Issue 4 / 2019 
New 3D to 2D design method of clothing for teenagers
Authors: GEORGETA POPESCU, SABINA OLARU, CLAUDIA NICULESCU, TRAIAN FOIAȘI, ADRIAN SĂLIȘTEAN
Pages: 299-302
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1585
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
Adolescence is a transition period and involves physical changes and also changes in behavior and personality. Products for teenagers are characterized by a wide variety of shapes and styles. A large proportion in the teenagers clothing style is represented by body-adjusted products, so it’s very important to establish a good match between them. Nowadays, a clothing product can be developed with existing performance tools such as pattern design software, 3D scanning for anthropometric data acquisition and 2D/3D simulation, modelling and fitting software. However, these are not enough for the development of high-performance products, unless the knowledge and experience of a engineer/ researcher specialist and stylist is involved. The paper presents the new 3D to 2D design method of clothing for teenagers, based on current anthropometric 3D data from the anthropometric standard developed by INCDTP. The innovative design method for obtaining the 2D basic patterns from the 3D product uses as tools the 3D Flattening module of the Optitex PDS, and offers the pattern designer the advantage of previewing the shape of the product and its correspondence with body size. The module is newly developed by the Optitex PDS software, existing in INCDTP endowment. Another innovation is to replace the classic grading of patterns, for different sizes and configurations, with the modeling of the mannequin by replacing standardized anthropometric dimensions. The markings remain in the position corresponding to the anthropometric points, moving proportionally with the replaced anthropometric dimensions.
Keywords: teenagers’ clothing, patterns design, 3D simulation, anthropometric standard
Citation: Popescu, G., Olaru, S., Niculescu, C., Foiași, T., Săliștean, A., New 3D to 2D design method of clothing for teenagers, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 299-302, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1585
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Article: An efficient ultrasonic and microwave assisted extraction of organic Henna dye for dyeing of synthetic polyester fabric for superior color strength properties
Authors: SAMAD ARAIN RABIA, HUSSAIN PEERZADA MAZHAR, BASHEER ARAIN SAMAD, AYOUB ARBAB ALVIRA
Pages 303-308
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1551
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
An energy efficient and ‘green’ extraction technique for extraction of organic Henna dye has been proposed for the dyeing of synthetic polyester fabric with high fastness and color strength properties to fulfill the world’s highest demand towards energy efficient and ‘green’ processes and products and compared with conventional solvent extraction methods. The ultrasonic and microwave extraction methods were further analyzed and optimized in terms of extraction time and liquor ratio. To observe the effect of pH on the natural dyeing of polyester with Henna dye, dyeing were carried out at two different pH. Ultrasonic and microwave techniques noticeably extracted Henna dye with in less time than conventional solvent extraction method. High color strength and fastness properties were observed with ultrasonic and microwave extracted Henna dyeing of polyester fabrics.
Keywords: Henna natural dyes, microwave assisted extraction, organic dyeing, polyester fabrics, ultrasonic assisted extraction
Citation: Rabia, S.A., Mazhar, H.P., Samad, B.A., Alvira, A.A., An efficient ultrasonic and microwave assisted extraction of organic Henna dye for dyeing of synthetic polyester fabric for superior color strength properties, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 303-308, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1551
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Article: Analysis of thermo-physiological comfort properties of 100% acrylic, acrylic/cotton, acrylic/viscose and acrylic/PES blended woven fabrics
Authors: ARZU YAVAŞCAOĞLU, RECEP EREN, GÜLCAN SÜLE
Pages 309-317
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1546
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
In this study, thermo-physiological comfort properties of woven fabrics produced with %100 acrylic, cotton, viscose and PES weft as well as acrylic/PES, acrylic/cotton and acrylic/viscose weft mixing were investigated. For this purpose, 35 different fabrics were woven with acrylic warp and acrylic, cotton, PES, viscose, acrylic/cotton, acrylic/viscose andacrylic/PES weft yarns, with three different weft densities and plain, twill and satin weaves. Analysis of results showedthat the effect of yarn material and weft density on thermal resistance was not observed. It was seen that weave typehad an effect on thermal resistance, thermal absorbtivity and air permeability of the fabrics. Air permeability values offabrics woven with plain weave were lower than those of satin and twill weaves. The air permeability decreased whenweft density was increased. According to statistical evaluation, yarn type or yarn material had significant effect and weftdensity and weave had no significant effect on water vapour resistance.
Keywords: acrylic, woven fabrics, thermo-physiological comfort, water vapour resistance, air permeability
Citation: Yavaşcaoğlu, A., Eren, R., Süle, G., Analysis of thermo-physiological comfort properties of 100% acrylic, acrylic/cotton, acrylic/viscose and acrylic/PES blended woven fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 309-317, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1546
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Article: Optimization of fabric drape measurement based on 3D model
Authors: AZMAT HUSSAIN, TAYYAB NAVEED, DANISH IQBAL, ZHICAI YU, WANG XIN, IQBAL WAQAR, YUEQI ZHONG
Pages 318-323
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1552
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
Drapability is an important characteristic of fabric appearance, mainly correlates to its stiffness. It is evaluated objectivelywith a dominant indicator, drape coefficient (DC). Drape coefficient is based on the two-dimensional projection-area of three-dimensional (3D) draped sample. In this study, three dimensional (3D) drape-model is evaluated and a new basis of the area is revealed with slice function. The proposed area was calculated using a horizontal plane that cut the 3D drape-model (slice curve) just above the highest point of actual boundary-curve. Modified drape coefficient (MDC) was compared with DC against bending stiffness. The results demonstrate that the bending stiffness has better conformance with MDC than that of DC. This implies that MDC is more effective in evaluating fabric drapabiliy.
Keywords: bending stiffness, drape projection, modified drape coefficient, slice function, three dimensional drape
Citation: Hussain, A., Naveed, T., Iqbal, D., Yu, Z., Xin, W, Waqar, I., Zhong, Y., Optimization of fabric drape measurement based on 3D model, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 318-323, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1552
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Article: Theoretical model: analysing theoretically the air flow through car seat foam material
Authors: MAZARI FUNDA BUYUK, MAZARI ADNAN, HAVELKA ANTONIN, ADAMEK KAREL
Pages 324-330
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1559B
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
Comfort of car seats is very important property for cars. Air permeability is directly related to the breath ability and comfort of car seats. In this research car seat Poly Urethane (PU) foam with different holes are tested for the air permeability and numerically simulated to predict the flow of air through thick foams. Model of detailed geometry gives good view about detailed flow field (pressure and velocity) in foam volume, influenced by perforations and grooves. But simulated flow is several times different from measured one. The main flow is through perforations (99%) and flow through foam is of two orders lower. Using homogeneous geometry with “averaged” permeability parameters were evaluated from measured values. The coincidence of measured and simulated flow is very good, difference of 1–5%. But it is not possible to get any details of flow in foam volume.
Keywords: air permeability, flow numerical simulation, thick foams
Citation: Buyuk, F., M., Adnan, M., Antonin, H., Karel, A., Theoretical model: analysing theoretically the air flow through car seatfoam material, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 324-330, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1559B
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Article: Basic modeling of the visco elastic behavior of flax fiber composites
Authors: CONSTANTIN STOCHIOIU, BENOIT PIEZEL, AMEUR CHETTAH, STEPHANE FONTAINE, HORIA GHEORGHIU
Pages 331-335
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1512
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
In the middle of the 20th century, fiber reinforced composites became mainstream, with carbon and glass fibers at the forefront of this developing industry. However, they have certain disadvantages which have driven the research towards the discovery of novel materials. Today’s demands go towards cheap and renewable materials. It has been proven that flax fiber possesses some of the best mechanical properties of bio-reinforcements, close to the ones of the glass fibers.These advantages, together with a lower density than glass and the possibility of recycling have made the flax fiber reinforcement a candidate for the next generation of composites. Along with these strong points, comes a behavior, which, for the composites mentioned earlier, can often be neglected: the time dependent behavior. The present work aims at studying this property and to propose a basic model for its evolution. The analyzed composite is an epoxy resin reinforced by long flax fibers, oriented at ±45°, which show the shear behavior of the material. The experimental procedure consists of a tensile test to determine the mechanical properties of the composite on this direction and to establish the stress levels for the time dependent tests. Secondly, four levels of creep recovery tests are conducted with a creep of one hour and recovery of five hours. In the last part of the paper, linear modeling of this phenomenon is presented, based on the Zener and Burger models.
Keywords: bio-composites, viscoelasticity, Zener model, Burger model
Citation: Stochioiu, C., Piezel, B., Chettah, A., Fontaine, S., Gheorghiu, H.-M., Basic modeling of the visco elastic behavior of flax fiber composites, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 331-335, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1512
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Article: Studying the corporate social responsibility in apparel and textile industry
Authors: DRAGOLJUB B. ĐORĐEVIĆ, MILOVAN VUKOVIĆ, SNEŽANA UROŠEVIĆ, NADA ŠTRBAC, ALEKSANDRA VUKOVIĆ
Pages 336-341
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1572
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
In the apparel and textile industry in developing countries, there is a confusion over the definition of CSR, and, consequently, this conceptual vagueness reflects itself on the research of the phenomenon and the practices of CSR. Small and medium enterprises and large companies are eager to incorporate the concept of corporate social responsibility (CSR) within their business strategies, policies and practices, especially in the era of globalization and international trade. This literature review articles aims to bring a better introduction to the field of corporate social responsibility (CSR) as studied by apparel/textile industry scholars. The first part of this review summarizes the different definitions, theories about CSR, and methods that have been used by management scholars working in the CSR field in both academic and practitioner management journals. As large corporations integrate the principles of CSR into their business policies and practices, company employees are expected to follow actions regarding the adopted corporate values. The authors in the second part of this review discuss different CSR frameworks applicable to the apparel/textile industry practice. The analysis shows that the CSR field is still evolving and the authors provide a set of recommendations on how to advance the CSR field to be applicable to the apparel/textile industry. Finally, the last part of this review highlights some methodological issues, originating from the adopted theoretical perspectives on CSR. A comparative review of different research approaches (quantitative/qualitative, inductive/deductive, explorative/descriptive/explanatory) is also given.
Keywords: corporate social responsibility (CSR), theoretical perspectives, apparel/textile industry, research approaches
Citation: Đorđević, D.B., Vuković, M., Urošević, S., Štrbac, N., Vuković, A., Studying the corporate social responsibility in apparel and textile industry, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 336-341, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1572
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Article: Digitisation and Industry 4.0 in the Portuguese T&C sector
Authors: HA LUU, FERNANDO FERREIRA, ANTÓNIO DINIS MARQUES
Pages 342-345
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1612
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
Industry 4.0 is a key topic in the discussion about the future of Textile and Clothing (T&C) industry in Europe. This 4th Industrial Revolution is a vision, an important change of the current paradigm, able to make the convergence between real and digital world in the future “smart factory”. The integration of Cyber-Physical Systems (CPS), the Internet of the Things (IoT), the Big Data Analytics and Cloud Computing, Artificial Intelligence, Robotics, Virtual modelling or Digitisation of the industrial processes are some of the main topics in this new challenges. Technologies as bar code devices, RFID, sensors, Bluetooth, GPS or 3D simulators starts to be present in the textile and clothing industry. This article will present how a clothing company (GUIMA, SOMELOS SGPS) is defining its strategy to face the demanding from their clients and stakeholders. In order to adapt the theories and models known from I4.0 to GUIMA’s reality, as RFID in the fabrics and accessories to allow real-time updates of the stocks, all the planning is done with the IoS system,the cutting plans and production orders are assisted by a 3D system and the different batches are incorporated RFID tags. The ICT companies are critical partners in this partnership, but also the HEI, the scientific community and technological centres.
Keywords: Digitisation, Cyber-Physical Systems, RFID, smart factory
Citation: Luu, H., Ferreira, F., Marques, A., Digitisation and Industry 4.0 in the Portuguese T&C sector, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 342-345, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1612
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Article: The importance of the Dacron cuffs in peritoneal dialysis catheters for acute kidney injury applied in veterinary medicine
Authors: BOGDAN ALEXANDRU VIȚĂLARU, ALEXANDRA GABRIELA ENE, LAURENŢIU ALEXANDRU CHIOTOROIU
Pages 346-349
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1685
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
Peritoneal dialysis is a technique indicated in patients showing acute nonanuric uremia, when blood urea nitrogen (BUN)reaches levels over 100mg/dl or when creatinine is higher than 10mg/dl. Catheters for acute dialysis are placed percutaneously, under local anaesthesia and catheters designed for chronic peritoneal dialysis have two Dacron cuffs and are placed under general anaesthesia. In this study we have selected 24 dogs, both males and females with age between two and 14 years old, with AKI, undergoing peritoneal dialysis between 14 days and 29 days. We have created two groups of patients: group (A) treated using a normal peritoneal catheter for acute treatment, without Dacron cuffs and the second group (B) treated using a peritoneal catheter for chronic treatment, with two Dacron cuffs. 75% of patients from the first group were found with accumulation of the dialysate solution at the subcutaneous level, which shows that Dacron cuffs are very efficient in preventing the peritoneal fluid to leak under the skin. Surgical omentectomyis strongly recommended due to the high risk of catheter blockage by the omentum, but it is recommended to be performed under maximum safety with regard to asepsis and antisepsis conditions. Peritonitis is a very important complication of the peritoneal dialysis technique, 33.33% from the first group, presenting this complication, and only 8.33% form the second group having it.
Keywords: peritoneal, dialysis, catheter, Dacron, cuffs, veterinary
Citation: Vițălaru, B.A., Ene, A.G., Chiotoroiu, L.A., The importance of the Dacron cuffs in peritoneal dialysis catheters for acute kidney injury applied in veterinary medicine, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 346-349, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1685
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Article: Quality optimization of ring spun yarns produced from blends of regenerated cellulosic fibres with cotton and polyester
Author: ESIN SARIOĞLU
Pages 350-357
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1630
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
Regenerated cellulosic fibres are mainly used with the blends of cotton and polyester with different proportion on different spinning systems to meet specific consumer demands in textile industry. This study conducts the properties and quality optimization of 19.7 tex ring spun yarns made from Viloft®, ProModal® and Bamboo regenerated cellulosic fibres blended with polyester and cotton at different proportion (100%, 67–33%, 50–50%, 33–67%). Yarn properties such as tensile strength and elongation, unevenness, imperfection index and hairiness were evaluated and compared to determine the effects of blend type, fibre type and blend ratio. Furthermore, numerical optimization method was developed to estimate optimum yarn quality parameters for the best response variables of tensile strength and elongation, unevenness, imperfection index and hairiness properties.
Keywords: Bamboo, ProModal®, ring spun yarn, quality optimization, Viloft®
Citation: Sarioğlu, E., Quality optimization of ring spun yarns produced from blends of regenerated cellulosic fibres with cotton and polyester, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 350-357, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1630
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Article: Sensory analysis of textiles: case study of an assortment of stretch denim fabrics
Authors: RODICA HARPA, CRISTINA PIROI, IRINA CRISTIAN, EMILIA VISILEANU, MIRELA BLAGA
Pages 358-365
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1697
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
The manufacturers, in their strategy to expand the garment collections, as a prompt reaction to the global market changes, are aware that the sensorial comfort is of the utmost importance, next to the quality profile of fabrics, and depends on the personal perception of purchasers. This research focused upon the sensory assessment of the tactile properties of an assortment of seventy stretch denim fabrics produced from seven articles in the loom-state phase. By combining two types of right-hand twill, with 100% cotton yarns in the warp and six mixture types as core-spun yarns in the weft, the fabrics were subjected to six pre-finishing processes and subsequently, to four washing techniques. The standards’ guidelines on conducting the sensory analysis trials as descriptive tests were respected, with one exception: the panel consisted of sixteen assessors without experience. The statistical analysis of the extensive amount of sensory data was approached by the interactive ICT-based learning tools previously developed STAT-Hand and STAT-ConCor. The results showed changes in the six bipolar sensory attributes, as fabric hand descriptors, for the wide range of stretch denim fabrics. Since these changes of the sensorial comfort were perceptible for a panel of naive assessors, the potential stretch denim jeans’ purchasers could also notice them. Therefore, this could be a good strategy for denim manufacturers to get the right feedback in their effort to continuously upgrade the fabrics sensorial comfort.
Keywords: assessors, sensory analysis, sensorial comfort, stretch denim, tactile properties
Citation: Harpa, R., Piroi, C., Cristian, I., Visileanu, E., Blaga, M., Sensory analysis of textiles: case study of an assortment of stretch denim fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 358-365, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1697
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Article: Performance enhancement of diammonium hydrogen phosphate as halogen and formaldehyde free sustainable fire retardant
Authors: HAJI GHULAM QUTAB, MUHAMMAD MOHSIN, NAVEED RAMZAN, SYED WAQAS AHMAD, ELENA CORNELIA MITRAN
Pages 366-373
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1606
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
Phosphorous based fire retardants are commonly used for imparting fire retardancy to the cotton fabric. However, most of the effective phosphorous based fire retardants for textile contain toxic halogen and/or formaldehyde. Diammonium hydrogen phosphate does not contain halogen or formaldehyde but its performance is far less than the commercially available fire retardants. Therefore, in this research Diammonium hydrogen phosphate was polymerized with zero formaldehyde based cross-linkers like acrylic acid and maleic acid. Concentrations of monomers and initiator, polymerization conditions and temperature were optimized. Newly developed recipe treated fabric exhibited good fire retardancy performance as well as additional properties of shrinkage control, easy care and anti-microbial. Analytical testing of SEM, FTIR and phosphorous content also confirmed the successful application of the finish.
Keywords: fire retardant, easy carefinishing, shrinkage control, anti-microbial, phosphate salt
Citation: Qutab, H.G., Mohsin, M., Ramzan, N., Ahmad, S.W., Mitran, E.C., Performance enhancement of diammonium hydrogen phosphate as halogen and formaldehyde free sustainable fire retardant, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 366-373, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1606
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Article: Study on factors influencing customer leaving an apparel store without a purchase
Authors: SUNDARARAMAN BANUMATHY, RAMALINGAM NEELAKANDAN
Pages 374-378
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1556
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
In retailing, many customers quit the store without a purchase due to various factors. In order to understand the influencing factors on customer leaving store without a purchase, a detailed study was conducted. For the study, data was collected from 1838 customers at an apparel store and statistically analyzed using factor analysis method was performed, to identify reasons for a customer leaving a store without a purchase. Factor analysis grouped 21 influencing variables into three major factors namely –Merchandise, Service, and Sales personnel. Among them, merchandise-based reasons like availability of fashionable products; preferred brand and quality were found to be a major factor influencing customers to leave the store without making a purchase. Based on the findings, implications for retailers were drawn. The systematic study of the factors influencing the customer to drop a purchase was limited in apparel retailing. Hence the present work will be very useful for the apparel retailers to satisfy customers in a better manner.
Keywords: customer dissatisfaction, defection, merchandise, product non-availability, apparel
Citation: Banumathy, S., Neelakandan, R., Study on factors influencing customer leaving an apparel store without a purchase, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 374-378, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1556
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Article: Effect of coating ratio and weft density on some physical properties of upholstery fabrics
Author: GIZEM KARAKAN GÜNAYDIN
Pages 379-385
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1695
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
This paper aims to examine the effects of coating ratio (g/m2) and weft density (picks/cm) on some mechanical properties of coated fabrics such as abrasion, pilling, air permeability and seam slippage strength in warp and weft direction of fabrics. In this research, 100% Polyester upholstery fabrics were woven at three levels of weft density as 5, 7 and 9 picks/cm on Dornier weaving machine with the same warp density of 8 ends/cm. Three coating ratios were selected as 30 g/m2, 60 g/m2 and 90 g/m2 for applying acrylic foam coating substance to the upholstery fabrics. 18 different coated fabrics were produced under controlled production processes where half of them were sent to an additional process of needle punching before coating and half of them were not. Plain type upholstery fabrics were evaluated in terms of abrasion, pilling grade, air permeability and seam slippage strength forces in warp and weft directions. According to test results, pilling results of upholstery fabrics which were exposed to only coating process were more satisfying comparing to coated needle punched fabric groups. According to two-way ANOVA test; coating ratio was a significant factor among the coated fabrics where as coating ratio, weft density and their interaction were insignificant factors among the coated needle punched upholstery fabrics with respect to abrasion results in terms of fabrics’ massloss (%). Air permeability property, seam slippage strength in weft direction were significantly affected by the weft density, coating ratio and their interaction among the coated and coated needle punched fabric groups. Weft density was an insignificant factor for the seam slippage strength values in warp direction among the coated fabric groups at significance level of 0.05.
Keywords: weft density, coating ratio, upholstery fabric, air permeability, seam slippage
Citation: Günaydin, G.K., Effect of coating ratio and weft density on some physical properties of upholstery fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 379-385, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1695
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Article: Color matching model of woven fabric produced by multi-color blended rotor spun wool yarn
Authors: RUI HUA YANG, YAYA XU, CHUN PING XIE, BO JUN XU, HONG BO WANG, WEI DONG GAO
Pages 386-390
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.04.1586
Published online: August 2019
Abstract
Multi-color blended wool yarn was spun by three-channel rotor spinning technology, and the color feature of the corresponding woven fabric was studied. Blended yarns with different color mixing ratios are spun by pure rovings of red, yellow and blue wool, and then woven as fabric. The color blending model of Kubelka-Munk double constant theory for the woven fabrics was established using two methods: least squares method and relative value method. The model was verified by calculating color difference of the fabric sample and the blending proportion of colored fiber. The results showed that mean color differences of the samples predicted by the model is less than 1.0 using either method. The average blending ratio error of the colored fibers calculated using the model by the above methods is 1.77% and 2.38%, respectively. It can be obtained that compared with relative value method, the least squares method is better for K-Mmodel to predict color blending effect and the blending ratio of the samples.
Keywords: K-M theory; blending effect; prediction; color difference; blending ratio
Citation: Yang, R.H., Xu, Y., Xie, C.P., Xu, B.J., Wang, H.B., Gao, W.D., Color matching model of woven fabric produced by multi-color blended rotor spun wool yarn, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 4, 386-390, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.04.1586
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