Issue 6 / 2021

Inner covers

Article: Comparison of sensorial comfort properties of different cotton fabrics using the Kawabata Evaluation System

Author: EMİNE UTKUN
Pages: 587-594
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.20217
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

Cotton fabrics are among the most preferred fabrics for both underwear and outerwear. The sensory comfort properties of the fabrics are important for consumers’ choice of clothing. The majority of consumers visually like the clothes that they buy and try to feel these features sensually by touching them, and then, they may want to try the garment or they can make direct purchasing decisions according to these tactile feelings.
In this study, the sensorial properties of a double-layered cotton fabric developed for use as a garment were compared and evaluated with cotton plain woven and interlock fabrics currently used in the market for this purpose. Sensorial comfort properties of the fabrics were researched with KES-F Kawabata equipment.
Keywords: sensorial comfort properties, Kawabata Evaluation System, cotton fabrics, clothing comfort, double-layered fabric

Citation: Utkun, E., Comparison of sensorial comfort properties of different cotton fabrics using the Kawabata Evaluation System, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 587-594,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.20217

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Article: Investigation of frictional impact on polyester yarn during knitting

Authors: ALI AFZAL, ABDUL WAQAR RAJPUT, HAFSA JAMSHAID, SAJID HUSSAIN, SYEDA SIDRA BATOOL, USMAN ALI
Pages 595-600 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1785
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

The usage of polyester (PET) in fabrication is increasing day by day due to its properties, ease of physical and chemical modification. The aim of this work is to understand the effect of temperature on Polyester (PET) during knitting. For checking the rise of temperature Infrared (IR) camera is used. Microscopic images are used for studying the effect of temperature on fibre/yarn structure. Morphological analysis is also done by X-ray diffraction (XRD) which shows disturbance of polymeric chains, causing change in crystal size due to elevated temperature. The beads formation and filament breakage are clearly seen in images. Due to this knitting fault, shade variation after dyeing occurred. It is concluded that structural morphology of polyester yarn changes due to friction of yarn with knitting machine parts. Fabric appearance and fabric quality also disturbed which leads to rejections and high losses.
Keywords: polyester (PET), weft knitting, friction, structure and properties

Citation: Afzal, A., Rajput, A.W., Jamshaid, H., Hussain, S., Batool, S.S., Ali, U., Investigation of frictional impact on polyester yarn during knitting, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 595-600,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1785

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Article: An investigation of the thermo-mechanical fusing process of innovative textile material

Authors: SNEZHINA ANDONOVA, ALEKSEY STEFANOV, IVAN AMUDZHEV
Pages 601-605 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1832
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

The process of thermo-mechanical fusing (TMF) is one of the major technological processes in the sewing industry. The quality of the sewing article as a whole depends largely on the effective implementation of this process. The good appearance of the finished product and the preservation of the shapes given during the operation of the product depend on the proper choice of the parameters for the TMF. It is therefore important to carry out research to optimize this process. On the other hand, new and different textile materials (TM) with more complex structure and multicomponent composition have appeared in recent years. This determines the different properties of each TM. Therefore, it is extremely important to conduct numerous preliminary studies and analyses to determine the specific effective values for defining the TMF process for a particular type of TM. This is especially important namely for large-scale companies. In the context of the above, it is of particular interest to study the TMF process for an innovative TM (with complex structure and multicomponent composition) registered with a patent for an invention in recent years. The purpose of the present work is to investigate and analyse the nature of the change in temperature between basic and adhesive TM in TMF of innovative /complex in composition and structure/TM. As a result of the performed research and analysis, a method for establishing continuous feedback with the processed textile materials at TMF has been proposed. The nature of the temperature change of the treated innovative TM has been defined. The relationship between the time for conducting the TMF process and the temperature of the pressing plate for the respective innovative TM has been established.
Keywords: thermo-mechanical fusing, innovative textile materials

Citation: Andonova, S., Stefanov, A., Amudzhev, I., An investigation of the thermo-mechanical fusing process of innovative textile materials, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 601-605,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1832


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Article: Impact of consumer Attitude towards purchase intention of the counterfeit products: a multigroup analysis between the user and non-user

Authors: AMJAD FIZA, ZIR-UR-REHMAN MUHAMMAD, HASHIM MUHAMMAD, BAIG SAJJAD, MUBARIK FAZAL, IQBAL SHAHZAD, HAKEEM UR REHMAN
Pages 606-612 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.20203
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate the factors which influence a consumer’s decision to buy counterfeit products. The factors are Attitude towards counterfeits by economic benefit, Attitude towards counterfeits by Hedonic benefits, Subjective norm and Perceived behaviour control and their impact on the purchase intention of the textile/clothing counterfeit product was analysed. A total of 120 questionnaires were distributed. Data was analysed using IBM Statistics 3.0. and SMART PLS. Attitude towards counterfeits by economic benefit and Perceived behaviour control had strong relationships with purchase intention of counterfeit products. Attitude towards counterfeits by Hedonic benefits didn’t show any significant relationship with purchase intention. Subjective norm had strong positive relationship with purchase intention of counterfeits. This study is useful for Developing Countries, especially in Impact of theory of planned behaviour on the purchase intention of the counterfeits and is examined on the user and non-user of the counterfeit product.
Keywords: Hedonic benefits, Subjective norm, Perceived behaviour control, purchase intention, counterfeit products

Citation: Fiza, A., Muhammad, Z.-U.-R., Muhammad, H., Sajjad, B., Fazal, M., Shahzad, I., Rehman, H.U., Impact of consumer attitude towards purchase intention of the counterfeit products: a multigroup analysis between the user and non-user, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 606-612,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.20203

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Article: Mediating role of innovative climate among leadership and employee performance in textile exporting firms of Pakistan

Authors: FAZAL HUSSAIN AWAN, DUNNAN LIU, KHALID JAMIL, RANA FAIZAN GUL, ALIYA ANWAR, GUANGYU QIN
Pages 613-618 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.20206
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

This research seeks to examine how transformational leadership and ambidextrous leadership impact employee performance. The study focuses on the mediating role of innovation climate in influencing the relationship both directly and indirectly with employee performance. Previous literature shows that many studies have been conducted to measure the employee’s performance under the leadership. Still, no study has covered the mediating role of innovation climate between leadership and employee performance. The present study aims at filling that gap through the presentation of a statistical model. Respondents in the sample included the managerial staff of textile exporting firms of Pakistan. Multiple linear regression and the PROCESS for mediation model in the SPSS was used to analyze the collected data. The results indicated that the CEO transformational leadership and ambidextrous leadership had a significantly positive influence on employee performance. In addition, innovation climate was found to have a strong mediating effect. The researchers recommended the exploration of the impact of other possible moderating variables in future researches. Recommendations were also made for the top management of textile firms for the consideration of innovation climate along with the improvement of employee performance.
Keywords: CEO transformational leadership, ambidextrous leadership, innovative climate, employee performance, textile export, Pakistan

Citation: Awan, F.H., Liu, D., Jamil, K., Gul, R.F., Anwar, A., Qin, G., Mediating role of innovative climate among leadership and employee performance in textile exporting firms of Pakistan, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 613-618,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.20206

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Article: Comparative analysis of 100% cotton Siro and single yarns

Authors: ABDUL WAQAR RAJPUT, AMER ALI, BILAL ZAHID, HAFSA JAMSHAID, SANAM MEMON, MUHAMMAD WALEED
Pages 619-622 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1815
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

The aim of this work is to carry out the comparative study to analyse the properties of Siro and single yarn with different linear densities. For this purpose Siro yarn and single yarn with the same linear densities were produced from cotton. Tensile strength and related properties such as evenness, imperfections and hairiness have very important role in weaving. In this comparative study Siro and single yarn with linear densities of 10 Nec, 14 Nec and 18 Nec were manufactured, tested and analysed. Two rovings were used for Siro and one roving was used for single yarn. Comparative study revealed that Siro yarn exhibit better tensile strength and related properties.
Keywords: Siro and single yarn, tensile strength, evenness, hairiness and imperfections

Citation: Rajput, A.W., Ali, A., Zahid, B., Jamshaid, H., Memon, S., Waleed, M., Comparative analysis of 100% cotton Siro and single yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 619-622,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1815

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Article: The discourse of Kurdish traditional textiles

Author: KAWA ABDULKAREEM SHERWANI
Pages 623-631 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1825
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

Verbal communication is not the only way by which people can interact; people communicate with each other through different signs, colours, cultural symbols and costumes. One of the ways that people can communicate through is clothes or textiles. The language of textiles and its covert discourse have not been studied profoundly. Each bit of textile has its specific meaning. Through the discourse of their clothes, people try to show their nationality, age, gender, social status, geographical belonging etc. Kurdish traditional clothes are believed to be culturally rich, since they are dressed by a large number of people in the past and present. This study is an attempt to examine the relationship between discourse and clothes. It tries to study the hidden discourse of Kurdish traditional textiles. The study seeks to answer several questions, including: What do the clothes say about the people who wear them? How different types of clothes show different forms of people’s identity? How do clothes reveal the people’s nationality, age, gender, geographical territory and social class? The principles of discourse analysis, more specifically Foucault’s approach of material discourses, are used to investigate the collected data. The study uses a mixed approach of quantitative and qualitative methods. The data are collected in three ways: by analysing the photo albums, a survey and a site visit to Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil. The study concludes that the pieces of textiles can be seen as linguistic elements in communications and Kurdish traditional clothes embraces specific cultural codes and symbols that can be used to reveal the discourses they embrace.
Keywords: discourse analysis, language of textile, Kurdish culture

Citation: Sherwani, K.A., The discourse of Kurdish traditional textiles, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 623-631,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1825

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Article: Contemporary customized clothes using folk motifs

Authors: LILIANA INDRİE, JOCELYN BELLEMARE, ZLATIN ZLATEV, SIMONA TRİPA, PABLO DİAZ-GARCİA, IGNACIO MONTAVA, JULIETA ILİEVA
Pages 632-638 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1834
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

More and more consumers are attracted to fashion brands that make an extra effort to offer them personalized experiences. The unique details, as well as the complexity of the decorative elements of the folk costume inspire the fashion designers to return to the folk motifs, which they reinterpret and resize while integrating them in the contemporary space, offering models adapted to the customers’ tastes, sizes and preferences and at the same time to make mass customization a profitable production. This study addresses the issue of personalizing clothing items with folk motifs.
In order to collect information on consumer satisfaction regarding the use of folk motifs in contemporary clothing, an online survey about the clothing available on the market and about personalized clothes with folk motifs was developed and applied. The survey was applied to a number of 548 respondents from Romania, Bulgaria, Canada and Spain. To determine the correlation between the answers to the questions for the four countries and to analyse the answers in each country, the PCA method was used. Based on the answers to the survey, certain motifs from the folk costumes were selected, reinterpreted in a modern way and inserted in two fabric patterns. The fabrics were produced on a Loom Jacquard SMIT Textile GS900.
Keywords: customized clothes, folk motifs, woven fabrics, survey, customer’s satisfaction, Principal Component Analysis (PCA)

Citation: Indrie, L., Bellemare, J., Zlatev, Z., Tripa, S., Diaz-Garcia, P., Montava, I., Ilieva, J., Contemporary customized clothes using folk motifs, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 632-638,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1834

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Article: Determinants of online clothing review helpfulness: the roles of review concreteness, variance and valence

Authors: YIBING SHAO, XIAOFEN JI, LILIN CAI, SONIA AKTER
Pages 639-644 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1781
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

Online reviews have emerged as an essential information source for online clothing purchasing behaviour. It is thus paramount for marketers to understand what makes online clothing review helpful to consumers. This research primarily aims to examine the relationship between review textual content factors and review helpfulness in the context of online clothing purchasing. Experiments on review concreteness (concrete or abstract), review variance (consistent or inconsistent) and review valence (positive or negative), between participants were conducted to explore the interaction effect. The findings suggest that online clothing review concreteness, variance and valence are significant factors affecting review helpfulness. Additionally, this study’s findings show that abstract review, negatively review and inconsistent review has a stronger effect on online clothing review helpfulness than concrete review, positively review and consistent review. The findings will help customers to write better clothing reviews, help retailers to manage their websites intelligently and aid customers in their product purchasing decisions.
Keywords: online clothing review, review helpfulness, review concreteness, review variance, review valence

Citation: Shao, Y., Ji, X., Cai, L., Akter, S., Determinants of online clothing review helpfulness: the roles of review concreteness, variance and valence, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 639-644,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1781

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Article: Investigating financial opportunities for traditional clothing industry in South Asia based on an analysis of internationally diversified portfolio using ARCH and GARCH models

Authors: IMRAN ALI ZULFIQAR, CRISTI SPULBAR, ABDULLAH EJAZ, RAMONA BIRAU, LUCIAN CLAUDIU ANGHEL, RADU CĂTĂLIN CRIVEANU
Pages 645-650 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.20202
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

This paper investigates the benefits of forming an internationally diversified portfolio in the stock markets of Bangladesh, India and Pakistan using the stock market indices data from April 2013 to March 2020. The portfolio comprises of three stock market indices from Pakistan, India and Bangladesh. The goal is to identify financial opportunities for traditional clothing industry in South Asia. Bangladesh, India and Pakistan are neighbouring countries in South Asia. Tradition, culture and specific ethnic elements influence traditional clothing in the case of the selected country cluster consisting of Bangladesh, India and Pakistan. Our empirical results indicate that internationally diversified portfolio does not reduce the risk due to global market integration in the background. Furthermore, ARCH and GARCH models reveal that large change in conditional variance is followed by large changes in conditional variance whereas small change in conditional variance is followed by small changes in conditional variance.
Keywords: traditional clothing, textile industry, portfolio diversification, South Asia, financial opportunities, stock markets

Citation: Zulfiqar, I.A., Spulbar, C., Ejaz, A., Birau, R., Anghel, L.C., Criveanu, R.C., Investigating financial opportunities for traditional clothing industry in South Asia based on an analysis of internationally diversified portfolio using ARCH and GARCH models, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 645-650,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.20202

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Article: Research on the origin of clothing from the perspective of the ancient Chinese character etymology and philosophy

Authors: QIANG LI, ANDING LIU, BIN LI, YIXIAO LI, XIANMING XU, HUI TAO
Pages 651-658 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1763
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

The origin of clothing has always been one of the most important topics in the field of apparel culture research. However, academics have different opinions on this issue. Based on the dilemma analysis of the three research routes which include philology, archaeology, anthropology, we can study the essence of the origin of clothing by analysing ancient Chinese character and philosophy. The relative methods of characters etymology in ancient China, archaeology, anthropology and philosophy are adopted in this study in order to further study the origin of clothing. The research shows that: from etymology research on characters in ancient China, Chinese characters associated with clothing can reflect the objective needs of clothing-the carrying tools whose material are cortex. From the perspective of philosophical researches, clothing prototype originated in the cortical belt for carrying in the process of human evolution during the Palaeolithic. It is an important tool for primitive humans to increase their survival rate. And formed clothing is necessary for them to get out of the Africa and expand their living space. First of all, this paper systematically demonstrates the idea that clothing originated from tools based on the analysis of ancient Chinese characters. Secondly, from the perspective of philosophy, this paper demonstrates the great historical role of clothing as a survival tool, based on the viewpoint that the generation of clothing precedes the consciousness of clothing.
Keywords: clothing, evolution, tools, origin, Oracle

Citation: Li, Q., Liu, A., Li, B., Li, Y., Xu, X., Tao, H., Research on the origin of clothing from the perspective of the ancient Chinese character etymology and philosophy, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 651-658,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1763

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Article: Deep insight on the behaviour of short fibres within a composite under uniaxial tensile

Authors: RIADH ZOUARI, EMILIA VISILEANU
Pages 659-665 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1850
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

This work presents an investigation of the mechanical properties of a composite structure manufactured from polypropylene matrix reinforced with jute waste fibres collected from textile industry with extrusion followed by injection techniques. Mechanical tests under uniaxial strain shows that this lightweight vegetal fibre significantly enhanced the mechanical performances of the whole composite with a very slight quantity of compatibilizer which positively influences the final price of the composite. The fracture surfaces showed highly tethered as well as weakly anchored fibres to the matrix. Moreover, in order to have a deep insight on that anchoring behaviour, uniaxial tensile deformation was applied under Scanning Electron Microscopy and evidenced how the fibre/matrix interface plays a high role to strengthen the whole structure. The fibre and matrix interface is not simply resumed to high or weak anchoring but there is a combination of sticking and slipping of reinforcement on the polymeric walls.
Keywords: composites, natural fibre, mechanical performances, fibre/matrix interface

Citation: Zouari, R., Visileanu, E., Deep insight on the behaviour of short fibres within a composite under uniaxial tensile, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 659-665,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1850

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Article: Consumers’ assessment of the brand equity of garment brands

Authors: RANA FAIZAN GUL, DUNNAN LIU, KHALID JAMIL, MUBASHER MUHAMMAD KAMRAN, FAZAL HUSSAIN AWAN, AYAZ QAISER
Pages 666-672 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.18272
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

The assessment of brand equity and its sources is a trend among researchers and garment brand companies nowadays. The purpose of the current study is to explore the impact of two independent variables, including “words of mouth” (WOM) and “brand personality”, on the dependent variable “brand equity”, along with the assessment of mediating effects of “relationship quality”. Previous literature on the subject suggests that multiple sources including “words of mouth” and “brand personality” influence “brand equity”, but no attempts have been made for the assessment of “relationship quality” as a mediator among sources of brand equity in the context of garment brands. The present study aims at filling that gap through the presentation of a statistical model. Respondents in the sample included the regular customers of the garment brands. Partial least squares structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM) was used to fddd the collected data. The results indicated that the “WOM” and “brand personality” had a significantly positive influence on “brand equity”. “Relationship quality” was found to have a strong mediating effect. The theory of brand equity and the social exchange theory was used to develop a representative model. Results of the study strengthen the premises of the theory of brand equity and the social exchange theory. The researchers recommended the exploration of the influence of other possible mediating variables in future researches. Recommendations were also made for the administrators of the garment brand companies for the consideration of “relationship quality” along with the sources of “brand equity”, including “words of mouth” and “brand personality” for improved decision making and competitive advantage.
Keywords: brand equity, word of mouth, brand personality, brand relationship quality, garment brand companies, social exchange theory

Citation: Gul, R.F., Liu, D., Jamil, K., Kamran, M.M., Awan, F.H., Qaiser, A., Consumers’ assessment of the brand equity of garment brands, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 666-672,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.18272

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Article: Nexus between relationship marketing and export performance of readymade garments exporting firms

Authors: KHALID JAMIL, DUNNAN LIU, ALIYA ANWAR, MUHAMMAD WAQAS RANA, FIZA AMJAD MINGGUANG LIU
Pages 673-679 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.202028
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

The aim of this study to find out the impact of relationship marketing on export performance in readymade garments exporting firms of Pakistan. There is also the aim to find the mediating impact of trust between the relationship of relationship marketing and export performance. The present study aims to fill the existing gap in the literature which has been neglected in the previous studies. Data was collected from the managerial staff of readymade garments exporting firms and apply multiple linear regression. After the analysis of collected data, it was found that all the components of relationship marketing used in the study have positive and significant impact on export performance. It was also found that trust partially mediated the relationship of relationship marketing and export performance. At the end researchers recommended that this model can be used with more mediators and enhancing the sample size. It was also recommended to the management of exporting firms that they should more emphasize on trust to improve its export performance to different countries.
Keywords: relationship marketing, adaptation, communication, cooperation, export performance, readymade garments

Citation: Jamil, K., Liu, D., Anwar, A., Rana, M.W., Amjad, F., Liu, M., Nexus between relationship marketing and export performance of readymade garments exporting firms, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 673-679,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.202028

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Article: Accidentally ingested textile foreign bodies, a cause of gastrointestinal obstruction in dogs and cats – a retrospective study

Authors: NICULAE TUDOR, BOGDAN ALEXANDRU VIȚĂLARU, VLAD TRAIAN LUPU, MARIO DARIUS CODREANU, CARMEN MIHAI
Pages 680-684 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1851
Published online: December 2021

Abstract

Gastrointestinal obstruction is a life-threatening condition that is usually caused by accidental ingestion of inedible objects, through play or food indiscretions. Ingested foreign objects generate the mechanical obstruction of the gastrointestinal segment, characterized by a relatively typical set of symptoms, depending on the location. The aim of this study was the clinical and imaging description of some cases of gastrointestinal obstruction in dogs and cats, caused by swallowing textile foreign bodies. The study included 12 dogs and 8 cats of different breeds and ages, belonging to both sexes, which showed clinical signs suggestive from a clinical-anamnestic point of view for gastrointestinal obstruction. These patients had symptoms with acute or chronic progressive evolution of the gastrointestinal tract, including restlessness, deviation, vomiting (single or repeated episodes), abdominal tenderness, constipation and tenesmus. The diagnosis was confirmed by radiographic examination, simple and with contrast medium, and ultrasound, completed in some situations with laparotomy. Ingested textile foreign bodies were represented by socks/stockings (5 dogs and 3 cats), underwear (3 dogs), rope (1 dog and 3 cats), carpet fragments (2 dog and 1 cat), toy fragments (1 dog and 1 cat), and they were located in the stomach (7/12; 58.33%, respectively 4/8; 50%), in the gastro-duodenal segment (2/12; 16.67%, respectively 3/8; 37.5%), in the jejunum (3/12; 25%, respectively 1/8; 12.5%) and in the colon (1/12; 8.33%, respectively 1/8; 12.5%). Gastrointestinal obstruction in pets, caused by accidental ingestion of textile foreign bodies, is a medical emergency and imaging examinations are the main diagnostic tool in the establishment of a subsequent therapy with maximum efficiency.
Keywords: cat, dog, foreign bodies, textile

Citation: Tudor, N., Vițălaru, B.A., Lupu, V.T., Codreanu, M.D., Mihai, C., Accidentally ingested textile foreign bodies, a cause of gastrointestinal obstruction in dogs and cats – a retrospective study, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 680-684,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1851

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