Issue 3 / 2021

Inner covers

Article: The effect of N-tetradecyl-N,N-dimethyl-3-ammonio-1-propanesulfonate addition on washing properties of liquid laundry detergents

Authors: TOMASZ KALAK, ALEKSANDRA GAŁKA, DARIA WIECZOREK, RYSZARD CIERPISZEWSKI, JOANNA PIEPIÓRKA-STEPUK
Pages: 233-243
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1742
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
The use of colorimetric analysis based on a CIELab system to determine detergency of commercial liquid laundry detergents before and after modification with SB3C14 sulfobetaine (N-tetradecyl-N,N-dimethyl-3-ammonio-1- propanesulfonate) is presented. The EMPA 101 standard cotton fabric soiled with carbon black and olive oil was used in washing tests under the following conditions: temperature 40°C, rotational speed 200 rpm, 30 minute washing cycle, water hardness 5.35 mval/l, the concentration of liquid laundry detergents 1.25–50 g/l. The physicochemical analysis of colour, form, odour, pH, density, viscosity and content of anionic surfactants showed compliance with the manufacturers’ declarations. The studies demonstrated that with increasing laundry detergent concentration a gradual increase in detergency occurred. At the highest tested concentrations of 50 g/L, detergency of 18.1% and 22.2% for cheaper L1 and more expensive L2 products was achieved, respectively. Modification with the 5% addition of the zwitterionic sulfobetaine SB3C14 led to an improvement of the washing properties by 4.7% on average. At a concentration of 50 g/l, the modified L1 and L2 solutions demonstrated the highest detergency equal to 22.8% and 35.3%, respectively. This proves the existence of synergistic effect by the interaction of all ingredients in the solutions with higher concentrations. Microscopic analysis of EMPA 101 fabrics before and after washing processes showed no serious damage to the fibres, only the presence of slight fraying of individual ones. The results suggest that the SB3C14 sulfobetaine can be successfully used in liquid laundry detergents due to its very favourable surface properties.
Keywords: surfactants, zwitterionic sulfobetaine, detergency quality, liquid laundry detergents, colorimetric analysis

Citation: Kalak, T., Gałka, A., Wieczorek, D., Cierpiszewski, R., Piepiórka-Stepuk, J., The effect of N-tetradecyl-N,N-dimethyl-3-ammonio-1-propanesulfonate addition on washing properties of liquid laundry detergents, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 233–243,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1742

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Article: Thermal comfort properties of cotton/spandex single jersey knitted fabric

Authors: AMANY KHALIL, PAVLA TĚŠINOVÁ, ABDELHAMID R.R ABOALASAAD
Pages 244-249 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1760
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
Knitted fabrics are characterized by comfort compared to woven fabrics due to their high extensibility and air permeability, but they have lower dimensional stability after repeated washing especially single jersey knitted fabric (SJKF). Therefore, the spandex (Lycra) core-spun yarns are used to maintain the dimensions of knitted fabrics during use and after repeated stresses. In this study, nine elastic SJKF samples were produced at three levels of loop length and spandex percent using yarn linear density 30/1 Ne. For comparison, three 100% cotton knitted samples were produced with the same levels of loop length and yarn count. The dimensional and thermal comfort properties of the long-stretch samples were compared with the short-stretch cotton knitted fabric. The thermal comfort properties (thermal conductivity, resistance, absorptivity, and water vapour permeability), air permeability, and dimensional properties were measured and compared to 100% cotton samples. The results showed that the stitch density, fabric density, fabric thickness, and thermal resistance increased, whereas the air, water vapour permeability, and spirality angle decreased in cotton/spandex samples.
Keywords: thermal comfort properties, spandex, stretchable knitted fabrics, core-spun yarn, spirality angle, thickness

Citation: Khalil, A., Těšinová, P., Aboalasaad, A.R.R., Thermal comfort properties of cotton/spandex single jersey knitted fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 244–249,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1760

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Article: A study on detection of roving tension and fine control of yarn breakage

Authors: CUI PENG, XUE YUAN
Pages 250-255 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1757
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
The fine control of yarn breakage is essential for the production of better yarn quality by reducing the tension fluctuation of roving. The detection of roving tension provides important information regarding the yarn formation during spinning. In the present work, we developed a device for roving-tension detection and regulation, which greatly reduces the yarn breakage rate and improves the production efficiency of ring spinning. By analysing the factors affecting the roving tensions, we used a signal acquisition system in conjunction with the tension detection device to regulate the spindle rotate speed to realize the fine control of yarn breakage. Our results indicate that the proposed method can ensure a uniform spinning tension of the yarn in ring spinning, which significantly reduces the yarn breakage rate, and boost the yarn production. Our work paves the way toward the rational production of high-quality yarn.
Keywords: spinning frame, spinning tension, intelligent control, spindle rotate speed, breakage rate

Citation: Peng, C., Yuan, X., A study on detection of roving tension and fine control of yarn breakage, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 250–255,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1757


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Article: Modelling of tension in yarn package unwinding

Authors: STANISLAV PRAČEK, MARIANNA HALÁSZ
Pages 256-260 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1683
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
Yarn unwinding from a package is an essential step in many textile processes. The quality of the yarn is numerically expressed mainly by values of mechanical quantities. In the unwinding process viscoelastic properties are the most important ones. They depend on how the yarn is stressed. The quality of the yarn that is being unwound should not be reduced, unless this reduction doesn’t significantly lower the quality of the textile fabric. During unwind the yarn tension is not constant, but it oscillates within some interval. Even when the yarn is not strongly stressed, the yarn still can break sometimes. This is why we think that a cross-wound package is not an ideal form of a package and that such packages aren’t always made without flaws. We strive to achieve as large warping and weaving speeds as possible, therefore our aim is to improve the theory of cross-wound package unwinding and to find the necessary modifications of the yarn unwinding process.
Keywords: modelling, tension, dynamics of yarn, balloon theory, quasi-stationary approximation

Citation: Praček, S., Halász, M., Modelling of tension in yarn package unwinding, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 256–260,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1683

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Article: Design of the detecting platform for the electronic control rotary dobby

Authors: HONGHUAN YIN, HONGBIN YU, JUNQIANG PENG, HONGYU SHAO
Pages 261-267 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1751
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
In order to meet the factory detection requirements of the rotary electronic dobby, a new design of the detecting platform for the rotary electronic dobby was proposed in the present study. It was composed with three main modules to meet the different levels of detecting process all over the factory, including the embedded control system, human machine interface system and the information management system. For the information management system of the dobby workshop, the proposed platform performed the remote management, results monitor, and data analysis to the dobby manufactured at the factory. For the operators of the dobby detecting process, the human machine interface system realized the edit of pattern, the upload and download of the pattern data based through Wi-Fi, the control of motor speed, the test process record and the upload of the test results. Moreover, the embedded control system was developed and built to realize the real-time control to electromagnet and swing arms of dobby according to the pattern stored in flash chip and status display of the detecting results on the platform. The designed detecting platform in this article can be widely applied in the factory for detection of the rotary electronic dobby. The reliability and practicability of the proposed platform have been confirmed by the practical application of the dobby manufacturing enterprise.
Keywords: detecting platform, dobby control, information management, pattern design, rotary electronic dobby

Citation: Yin, H., Yu, H., Peng, J., Shao, H., Design of the detecting platform for the electronic control rotary dobby, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 261–267,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1751

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Article: Design of a TENS knee pad with integrated textile electrodes

Authors: DUYGU ERDEM AKGÜN, SEVIL YEŞİLPINAR, YAVUZ ŞENOL
Pages 268-273 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1700
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
Transcutaneous electrical nerve stimulation (TENS) is defined as the application of electrical current to the skin for pain control by the American Physical Therapy Association (APTA). The TENS treatment is extensively preferred since it is safe, not expensive and has no side effects when compared to drug therapy. TENS therapy is applied using clinical or portable type TENS devices and TENS electrodes. However, conventional electrodes are not hygienic because they are not washable and their sticky structure makes patients uncomfortable. Furthermore, they are not suitable to be integrated into a smart garment. In this study, a knee pad with integrated electrodes and textile transmission lines have been designed and developed to be used for TENS therapy. Electrical resistance values of textile electrodes and transmission lines which are integrated into the knee pad were measured. The developed knee pad was connected to a commercially available TENS device and electrical current transmission on subjects was tested. Furthermore, washing tests were conducted on the knee pad.
Keywords: electronic textiles, smart garment, conductive yarns, conductive materials

Citation: Akgün, D.E., Yeşilpinar, S., Şenol, Y., Design of a TENS knee pad with integrated textile electrodes, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 268–273,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1700

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Article: Research status and prospect of intelligent fibres and textiles

Authors: SHEN LEI, ZHANG XIYING, REN XIANGFANG, CHEN HAN
Pages 274-283 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1747
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
Intelligent fibre is a kind of fibre that integrates sensing and information processing. It is similar to biological materials and has intelligent functions such as self-perception, self-adaptation, self-diagnosis, and self-repair. Intelligent textiles refer to textiles that have sensing and responding functions to the environment. Intelligent fibres and their textiles not only have the ability to perceive and respond to external stimuli but also have the ability to adapt to the external environment. In recent years, the research on intelligent fibres has achieved many results in the world, and it is widely used in textiles and clothing industry. Therefore, this paper summarized the research status of intelligent fibre and intelligent textile worldwide, and put forward the research direction in the future. This paper introduced the properties and research status of five kinds of main intelligent fibres, including phase change fibre, shape memory fibre, smart hydrogel fibre, optical fibre and electronic intelligent fibre, and summarized their application in textiles. This paper also introduced the research status of five important intelligent textiles, including intelligent temperature control textile, shape memory textiles, waterproof and moisture permeable textile, intelligent antibacterial textile and electronic intelligent textile. Moreover, it forecasted the development prospects of intelligent fibres and textiles, and pointed out development direction in three aspects of performance optimization, green and safety, industrialization. It provided research reference and guidance for future intelligent fibre and intelligent textile.
Keywords: intelligent fibres, intelligent textiles, phase change fibre, shape memory fibre, smart, hydrogel fibre

Citation: Lei, S., Xiying, Z., Xiangfang, R., Han, C., Research status and prospect of intelligent fibres and textiles, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 274–283,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1747

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Article: Heritage ethnographic objects – antimicrobial effects of chitosan treatment

Authors: LILIANA INDRIE, MARILÉS BONET-ARACIL, DORINA CAMELIA ILIEȘ, ADINA VICTORIA ALBU, GABRIELA ILIEŞ, GRIGORE VASILE HERMAN, ȘTEFAN BAIAS, MONICA COSTEA
Pages 284-288 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1812
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
Chitosan is a natural polymer, which presents, according to studies made up to present, low toxicity and good biocompatibility. Recent studies are focused not only on its antimicrobial effects on textiles, because this polysaccharide leads to improvements such as: shrink resistance, dye uptake etc.
Two Romanian traditional shirts were non-invasively tested by applying Chitosan and by investigating the SEM images, before and after applying the chitosan. The paper underlines the surface modifications of tested textiles using chitosan. The odd agents on the fibres surfaces were removed and the limitation of the number of microorganisms was observed.
Keywords: chitosan, ethnographic textiles, SEM images

Citation: Indrie, L., Bonet-Aracil, M., Ilieș, D.C., Albu, A.V., Ilieș, G., Herman, G.V., Baias, Ș., Costea, M., Heritage ethnographic objects – antimicrobial effects of chitosan treatment, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 284–288,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1812

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Article: Criteria for sportswear preference of Turkish runners

Author: ÖZGE URAL
Pages 289-299 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1799
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
Nowadays, while the importance of doing sports for a healthy life is spreading all over the world, consumers expect some performance and functional properties from sports products. It is expected that the sportswear must be in harmony with the body, do not create discomfort and do not affect the performance. The comfort of sportswear is an important criterion that affects the performance and motivates the athlete. There are dynamic and fundamental changes in the preferences of sports people with the change in the context; type of sports, the geography they live in, season, climate, their cultural, demographic and anthropologic characteristics, etc. While offering sportswear products to the market, brands should pay attention not only to quality parameters, but also to these criteria.
This article aims to determine Turkish runners’ sportswear preference criteria and expectations that are evaluated against past experiences and present desires. For the study, data were collected from 195 runners and statistically analyzed. With the data obtained from the questionnaires, the runner and running habits were analyzed, the perspective of sportswear shopping and purchasing preference criteria, sportswear size and fit issues, evaluation of the fabric properties, and the demands of the runners for sportswear were determined.
This research gives resourceful information for sportswear manufacturers and comfort researchers since the compiled consumer feedback from runners provide tools for product improvement to enhance utility.
Keywords: sportswear, runner, preference criteria, shopping behaviour

Citation: Ural, Ö., Criteria for sportswear preference of Turkish runners, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 289–299  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1799

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Article: The role of financial literacy and risk tolerance: an analysis of gender differences in the textile sector of Pakistan

Authors: LI NAIWEN, ZHANG WENJU, MUHAMMAD MOHSIN, MUHAMMAD ZIA UR REHMAN, SOBIA NASEEM, AMINA AFZAL
Pages 300-308 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.202023
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
This research explores the effect of financial literacy and risk tolerance on decisions making for investment by men and women in the textile sector of Pakistan. It examines the role of risk tolerance as mediator in relation between financial literacy and individual’s investment decision making. It also examines the moderating effect of gender difference between financial literacy and risk tolerance. Collection of research data was done from the 300 respondents in the textile sector of Faisalabad through the self-administered questionnaire by using convenient sampling. This research work represented the facts that financial literacy has a positive and significant relationship with risk tolerance, and investment decisions are significantly influenced by it. Risk tolerance has a positive and insignificant impact on investment decisions.
In contrast, the mediation role of risk tolerance is insignificant between the financial literacy level of individuals and decisions made by them for investment. The purpose of a moderator as gender differences is significant. This study empowers managers to provide basics financial services to employees. Management might be guided that what should be highlighted and what has to be improved to enhance the financial literacy level of textile workers. Employers can play a vital role in building awareness and to educate their employees on fiscal wellness, investment planning, and retirement. Financial literacy can also help employees to achieve commercial success, and it is fruitful in providing benefit plans at work and in their financial affairs.
Keywords: financial literacy, risk tolerance, investment decisions, innovation, PLS-SEM, textiles application

Citation: Naiwen, L., Wenju, Z., Mohsin, M., Zia Ur Rehman, M., Naseem, S., Afzal, A., The role of financial literacy and risk tolerance: an analysis of gender differences in the textile sector of Pakistan, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 300–308,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.202023

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Article: Investigation of ergonomic working conditions of sewing and cutting machine operators of clothing industry

Authors: AFTAB AHMAD, IQRA JAVED, USAMA ABRAR, ASHFAQ AHMAD, NASIF RAZA JAFFRI, AMJAD HUSSAIN
Pages 309-314 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1723
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
The textile industry is a very labour intensive industry which mainly comprises of small and medium enterprises (SMEs). In developing countries, usually occupational health and safety programs are focused on large-scale organisations. A cross-sectional study on evaluating ergonomics risk factors associated with task performing strategies has been carried out at cutting and sewing units of a garment industry organisation. A reliable direct observational ergonomics risk assessment method Rapid Entire Body Assessment (REBA) was used to find out the risk associated with working postures adopted by the workers. Data was collected through physical observations, walkthrough, interviews, and video recordings. Data analysis was carried out on 180 selected postures by using REBA method. It concluded that overall working strategies were poorly designed as more than 30% of postures highlighted a high level of risk of MSDs that necessitates immediate investigation for improvement. Major causes of risk were linked with the postural movements attached with the wrist, lower arm, and neck. The findings of the study add to the understanding of working conditions of cutting and sewing activities at garment manufacturing industries, these could help in the design of ergonomics interventions for reducing musculoskeletal symptoms and improving job quality which eventually increases work productivity.
Keywords: musculoskeletal disorders, textile industry, sewing and cutting machine operators, REBA

Citation: Ahmad, A., Javed, I., Abrar, U., Ahmad, A., Jaffri, N.R., Hussain, A., Investigation of ergonomic working conditions of sewing and cutting machine operators of clothing industry, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 309–314,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1723

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Article: Optimizing content of Pyrovatex CP New and Knittex FFRC in flame retardant treatment for cotton fabric

Authors: NGUYEN THI HUONG, VU THI HONG KHANH, NGUYEN PHAM DUY LINH
Pages 315-323 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1648
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
In this study, the flame-retardant treatment for cotton fabric has been done by using the commercial organophosphorus compounds labelled Pyrovatex CP New (PR). Knittex FFRC (K), a formaldehyde-free crosslinking agent, has been used to enhance the link between Pyrovatex CP New and Cellulose molecules. The flame-retardant treatment process for cotton fabric has been done by the pad-dry-cure technique. The purpose of the study is to predict the optimal Pyrovatex CP New and Knittex FFRC concentrations with the highest fire resistance efficiency, minimum loss for mechanical properties and minimum formaldehyde release for the treated fabric. To achieve this goal, the response surface methodology (RSM) was used to find the relationship between the controlled experimental factors and the observed results. The central composite design type face centred (CCF) was applied as experimental design. According to this experimental design, 10 experiments were carried out. The chemical uptake rate, vertical flammability characteristics, LOI value, tensile strength and formaldehyde-free content of the untreated and treated samples were determined. Four response models between the reagent concentrations and the add-on amount, LOI value, warp and weft tensile strength of the treated fabric were obtained by the assistance of software Design-Expert V 10.0.8. The R-squared values of these models were above 80% confirming their significances. The optimal conditions when combining three parameters (LOI, warp tensile strength and weft tensile strength) were selected as 450 g/l Pyrovatex CP New and 107,575 g/l Knittex FFRC with the assistance of Design-Expert software.
Keywords: cotton, Pyrovatex CP New, Knittex FFRC, durable flame retardant, response surface methodology, central composite designs

Citation: Huong, N.T., Khanh, V.T.H., Linh, N.P.D., Optimizing content of Pyrovatex CP New and Knittex FFRC in flame retardant treatment for cotton fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 315–323,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1648

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Article: Forecasting the conditional heteroscedasticity of stock returns using asymmetric models based on empirical evidence from Eastern European countries: Will there be an impact on other industries?

Authors: ELIZABETH COKER-FARRELL, ZULFIQAR ALI IMRAN, CRISTI SPULBAR, ABDULLAH EJAZ, RAMONA BIRAU, RADU CĂTĂLIN CRIVEANU
Pages 324-330 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.202042
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
This empirical study investigates the leverage effect in six Eastern European countries under normal and non-normal distribution densities for the sample period from January 2020 to August 2020. We find three countries, Bulgaria, Czech Republic and Russia which are subject to ARCH effect whereas Poland, Romania and Hungary do not exhibit ARCH effect in daily stock returns. Further, our study finds leverage effect, where past bad news affects is asymmetrical, past negative returns cause more volatility in current stock returns as compared to past positive returns, in three Eastern European countries. Based on the AIC and BIC model selection criteria we find that the non-normal student t-distribution and GED produce reliable estimates for Bulgaria, Czech Republic and Poland, respectively. The autocorrelation function Q1 statistic confirms the insignificance of autocorrelation in residuals of TGARCH model. The impact of stock market dynamics on other industries, such as pharmaceutical industry, textile and clothing industry, automotive industry is significant, especially in the conditions of COVID-19 pandemic.
Keywords: stock market, Eastern European countries, TGARCH model, leverage effect, return

Citation: Coker-Farrell, E., Imran, Z.A., Spulbar, C., Ejaz, A., Birau, R., Criveanu, R.C., Forecasting the conditional heteroscedasticity of stock returns using asymmetric models based on empirical evidence from Eastern European countries: Will there be an impact on other industries?, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 324–330,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.202042

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Article: The effect of raw material combination, yarn count, fabric structure and loop length on the thermal properties of Eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics

Authors: SATHISH T. KUMAR, RAMESH M. KUMAR, SENTHIL B. KUMAR
Pages 331-339 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.202032
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
Eri silk is one of the wild silk varieties which are mainly available in the north-eastern areas of India. It exhibits good mechanical and thermal resistance properties. In this concern, the present study focused to develop a bi-layer knitted structure made from Eri silk yarn as one side(next to skin) and on another side bamboo yarn knitted fabric. Similarly, Tencel knitted fabric was used instead of bamboo. Twenty-four bi-layer knitted fabrics were developed and then analysed for its thermal comfort property. The air permeability, and wick-ability were found to be higher and the thermal resistance was found to be higher for bi-layer plated interlocked knitted fabric made out of Eri silk compared to bamboo and Tencel.
Keywords: bamboo, Eri silk, Tencel, thermal resistance, thermal conductivity

Citation: Kumar, S.T., Kumar, R.M., Kumar, S.B., The effect of raw material combination, yarn count, fabric structure and loop length on the thermal properties of Eri silk bi-layer knitted fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 331–339,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.202032

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Article: Textile fibres in product design

Authors: İFFET ERCAN PALA, ÇIĞDEM PAZARBAŞI KAYA
Pages 340-345 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1673
Published online: June 2021

Abstract
High-performance fibres, especially carbon and glass fibres are used typically in many industries due of their performance. In addition to being widely used in industry, these fibres have attracted the attention of designers in recent years. In this research, a selection of innovative products that have received awards in international design competitions such as RedDot and IF and the use of carbon and glass fibres have been examined.
Research topics and objectives in the textile engineering literature include fibre production and performance analyses, but there are limited studies on their use and their impact in daily life. In this research, the use of high-performance fibres designed in innovative consumer products will be demonstrated to provide information on how these fibres meet everyday people as consumers to improve their lives. This research also aims to create common studying areas for two different disciplines.
Keywords: glass fibre, carbon fibre, industrial product design, material selection, interdisciplinary

Citation: Pala, I.E., Kaya, Ç.P., Textile fibres in product design, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 3, 340–345,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.03.1673

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