrier through the analysis of the structure and working mode of the active yarn carrier.
Keywords: Cartesian braiding, active yarn carrier, AGV, 3D integrated braiding, flexible braiding

Citation: Songyifan, Hexinhai, Liangjunhao, Zhangzhiyi, Zhangliang, Design of a new braiding device with 3D integral active yarn carrier, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 557-561,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1706

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Article: Texture features extraction of multi-coloured fancy yarn

Authors: PENG CUI, YUAN XUE
Pages 562-267 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1728
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
In the present work, a framework of extracting important texture features of multi-coloured fancy yarns is proposed. A self-developed image capturing apparatus is used to record the image of fancy yarn. Subsequently, the captured digital images are processed to produce spatially corresponding pixel points to reconstruct digital images of the object, including image greying, filtering and morphology processing. At last, different segmentation methods are used to extract the texture features of fancy yarns, and the optimal segmentation method to each kind of fancy yarn is analysed.
Keywords: fancy yarn, digital image analysis, image segmentation, colour textures, image graying

Citation: Cui, P., Xue, Y., Texture features extraction of multi-coloured fancy yarn, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 562-567,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1728

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Article: Investigation of the damp-heating processing of multilayer fabric

Authors: SNEZHINA ANDONOVA, IVAN AMUDZHEV
Pages 568-571 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1788
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
With the global industrial technology development, technological processes in the textile and clothing industry are constantly evolving. These rapid rates of development necessitate the need for continuous research and analysis to establish optimal operating modes for various technological processes. The damp-heating processing/DHP is one of the main technological processes in the sewing industry. The quality of the sewing article depends to a large extent on the quality of the performance of operations in the damp-heating processing. The wide variety of textile materials, each with different composition, structure and properties, is a prerequisite for conducting extensive research to refine manageable factors of the DHP process. In recent years, textile materials with an increasingly complex structure and multicomponent composition have become increasingly important. Of particular interest are the so-called double woven fabrics. Therefore, the subject of this study is the damp-heating processing of an innovative textile fabric tissue – a multilayer weave type “double cloth”. One of the main controllable factors of the damp-heating processing is the amount of moisture introduced into the processed textile materials. The aim of this paper is to determine the limit values for the amount of steam used in the damp-heating processing of a tissue – a multilayer weave type “double cloth”.
Keywords: sewing companies, amount of steam, limit values

Citation: Andonova, S., Amudzhev, I., Investigation of the damp-heating processing of multilayer fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 568-571,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1788

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Article: Smart textiles perspective for the Romanian fashion industry

Authors: CRISTIAN MIHAI ORZAN, IULIA ADINA ZARA, MARGARETA STELA FLORESCU, OLGUTA ANCA ORZAN
Pages 572-575 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.202018
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
Fashion companies started to use advanced technologies for their new collections to grow their business. Smart textiles add value and differentiate products on the market. The application possibilities of smart textiles are often limited only by our creativity and imagination. But for the most part, modern wearables represent a narrow niche market. We interviewed twelve managers from different Romanian fashion brands. This research paper aims to show which is the opinion of Romanian fashion managers about smart textiles and if they have experience within this field. This study sets the ground for future marketing research regarding the potential demand for smart clothing in Romania.
Keywords: advanced garments, fashion industry, smart clothing, smart textile, wearable

Citation: Orzan, C.M., Zara, I.-A., Florescu, M.S., Orzan, O.A., Smart textiles perspective for the Romanian fashion industry, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 572-575,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.202018

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Article: Chitosan – a non-invasive approach for the preservation of historical textiles

Authors: EVA BOU-BELDA, LILIANA INDRIE, DORINA CAMELIA ILIEȘ, NICOLAIE HODOR, ZHARAS BERDENOV, GRIGORE HERMAN, TUDOR CACIORA
Pages 576-579 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1756
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
Old textiles represent important samples of the mobile cultural heritage, having implications on the social and spiritual life of each population. In order to keep them in the best condition, it is necessary to implement methods to prevent damages, but also to rehabilitate and clean the already affected fabrics. In the case of textiles that need to be treated, a fundamental thing is the unaltered preservation of the initial characteristics of the materials, even after the interventions. The aim of our study is to test the feasibility of a non-invasive alternative to usual chemicals for cleaning textiles; Chitosan’s antimicrobial and cleaning effects on a pair of Romanian traditional cotton trousers, from Maramures area was analyzed. A few images were taken from SEM of untreated and treated fabric with Chitosan solution using different magnifications, in order to check the changes on the fabric surface. The purpose was to observe if there are some color changes after Chitosan treatment, so the CIELAB color values (L, a, b) of untreated and treated samples were analyzed. The analysis of the treated samples revealed strong antimicrobial effects of Chitosan.
Keywords: Chitosan, old traditional clothing, SEM images, colour measurement

Citation: Bou-Belda, E., Indrie, L., Ilieș, D.C., Hodor, N., Berdenov, Z., Herman, G., Caciora, T., Chitosan – a non-invasive approach for the preservation of historical textiles, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 576-579,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1756

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Article: Is Taiwan a black swan phenomenon for local textile and clothing industry? A robust nonlinear regression-based model for stock exchange prediction

Authors: CRISTI SPULBAR, MOHAMMAD EHSANIFAR, RAMONA BIRAU, TIBERIU HORAȚIU GORUN, DANIEL IULIUS DOAGĂ, ABDULLAH EJAZ, MITHUN S. ULLAL, CRISTIAN VALERIU STANCIU
Pages 580-586 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1737
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
Local apparel and textile manufacturing industry in Taiwan is a sector of great importance for sustainable economic growth. A stock market is an effective barometer indicating the economic health of a country and Taiwan is a case even more special. However, is Taiwan a black swan phenomenon for local apparel and textile manufacturing industry considering its economic growth and financial perspectives? In addition to existing literature, this research article provides a new robust nonlinear regression-based model for stock exchange prediction for Taiwan stock market. The financial data series used for the econometric analysis include the period from January 2000 to July 2018 for 13 main stock markets from countries all around the globe, such as: Taiwan, Spain, Poland, Hungary, Romania, Canada, USA, Japan, Germany, France, UK, India, and China. The final multiple regression equation provides a new prediction model for Taiwan’s main stock market index. A sustainable economic growth in Taiwan is necessary to achieve major objectives such as social justice, poverty alleviation and natural environment protection. The stock market in Taiwan plays an essential role in order to stimulate economic growth and technological progress by attracting foreign investment and foreign capital. In a globalized economy, the inter-linkages between stock markets are complex and can significantly influence Taiwan’s sustainable development.
Keywords: textiles, apparel industry, manufacturing sector, emerging stock market, economic growth, sustainable development, economic sustainability, nonlinear regression-based model

Citation: Spulbar, C., Ehsanifar, M., Birau, R., Gorun, T.H., Doagă, I.D., Ejaz, A., Ullal, M.S., Stanciu, C.V., Is Taiwan a black swan phenomenon for local textile and clothing industry? A robust nonlinear regression-based model for stock exchange prediction, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 580-586,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1737

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Article: Updating the Clothing Technician Profile through synergies between industry and vocational and educational training

Authors: ALEXANDRA CARDOSO, PEDRO NERO GUIMARÃES, ANA PAULA DINIS, ALEXANDROS KOUKOVINIS, JORGE DOMENECH-PASTOR, ALMUDENA SEGADO, MIHAELA DASCALU, SABINA OLARU
Pages 587-595 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1838
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
The importance of the textile and clothing sector in the European manufacturing industry, particularly in terms of the economy and employability, is very representative and crucial. To act upon urgent need felt by the textile and clothing industry and qualification gap, the CosTUmE project, in alignment with the Skills Agenda for Europe, created and updated the Clothing Technician profile and skills, facilitating the mobility of qualified people in the EU. This paper presents several aspects concerning the field and desk research developed in order to map the qualifications needs and the Work Based Learning Practices (WBL) in the textile and clothing sector. Also, this work presents the tools developed in order to enable people to make better career choices in UE and help them to find higher quality jobs and improve their life chances: Clothing Technician profile and qualification, ECVET Matrix, Tutorial guide for EU mobility and Training package.
Keywords: clothing, technician, profile, education, labour market

Citation: Cardoso, A., Guimarães, P.N., Dinis, A.P., Koukovinis, A., Domenech-Pastor, J., Segado, A., Dascalu, M., Olaru, S., Updating the Clothing Technician Profile through synergies between industry and vocational and educational training, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 587-595,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1838

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Article: The importance of the peritoneal dialysis catheter material in order to perform optimum dialysis in veterinary medicine

Authors: BOGDAN ALEXANDRU VIŢĂLARU, RAZVAN SCARLAT
Pages 596-599 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1843
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
This study was conducted on 44 dogs, aged between 10 months and 15 years, weighing between 0.9 and 8.5 kilograms, during 72 months. We created four batches of 11 dogs each. First batch received silicone peritoneal catheters with two Dacron cuffs, second batch received silicone peritoneal catheters without Dacron cuffs, third batch received polypropylene peritoneal catheters with two Dacron cuffs and fourth batch received polypropylene peritoneal catheters without Dacron cuffs. All the dogs were treated with the same peritoneal dialysis solution, at the same interval, in the same doses and at the same temperature and all the peritoneal catheters were straight Blake. In dogs from the first batch, we experienced minimum subcutaneous leaks of peritoneal dialysis solution and the catheters were permeable for at least 90 days. In the second batch, we experienced constant and reduced subcutaneous leaks of peritoneal dialysis solution and the catheters were permeable for at least 90 days. In the third batch, we experienced medium subcutaneous leaks of peritoneal dialysis solution and the catheters were permeable for at least 45 days. In the fourth batch, we experienced important subcutaneous leaks of peritoneal dialysis solution and the catheters were permeable for at most 15 days. The study conclusion is that the best peritoneal catheter it is represented by the silicone peritoneal catheters with two Dacron cuffs.
Keywords: peritoneal, dialysis, catheter, veterinary

Citation: Viţălaru, B.A., Scarlat, R., The importance of the peritoneal dialysis catheter material in order to perform optimum dialysis in veterinary medicine, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 596-599,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1843

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Article: Microbial degradation of an industrial azo-dye and FT-IR analysis

Authors: OVIDIU IORDACHE, IOANA CORINA MOGA, ELENA-CORNELIA MITRAN, IRINA-MARIANA SANDULACHE, LUCIA-OANA SECAREANU, CRISTINA LITE, MARIA MEMECICA, ADRIAN TANASA, GEORGIANA PANTAZI
Pages 600-604 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.06.1835
Published online: December 2020

Abstract
The presence of dyes in wastewaters from the textile industry, even in concentrations of less than 1 mg/l, significantly affects the aesthetic properties and transparence degree of public effluents, with direct repercussions on the environment. Cerioporus squamosus White-Rot-Fungi (WRF) strain was used for bio-augmentation of MBBR carriers (consisting of a mix of 88% High Density Polyethylene, 5% talcum and 7% cellulose). Cerioporus squamosus, also often encountered as Polyporus squamosus, is a basidiomycete bracket fungus, able to cause “white rot” on decaying wood. The bio-functionalized carriers were used for treatment of a synthetic wastewater sample, of Bemacid ROT (Bezema) azo-dye. Azoic dyes represent one of the most important classes of synthetic dyes used in the textile industry, accounting for over 60–70% of the dyes used in this industry. In the case of reactive groups of azo dyes (-N=N-), due to the low degrees of fixation on the fiber, there are losses of dyes in solution of up to 50%. Infrared spectral (FT-IR) analysis was carried out for determination of functional groups involved in biodegradative processes. Thus, the obtained IR spectra, different from those of initial Bemacid ROT dye, the disappearance or decrease of the signal specific to azoic bonds from the initial sample, the formation of new functional groups, the disappearance of intermolecular hydrogen bonds simultaneously with increase of transmittance values for amino groups, resulted in highlighting the degradation of Bemacid ROT dye by the bio-augmented HDPE carriers.
Keywords: microbial degradation, azo dyes, IR, fungi, Cerioporus squamosus

Citation: Iordache, O., Moga, I.C., Mitran, E.-C., Sandulache, I.-M., Secareanu, L.-O., Lite, C., Memecica, M., Tanasa, A., Pantazi, G., Microbial degradation of an industrial azo-dye and FT-IR analysis, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 6, 600-604,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.06.1835

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