Issue 6 / 2021
Inner covers
Article: Comparison of sensorial comfort properties of different cotton fabrics using the Kawabata Evaluation System
Author: EMİNE UTKUN
Pages: 587-594
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.20217
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
Cotton fabrics are among the most preferred fabrics for both underwear and outerwear. The sensory comfort properties
of the fabrics are important for consumers’ choice of clothing. The majority of consumers visually like the clothes that
they buy and try to feel these features sensually by touching them, and then, they may want to try the garment or they
can make direct purchasing decisions according to these tactile feelings.
In this study, the sensorial properties of a double-layered cotton fabric developed for use as a garment were compared
and evaluated with cotton plain woven and interlock fabrics currently used in the market for this purpose. Sensorial
comfort properties of the fabrics were researched with KES-F Kawabata equipment.
Keywords: sensorial comfort properties, Kawabata Evaluation System, cotton fabrics, clothing comfort, double-layered fabric
Citation: Utkun, E., Comparison of sensorial comfort properties of different cotton fabrics
using the Kawabata Evaluation System, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 587-594, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.20217
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Article: Investigation of frictional impact on polyester yarn during knitting
Authors: ALI AFZAL, ABDUL WAQAR RAJPUT, HAFSA JAMSHAID, SAJID HUSSAIN, SYEDA SIDRA BATOOL, USMAN ALI
Pages 595-600
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1785
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
The usage of polyester (PET) in fabrication is increasing day by day due to its properties, ease of physical and chemical
modification. The aim of this work is to understand the effect of temperature on Polyester (PET) during knitting. For
checking the rise of temperature Infrared (IR) camera is used. Microscopic images are used for studying the effect of
temperature on fibre/yarn structure. Morphological analysis is also done by X-ray diffraction (XRD) which shows
disturbance of polymeric chains, causing change in crystal size due to elevated temperature. The beads formation and
filament breakage are clearly seen in images. Due to this knitting fault, shade variation after dyeing occurred. It is
concluded that structural morphology of polyester yarn changes due to friction of yarn with knitting machine parts. Fabric
appearance and fabric quality also disturbed which leads to rejections and high losses.
Keywords: polyester (PET), weft knitting, friction, structure and properties
Citation: Afzal, A., Rajput, A.W., Jamshaid, H., Hussain, S., Batool, S.S., Ali, U., Investigation of frictional impact on polyester yarn during knitting, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 595-600, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1785
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Article: An investigation of the thermo-mechanical fusing process of innovative textile material
Authors: SNEZHINA ANDONOVA, ALEKSEY STEFANOV, IVAN AMUDZHEV
Pages 601-605
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1832
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
The process of thermo-mechanical fusing (TMF) is one of the major technological processes in the sewing industry. The
quality of the sewing article as a whole depends largely on the effective implementation of this process. The good
appearance of the finished product and the preservation of the shapes given during the operation of the product depend
on the proper choice of the parameters for the TMF. It is therefore important to carry out research to optimize this
process. On the other hand, new and different textile materials (TM) with more complex structure and multicomponent
composition have appeared in recent years. This determines the different properties of each TM. Therefore, it is
extremely important to conduct numerous preliminary studies and analyses to determine the specific effective values for
defining the TMF process for a particular type of TM. This is especially important namely for large-scale companies. In
the context of the above, it is of particular interest to study the TMF process for an innovative TM (with complex structure
and multicomponent composition) registered with a patent for an invention in recent years. The purpose of the present
work is to investigate and analyse the nature of the change in temperature between basic and adhesive TM in TMF of
innovative /complex in composition and structure/TM. As a result of the performed research and analysis, a method for
establishing continuous feedback with the processed textile materials at TMF has been proposed. The nature of the
temperature change of the treated innovative TM has been defined. The relationship between the time for conducting
the TMF process and the temperature of the pressing plate for the respective innovative TM has been established.
Keywords: thermo-mechanical fusing, innovative textile materials
Citation: Andonova, S., Stefanov, A., Amudzhev, I., An investigation of the thermo-mechanical fusing process of innovative textile materials, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 601-605, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1832
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Article: Impact of consumer Attitude towards purchase intention of the counterfeit products: a multigroup analysis between the user and non-user
Authors: AMJAD FIZA, ZIR-UR-REHMAN MUHAMMAD, HASHIM MUHAMMAD, BAIG SAJJAD, MUBARIK FAZAL, IQBAL SHAHZAD, HAKEEM UR REHMAN
Pages 606-612
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.20203
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to investigate the factors which influence a consumer’s decision to buy counterfeit
products. The factors are Attitude towards counterfeits by economic benefit, Attitude towards counterfeits by Hedonic
benefits, Subjective norm and Perceived behaviour control and their impact on the purchase intention of the
textile/clothing counterfeit product was analysed. A total of 120 questionnaires were distributed. Data was analysed
using IBM Statistics 3.0. and SMART PLS. Attitude towards counterfeits by economic benefit and Perceived behaviour
control had strong relationships with purchase intention of counterfeit products. Attitude towards counterfeits by
Hedonic benefits didn’t show any significant relationship with purchase intention. Subjective norm had strong positive
relationship with purchase intention of counterfeits. This study is useful for Developing Countries, especially in Impact of
theory of planned behaviour on the purchase intention of the counterfeits and is examined on the user and non-user of
the counterfeit product.
Keywords: Hedonic benefits, Subjective norm, Perceived behaviour control, purchase intention, counterfeit products
Citation: Fiza, A., Muhammad, Z.-U.-R., Muhammad, H., Sajjad, B., Fazal, M., Shahzad, I., Rehman, H.U., Impact of consumer attitude towards purchase intention of the counterfeit products: a multigroup analysis between the user and non-user, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 606-612, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.20203
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Article: Mediating role of innovative climate among leadership and employee performance in textile exporting firms of Pakistan
Authors: FAZAL HUSSAIN AWAN, DUNNAN LIU, KHALID JAMIL, RANA FAIZAN GUL, ALIYA ANWAR, GUANGYU QIN
Pages 613-618
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.20206
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
This research seeks to examine how transformational leadership and ambidextrous leadership impact employee
performance. The study focuses on the mediating role of innovation climate in influencing the relationship both directly
and indirectly with employee performance. Previous literature shows that many studies have been conducted to
measure the employee’s performance under the leadership. Still, no study has covered the mediating role of innovation
climate between leadership and employee performance. The present study aims at filling that gap through the
presentation of a statistical model. Respondents in the sample included the managerial staff of textile exporting firms of
Pakistan. Multiple linear regression and the PROCESS for mediation model in the SPSS was used to analyze the
collected data. The results indicated that the CEO transformational leadership and ambidextrous leadership had a
significantly positive influence on employee performance. In addition, innovation climate was found to have a strong
mediating effect. The researchers recommended the exploration of the impact of other possible moderating variables in
future researches. Recommendations were also made for the top management of textile firms for the consideration of
innovation climate along with the improvement of employee performance.
Keywords: CEO transformational leadership, ambidextrous leadership, innovative climate, employee performance,
textile export, Pakistan
Citation: Awan, F.H., Liu, D., Jamil, K., Gul, R.F., Anwar, A., Qin, G., Mediating role of innovative climate among leadership and employee performance in textile exporting firms of Pakistan, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 613-618, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.20206
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Article: Comparative analysis of 100% cotton Siro and single yarns
Authors: ABDUL WAQAR RAJPUT, AMER ALI, BILAL ZAHID, HAFSA JAMSHAID, SANAM MEMON, MUHAMMAD WALEED
Pages 619-622
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1815
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
The aim of this work is to carry out the comparative study to analyse the properties of Siro and single yarn with different
linear densities. For this purpose Siro yarn and single yarn with the same linear densities were produced from cotton.
Tensile strength and related properties such as evenness, imperfections and hairiness have very important role in
weaving. In this comparative study Siro and single yarn with linear densities of 10 Nec, 14 Nec and 18 Nec were
manufactured, tested and analysed. Two rovings were used for Siro and one roving was used for single yarn.
Comparative study revealed that Siro yarn exhibit better tensile strength and related properties.
Keywords: Siro and single yarn, tensile strength, evenness, hairiness and imperfections
Citation: Rajput, A.W., Ali, A., Zahid, B., Jamshaid, H., Memon, S., Waleed, M., Comparative analysis of 100% cotton Siro and single yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 619-622, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1815
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Article: The discourse of Kurdish traditional textiles
Author: KAWA ABDULKAREEM SHERWANI
Pages 623-631
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1825
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
Verbal communication is not the only way by which people can interact; people communicate with each other through
different signs, colours, cultural symbols and costumes. One of the ways that people can communicate through is
clothes or textiles. The language of textiles and its covert discourse have not been studied profoundly. Each bit of textile
has its specific meaning. Through the discourse of their clothes, people try to show their nationality, age, gender, social
status, geographical belonging etc. Kurdish traditional clothes are believed to be culturally rich, since they are dressed
by a large number of people in the past and present. This study is an attempt to examine the relationship between
discourse and clothes. It tries to study the hidden discourse of Kurdish traditional textiles. The study seeks to answer
several questions, including: What do the clothes say about the people who wear them? How different types of clothes
show different forms of people’s identity? How do clothes reveal the people’s nationality, age, gender, geographical
territory and social class? The principles of discourse analysis, more specifically Foucault’s approach of material
discourses, are used to investigate the collected data. The study uses a mixed approach of quantitative and qualitative
methods. The data are collected in three ways: by analysing the photo albums, a survey and a site visit to Kurdish Textile
Museum in Erbil. The study concludes that the pieces of textiles can be seen as linguistic elements in communications
and Kurdish traditional clothes embraces specific cultural codes and symbols that can be used to reveal the discourses
they embrace.
Keywords: discourse analysis, language of textile, Kurdish culture
Citation: Sherwani, K.A., The discourse of Kurdish traditional textiles, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 623-631, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1825
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Article: Contemporary customized clothes using folk motifs
Authors: LILIANA INDRİE, JOCELYN BELLEMARE, ZLATIN ZLATEV, SIMONA TRİPA, PABLO DİAZ-GARCİA, IGNACIO MONTAVA, JULIETA ILİEVA
Pages 632-638
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1834
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
More and more consumers are attracted to fashion brands that make an extra effort to offer them personalized
experiences. The unique details, as well as the complexity of the decorative elements of the folk costume inspire the
fashion designers to return to the folk motifs, which they reinterpret and resize while integrating them in the
contemporary space, offering models adapted to the customers’ tastes, sizes and preferences and at the same time to
make mass customization a profitable production. This study addresses the issue of personalizing clothing items with
folk motifs.
In order to collect information on consumer satisfaction regarding the use of folk motifs in contemporary clothing, an
online survey about the clothing available on the market and about personalized clothes with folk motifs was developed
and applied. The survey was applied to a number of 548 respondents from Romania, Bulgaria, Canada and Spain. To
determine the correlation between the answers to the questions for the four countries and to analyse the answers in
each country, the PCA method was used. Based on the answers to the survey, certain motifs from the folk costumes
were selected, reinterpreted in a modern way and inserted in two fabric patterns. The fabrics were produced on a Loom
Jacquard SMIT Textile GS900.
Keywords: customized clothes, folk motifs, woven fabrics, survey, customer’s satisfaction, Principal Component Analysis (PCA)
Citation: Indrie, L., Bellemare, J., Zlatev, Z., Tripa, S., Diaz-Garcia, P., Montava, I., Ilieva, J., Contemporary customized clothes using folk motifs, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 632-638, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1834
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Article: Determinants of online clothing review helpfulness: the roles of review concreteness, variance and valence
Authors: YIBING SHAO, XIAOFEN JI, LILIN CAI, SONIA AKTER
Pages 639-644
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1781
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
Online reviews have emerged as an essential information source for online clothing purchasing behaviour. It is thus
paramount for marketers to understand what makes online clothing review helpful to consumers. This research primarily
aims to examine the relationship between review textual content factors and review helpfulness in the context of online
clothing purchasing. Experiments on review concreteness (concrete or abstract), review variance (consistent or
inconsistent) and review valence (positive or negative), between participants were conducted to explore the interaction
effect. The findings suggest that online clothing review concreteness, variance and valence are significant factors
affecting review helpfulness. Additionally, this study’s findings show that abstract review, negatively review and
inconsistent review has a stronger effect on online clothing review helpfulness than concrete review, positively review
and consistent review. The findings will help customers to write better clothing reviews, help retailers to manage their
websites intelligently and aid customers in their product purchasing decisions.
Keywords: online clothing review, review helpfulness, review concreteness, review variance, review valence
Citation: Shao, Y., Ji, X., Cai, L., Akter, S., Determinants of online clothing review helpfulness: the roles of review concreteness, variance and valence, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 639-644, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1781
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Article: Investigating financial opportunities for traditional clothing industry in South Asia based on an analysis of internationally diversified portfolio using ARCH and GARCH models
Authors: IMRAN ALI ZULFIQAR, CRISTI SPULBAR, ABDULLAH EJAZ, RAMONA BIRAU, LUCIAN CLAUDIU ANGHEL, RADU CĂTĂLIN CRIVEANU
Pages 645-650
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.20202
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
This paper investigates the benefits of forming an internationally diversified portfolio in the stock markets of Bangladesh,
India and Pakistan using the stock market indices data from April 2013 to March 2020. The portfolio comprises of three
stock market indices from Pakistan, India and Bangladesh. The goal is to identify financial opportunities for traditional
clothing industry in South Asia. Bangladesh, India and Pakistan are neighbouring countries in South Asia. Tradition,
culture and specific ethnic elements influence traditional clothing in the case of the selected country cluster consisting
of Bangladesh, India and Pakistan. Our empirical results indicate that internationally diversified portfolio does not reduce
the risk due to global market integration in the background. Furthermore, ARCH and GARCH models reveal that large
change in conditional variance is followed by large changes in conditional variance whereas small change in conditional
variance is followed by small changes in conditional variance.
Keywords: traditional clothing, textile industry, portfolio diversification, South Asia, financial opportunities, stock markets
Citation: Zulfiqar, I.A., Spulbar, C., Ejaz, A., Birau, R., Anghel, L.C., Criveanu, R.C., Investigating financial opportunities for traditional clothing industry in South Asia based on an analysis of internationally diversified portfolio using ARCH and GARCH models, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 645-650, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.20202
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Article: Research on the origin of clothing from the perspective of the ancient Chinese character etymology and philosophy
Authors: QIANG LI, ANDING LIU, BIN LI, YIXIAO LI, XIANMING XU, HUI TAO
Pages 651-658
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1763
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
The origin of clothing has always been one of the most important topics in the field of apparel culture research. However,
academics have different opinions on this issue. Based on the dilemma analysis of the three research routes which
include philology, archaeology, anthropology, we can study the essence of the origin of clothing by analysing ancient
Chinese character and philosophy. The relative methods of characters etymology in ancient China, archaeology,
anthropology and philosophy are adopted in this study in order to further study the origin of clothing. The research shows
that: from etymology research on characters in ancient China, Chinese characters associated with clothing can reflect
the objective needs of clothing-the carrying tools whose material are cortex. From the perspective of philosophical
researches, clothing prototype originated in the cortical belt for carrying in the process of human evolution during the
Palaeolithic. It is an important tool for primitive humans to increase their survival rate. And formed clothing is necessary
for them to get out of the Africa and expand their living space. First of all, this paper systematically demonstrates the
idea that clothing originated from tools based on the analysis of ancient Chinese characters. Secondly, from the
perspective of philosophy, this paper demonstrates the great historical role of clothing as a survival tool, based on the
viewpoint that the generation of clothing precedes the consciousness of clothing.
Keywords: clothing, evolution, tools, origin, Oracle
Citation: Li, Q., Liu, A., Li, B., Li, Y., Xu, X., Tao, H., Research on the origin of clothing from the perspective of the ancient Chinese character etymology and philosophy, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 651-658, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1763
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Article: Deep insight on the behaviour of short fibres within a composite under uniaxial tensile
Authors: RIADH ZOUARI, EMILIA VISILEANU
Pages 659-665
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1850
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
This work presents an investigation of the mechanical properties of a composite structure manufactured from
polypropylene matrix reinforced with jute waste fibres collected from textile industry with extrusion followed by injection
techniques. Mechanical tests under uniaxial strain shows that this lightweight vegetal fibre significantly enhanced the
mechanical performances of the whole composite with a very slight quantity of compatibilizer which positively influences
the final price of the composite. The fracture surfaces showed highly tethered as well as weakly anchored fibres to the
matrix. Moreover, in order to have a deep insight on that anchoring behaviour, uniaxial tensile deformation was applied
under Scanning Electron Microscopy and evidenced how the fibre/matrix interface plays a high role to strengthen the
whole structure. The fibre and matrix interface is not simply resumed to high or weak anchoring but there is a
combination of sticking and slipping of reinforcement on the polymeric walls.
Keywords: composites, natural fibre, mechanical performances, fibre/matrix interface
Citation: Zouari, R., Visileanu, E., Deep insight on the behaviour of short fibres within a composite under uniaxial tensile, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 659-665, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1850
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Article: Consumers’ assessment of the brand equity of garment brands
Authors: RANA FAIZAN GUL, DUNNAN LIU, KHALID JAMIL, MUBASHER MUHAMMAD KAMRAN, FAZAL HUSSAIN AWAN, AYAZ QAISER
Pages 666-672
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.18272
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
The assessment of brand equity and its sources is a trend among researchers and garment brand companies
nowadays. The purpose of the current study is to explore the impact of two independent variables, including “words of
mouth” (WOM) and “brand personality”, on the dependent variable “brand equity”, along with the assessment of
mediating effects of “relationship quality”. Previous literature on the subject suggests that multiple sources including
“words of mouth” and “brand personality” influence “brand equity”, but no attempts have been made for the assessment
of “relationship quality” as a mediator among sources of brand equity in the context of garment brands. The present
study aims at filling that gap through the presentation of a statistical model. Respondents in the sample included the
regular customers of the garment brands. Partial least squares structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM) was used to
fddd the collected data. The results indicated that the “WOM” and “brand personality” had a significantly positive
influence on “brand equity”. “Relationship quality” was found to have a strong mediating effect. The theory of brand
equity and the social exchange theory was used to develop a representative model. Results of the study strengthen the
premises of the theory of brand equity and the social exchange theory. The researchers recommended the exploration
of the influence of other possible mediating variables in future researches. Recommendations were also made for the
administrators of the garment brand companies for the consideration of “relationship quality” along with the sources of
“brand equity”, including “words of mouth” and “brand personality” for improved decision making and competitive
advantage.
Keywords: brand equity, word of mouth, brand personality, brand relationship quality, garment brand companies, social exchange theory
Citation: Gul, R.F., Liu, D., Jamil, K., Kamran, M.M., Awan, F.H., Qaiser, A., Consumers’ assessment of the brand equity of garment brands, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 666-672, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.18272
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Article: Nexus between relationship marketing and export performance of readymade garments exporting firms
Authors: KHALID JAMIL, DUNNAN LIU, ALIYA ANWAR, MUHAMMAD WAQAS RANA, FIZA AMJAD MINGGUANG LIU
Pages 673-679
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.202028
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
The aim of this study to find out the impact of relationship marketing on export performance in readymade garments
exporting firms of Pakistan. There is also the aim to find the mediating impact of trust between the relationship of
relationship marketing and export performance. The present study aims to fill the existing gap in the literature which has
been neglected in the previous studies. Data was collected from the managerial staff of readymade garments exporting
firms and apply multiple linear regression. After the analysis of collected data, it was found that all the components of
relationship marketing used in the study have positive and significant impact on export performance. It was also found
that trust partially mediated the relationship of relationship marketing and export performance. At the end researchers
recommended that this model can be used with more mediators and enhancing the sample size. It was also
recommended to the management of exporting firms that they should more emphasize on trust to improve its export
performance to different countries.
Keywords: relationship marketing, adaptation, communication, cooperation, export performance, readymade garments
Citation: Jamil, K., Liu, D., Anwar, A., Rana, M.W., Amjad, F., Liu, M., Nexus between relationship marketing and export performance of readymade garments exporting firms, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 673-679, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.202028
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Article: Accidentally ingested textile foreign bodies, a cause of gastrointestinal obstruction in dogs and cats – a retrospective study
Authors: NICULAE TUDOR, BOGDAN ALEXANDRU VIȚĂLARU, VLAD TRAIAN LUPU, MARIO DARIUS CODREANU, CARMEN MIHAI
Pages 680-684
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.06.1851
Published online: December 2021
Abstract
Gastrointestinal obstruction is a life-threatening condition that is usually caused by accidental ingestion of inedible
objects, through play or food indiscretions. Ingested foreign objects generate the mechanical obstruction of the
gastrointestinal segment, characterized by a relatively typical set of symptoms, depending on the location. The aim of
this study was the clinical and imaging description of some cases of gastrointestinal obstruction in dogs and cats, caused
by swallowing textile foreign bodies. The study included 12 dogs and 8 cats of different breeds and ages, belonging to
both sexes, which showed clinical signs suggestive from a clinical-anamnestic point of view for gastrointestinal
obstruction. These patients had symptoms with acute or chronic progressive evolution of the gastrointestinal tract,
including restlessness, deviation, vomiting (single or repeated episodes), abdominal tenderness, constipation and
tenesmus. The diagnosis was confirmed by radiographic examination, simple and with contrast medium, and ultrasound,
completed in some situations with laparotomy. Ingested textile foreign bodies were represented by socks/stockings
(5 dogs and 3 cats), underwear (3 dogs), rope (1 dog and 3 cats), carpet fragments (2 dog and 1 cat), toy fragments
(1 dog and 1 cat), and they were located in the stomach (7/12; 58.33%, respectively 4/8; 50%), in the gastro-duodenal
segment (2/12; 16.67%, respectively 3/8; 37.5%), in the jejunum (3/12; 25%, respectively 1/8; 12.5%) and in the colon
(1/12; 8.33%, respectively 1/8; 12.5%). Gastrointestinal obstruction in pets, caused by accidental ingestion of textile
foreign bodies, is a medical emergency and imaging examinations are the main diagnostic tool in the establishment of
a subsequent therapy with maximum efficiency.
Keywords: cat, dog, foreign bodies, textile
Citation: Tudor, N., Vițălaru, B.A., Lupu, V.T., Codreanu, M.D., Mihai, C., Accidentally ingested textile foreign bodies, a cause of gastrointestinal obstruction in dogs and cats – a retrospective study, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 6, 680-684, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.1851
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