Issue 2 / 2019 
Article: A new finishing process of cotton fabrics
Authors: KADRI AKÇALI, MELIHA OKTAV BULUTPages: 101-110
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1513
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
Ecological and economic responsibilities have led to the search for alternative material applications in the textile sectoras well as in all sectors. Sol-gel technology is one of these applications with advantages such as realization under lowtemperatures and enabling the desired product shape and format.In this study, the samples of 100% cotton fabric have been processed by using pigment printing technique with naturalpumice, amorphous silica and colemanite materials and printing fixation process has been performed by using the solgel coating method.The sol gel treatment has been carried out with basic catalyst according to the zeta potentials of the solid particulatematerials used. After the new created process, surface morphologies, EDS point analysis and F-TIR analysis of all fabricsamples have been performed. In addition, the properties such as strength, UV protection, air permeability, waterpermeability, abrasion resistance, flammability of all fabrics have been investigated.The results of surface analysis have proven that the chemical components of the natural materials are transferred to thefabric samples. It has been proven by the test results that all cotton fabric samples are given high strength, UVprotection, flammability, high abrasion resistance and low air permeability. Interpretation of all the analysis and obtainedtest results has been also made statistically.According to the study results, ecofriendly process step has been created that allows low energy cost and low chemicalusage under low temperatures.
Keywords: pumice, amorphous silica, colemanite, sol gel method, cotton fabric
Citation: Akçali, K., Bulut, M.O., A new finishing process of cotton fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 101-110, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1513
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Article: Low-velocity impact response of 3D polyurethane resin composites reinforced with spacer fabrics
Authors: SI CHEN, DA-WEI SHI
Pages 111-115
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1577
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
This research aimed to investigate the low-velocity response of polyurethane-based composites. Three warp-knittedspacer fabrics produced on a double-needle bar warp knitting machine by vary different surface structures were usedas the reinforcement element. Two Micro-balloons were added into the composites as well. A new type of resin namedpolyurethane resin was involved for fabricating the composites. Accordingly, the impact behaviors of composites wereevaluated properly under the impact velocity of 1 m/s and 2 m/s, respectively. The findings obtained illustrate that thecomposites possess excellent low-velocity impact properties and the impact resistance capacities are significantlyaffected by the fabric surface structures and the types of Micro-balloon, indicating that their impact energy absorbabilitycan be tailored to meet the specific end-use requirements by varying the structural parameters.
Keywords: low-velocity response, polyurethane resin, warp-knitted spacerfabrics, Micro-ballon
Citation: Chen, S., Shi, D.-W., Low-velocity impact response of 3D polyurethane resin composites reinforced with spacer fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 111-115, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1577
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Article: Analysis of tensile properties for conductive textile yarns
Authors: LILIANA BUHU, DANIELA NEGRU, EMIL CONSTANTIN LOGHIN, ADRIAN BUHU
Pages 116-119
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1517
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
In this paper conductive yarns were made by coating the yarns with a solution having carbon black nanoparticles (CB)with an average diameter of 18 nm, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and water. For a continuous coating deposition it isnecessary to obtain a solution of a certain consistency; for this reason, carbon black nanoparticles are mixed with theingredients so that the resulting film deposited as a thin layer on the yarn to be conductive, and at the same time flexible.The carbon black nanoparticles tend to form aggregates; this is why the solution should be stirred continuously. Theyarns used as support are different from the nature, fineness and structure point of view.Several variants of yarns were chosen in order to decide which ones are appropriate for obtaining conductive yarns thatkeep their specific initial properties.The variants of conductive yarns obtained were tested in terms of physical and mechanical properties (tensile strength,elongation), and from the viewpoint of electrical properties, electrical resistivity was measured. After coating theconductive layer, yarns shows greater rigidity, but can be used to obtain textile materials such as woven fabrics.After performing the measurements, it can be concluded that the yarns coated with a conductive solution based on CBshows electrical conductivity and can be used for obtaining conductive textile fabrics.
Keywords: conductive yarn, carbon black nanoparticles, mechanical properties, electrical properties
Citation: Buhu, L., Negru, D., Loghin, E.C., Buhu, A., Analysis of tensile properties for conductive textile yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 116-119, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1517
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Article: The development of the spinning wheel in ancient China
Authors: JUE RAO, LONGDI CHENG, YUNYING LIU
Pages 120-124
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1524
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
As textile demand increased in ancient China, the spinning wheel became more widely used in the Neolithic era andwas responsible for the main spinning tasks over the last few thousand years. This work explores the changes over timein the shape, diameter, and thickness of the spinning wheel in the Cross-lake Bridge, Hemudu, Yangshao, Qujialing, andShijiahe cultures. The disc-like shape, mound-like shape, bead shape, and truncated cone shape are deemed to havebeen the best spinning wheel forms in the later stages – especially the disc-like spinning wheel. The spinning wheel witha diameter of 2–9 cm and a thickness of 0.1 to 9.0 cm was used throughout prehistoric times. In the late Neolithic period,a disc-like spinning wheel with a diameter of 3–4 cm and a thickness of less than a cm was the most frequently useddesign. This study shows that the change in the shape, diameter, and thickness of the spinning wheel is the inevitableresult of the change in the tool’s design points, thereby revealing improvements in spinning efficiency.
Keywords: development, spinning wheel, shape, diameter, thickness
Citation: Rao, J., Cheng, L., Liu, Y., The development of the spinning wheel in ancient China, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 120-124, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1524
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Article: Effect of pin spacer apparatus on the properties of knitted fabrics from cotton-tencel yarns
Author: GIZEM KARAKAN GÜNAYDIN
Pages 125-132
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1607
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
Yarn quality is an important factor as it directly plays an important role in fabric properties. Among many attempts forimproving yarn properties in spinning technologies, pin spacer is one of the developed apparatus which can be mountedseparately on the compact spinning unit used for improving the yarn properties especially in terms of yarn evenness andhairiness. Cotton-Tencel blended compact yarns are widely preferred among the textile consumers owing to highcomfort feature of Tencel fibers combined with cotton fibers’ unique properties. In this study, cotton (85%) – Tencel (15%)compact yarn samples were produced as yarn groups of combed yarn and carded yarn with utilizing and without utilizingpin-spacer apparatus at a linear density of Ne 40/1. In order to analyze the effect of pin-spacer apparatus on yarnproperties, unevenness, imperfections, hairiness (H) and tensile measurements were evaluated. The greige and dyedsingle jersey plain knitted samples produced from those yarns were also compared in terms of dimensional changes inwale and course direction (%), pilling grades, bursting strength (kPa), air permeability values (mm/s) and the fabricsurface color properties. According to test results, using pin-spacer apparatus generally improved carded and combedcompact yarns’ some properties as well as some knitted fabric properties made of those yarns.
Keywords: compact yarn, pin spacer, pilling, bursting strength, air permeability, color measurement
Citation: Günaydin, G.K., Effect of pin spacer apparatus on the properties of knitted fabrics from cotton-tencel yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 125-132, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1607
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Article: Effect of cell size on tensile strength and elongation properties of honeycomb weave
Authors: BILAL ZAHID, HAFSA JAMSHAID, ABDUL WAQAR RAJPUT, MOHAMAD FAIZUL YAHYA, SHAKEEL KHATRI
Pages 133-138
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1558
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
The fabric developed from honeycomb weave is a multilayer fabric having variable strength and elongation. Propertiesof these structures depend on the cell size of the honeycomb weave. The aim of the research is to identify the effect ofcell size on the tensile strength in terms of breaking force and elongation of the honeycomb weave structures. In thispaper, three different cell sizes of honeycomb fabrics were created and analysed in both warp and weft direction for itstensile properties. Analysis shows significant results in the warp direction and weft direction of honeycomb fabric.
Keywords: honeycomb weave, multilayer fabric, cell size, tensile strength
Citation: Zahid, B., Jamshaid, H., Rajput, A.W., Yahya, M.F., Khatri, S., Effect of cell size on tensile strength and elongation properties of honeycomb weave, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 133-138, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1558
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Article: Peel resistance and stiffness of woven fabric with fusible interlinings
Authors: AYCA GURARDA, MEHMET KANIK, NAIME CALISKAN
Pages 139-146
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1571
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
Interlining is a layer of fabric placed between the garment fabrics to form and enhance the stiffness of the garment. Thefusible interlining can be bonded to the fabric at a specific temperature, time and pressure. These parameters are very important for the peel resistance and stiffness of the fabric with fusible interlining. In this study, cotton woven face fabric and three different fusible interlinings(plain, twill and nonwoven fusibleinterlining)were chosen as experimental samples. Different fusing temperatures between 130 °C and 170 °C anddifferent fusing times (5–10 and 15 sec) selected for fusing of the interlinings to the fabric. The purpose of this study isto investigate the effect of fusing temperature and time on peel resistance and stiffness of fabric with fusible interlinings.Results indicated that the stiffness of the fabric withcotton plain fusible interlining increased with increase fusing temperature and fusing time. Results indicated that the stiffness of the fabric withpolyester twill fusible interliningincreased with increase fusing temperature and decrease fusing time. Results indicated that the stiffness of the fabricwith polyamide nonwoven fusible interlining increased with increase fusing temperature until 140 °C and increase fusingtime until 10 sec. Results indicated that the peel resistance between the cotton plain and polyester twill fusible interliningandface fabric increased with increase fusing temperature and fusing time.
Keywords: fusible interlining, bending length, flexural rigidity, peel resistance, stiffness
Citation: Gurarda, A., Kanik, M., Caliskan, N., Peel resistance and stiffness of woven fabric with fusible interlinings, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 139-146, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1571
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Article: Innovation is creating competitive advantage: a perspective to improve the organic textile products for business growth
Authors: ABRAR MUHAMMAD, SAFEER ASIF ALI, SAJJAD AHMAD BAIG, BASHIR MOHSIN, FIZA AMJAD, SHABBIR RIZWAN
Pages 147-153
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1644
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
This research study focused on the role of innovation for creating competitive advantage and organic textiles products improvement to develop the organic textiles business in global markets for Pakistan. In this study, innovation is used asa competitive strategy by Pakistani respondents to compete globally. The most critical success factors of organic textile identified in this research include quality, certification (GOTS or Organic Exchange), customer services, brand image,and some other success factors. The theoretical contribution of this study includes the discovery of the types of innovation which exist in organic textile and in which forms these innovations prevail in this industry.
Keywords: innovation, organic textiles, business development, global market
Citation: Muhammad A., Ali, S.A., Baig, S.A., Mohsin, B., Amjad, F., Rizwan, S., Innovation is creating competitive advantage: a perspective to improve the organic textile products for business growth, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 147-153, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1644
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Article: Research regarding the cover factor of magnetron sputtering plasma coated fabrics
Authors: LILIOARA SURDU, EMILIA VISILEANU, ALINA ARDELEANU, CORNELIA MITRAN, ION RĂZVAN RĂDULESCU, CRISTIAN STANCU, IRINA SANDULACHE, BOGDANA MITU
Pages 154-159
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1618
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
Buildtech technical textiles domain requires new technologies for manufacturing flexible eco-friendly materials. Magnetron sputtering allows nanometer scale coatings on fabrics with various functionalities and benefits. Novel fabric functionalities consist in electromagnetic shielding and fire proofing. This paper aims to analyse the cover factor of rawand plasma coated fabrics, meant for the above mentioned functionalities. Fabrics with fibrous composition of 100%cotton and 100% polyester (PES) were coated with Cu films by magnetron sputtering in order to render surface electrical conductivity and fireproof character. Fabric density and yarn diameter were determined for raw and plasma coated fabrics in order to compute the cover factor, while atomic absorption tests were performed in order to determine the content of deposited copper. The cover factor of plasma coated fabric slightly decreases as a function of the process time for the four analysed samples within the study. This physical behaviour is underlined by optical microscope imagesof raw and coated fabrics and can be explained through slight decrease of yarn diameter after plasma magnetron coating. Moreover, obtained coated fabrics presented good performance regarding electromagnetic shielding, measuredwith TEM cell and fire-proofing character, evidenced by melting point determination.
Keywords: fireproofing, electromagnetic shielding, building elements, cotton, PES samples
Citation: Surdu, L., Visileanu, E., Rădulescu, I.R., Sandulache, I., Mitran, C., Mitu, B., Stancu, C., Ardeleanu, A., Research regarding the cover factor of magnetron sputtering plasma coated fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 154-159, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1618
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Article: Testing of the structure of the ammunition stabilization-deceleration system in static conditions and in the subsonic aerodynamic tunnel
Authors: CARMEN MIHAI, JIPA CRISTIAN, OVIDIU DAN ZAMFIRACHE, ALEXANDRA ENE, CARMEN DENIS GHIMUS, CONSTANTIN NIŢE
Pages 160-164
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1649
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
The use of the aerodynamic stabilization-deceleration system provides numerous advantages in guiding and detonating the ammunition in the theater of operations, namely the precise launching of the ammunition if the self-destruction or deactivation mechanisms do not work and the trajectory indicates the bombing of populated areas or civil targets(industrial constructions, production plants, bridges, viaducts). In this context, the paper presents the values of the static characteristics of the canopy as well as the aerodynamic ones of a stabilization-deceleration system, resulted from thetests performed in the aerodynamic tunnel.
Keywords: stabilization-deceleration system, guidance, subsonic aerodynamic tunnel, Prandtl aerodynamic circuit, resistant surface, aerodynamic characteristics, porosity of the system, standard errors, multivariate regression, square correlation coefficient, prediction, canopy permeability
Citation: Mihai, C., Ene, A., Jipa, C., Ghimus, C.D., Zamfirache, O.D., Nite, C., Testing of the ammunition stabilization-deceleration system structure in static conditions and in the subsonic aerodynamic tunnel, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 160-164, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1649
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Article: An analytical approach for extraction and detection of permethrin from functionalized textile materials
Authors: ELENA PERDUM, DOINA TOMA, MARIANA VAMESU, ELENA-CORNELIA MITRAN, IRINA MARIANA SANDULACHE, DANA-GEORGETA CIUTARU, LUCIA OANA SECAREANU, OVIDIU-GEORGE IORDACHE
Pages 165-169
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1600
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
With the development of textile industry and technology, the interest in creating value-added textiles is growing moreand more. The global trend is to functionalize textile materials for narrow and well-defined purposes. Textile materialsare increasingly subject of high quality standards and their functionalization must be very efficient and with minimalimpact on the environment and human health. The purpose of this research was to determine the content of permethrinfrom knits made of Cell Solution® functional fibers, which provide effective protection against insects. The substancepermethrin (according to WHO recommendation, C21H20Cl2O3, CAS number: 52645-53-1) is integrated into the fibers. Permethrin is a substance that acts similar to the natural pyrethrum extracted from chrysanthemum flowers. When insects get into contact with Cell Solution® PROTECTION fibers, the knockdown effect of the substance sets in. Achemically initiated stimulus causes insects to stay on the textile shorter thus reducing the risk of painful and infectiousbites or strings. The repellent effect is particularly working on ticks, mites and gnats. This research also aims to make acomparison between the effect of different knitting methods (repeated washing cycles of textile materials, exposure to Weather Fastness Tester-visible light) in order to observe the stability of the insecticide incorporated into the fiber. Forthe extraction of permethrin from knits we used the innovative method of accelerated solvent extraction method (ASE)and for the quantification of the substance we used the liquid chromatographic method with spectrophotometricdetection (HPLC-MWD). Both cis-permethrin and trans-permethrin were found in the samples, and for isomeric confirmation we analysed the extracted samples also on gas chromatography (GC-MS).
Keywords: permethrin, Cell Solution® PROTECTION Fibers, liquid chromatography, accelerated solvent extraction, functionalized textiles
Citation: Perdum, E., Toma, D., Vamesu, M., Mitran, E.-C., Sandulache, I.M., Ciutaru, D.-G., Secareanu, L.O., Iordache, O.-G., An analytical approach for extraction and detection of permethrin from functionalized textile materials, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 165-169, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1600
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Article: Quo vadis, Tekstil? Croatian Journal for Textile and Clothing Technology
Author: DAVOR JOKIC
Pages 170-181
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1661
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
Information-professional-scientific periodicals have been present in Croatian textile field for 90 years with five successive journals. They mirrored the development and needs of the textile industry through various socio-economicand educational-scientific conditions. In this sense, the scientific journal for textile and clothing technology – Tekstil thatmarks 67 years of uninterrupted publication had the most important role. This journal is the most relevant source of various information on the development of textile profession and textile technology in Croatia and abroad. As a monthly journal, Tekstil was the source of the current peer-reviewed scientific and professional information that was trying to meet the needs of many generations of students, experts, teachers and scientists in the field of textiles. Beside thereview of the journal development in 67-year period, this paper is an attempt to indicate the journal’s current difficulties and challenges in sense of regaining his status among the most relevant world journals.
Keywords: Tekstil – Journal for Textile and Clothing Technology, scholarly journal, scholarly publishing, textile technology, publication regularity, scientific visibility, online availability
Citation: Jokic, D., Quo vadis, Tekstil? Croatian Journal for Textile and Clothing Technology, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 170-181, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1661
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Article: Designing the functional garments for people with physical disabilities or kyphosis by using computer simulation techniques
Authors: ANDREJA RUDOLF, ANDREJ CUPAR, ZORAN STJEPANOVIČ
Pages 182-191
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1592
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
The two-fold purpose of this study is to document the current challenges of the 3D scanning and computer simulation techniques in developing functional garments for people with physical disabilities or postural disorder kyphosis. The first part of the study investigates the health problems of the wheelchair users and presents the possibilities of developing functional pants from the perspective of protection and health needs. The second part of the study investigates the usefulness of the newly developed methodology for elementary surfaces evaluation, named CASP (Curvature, Acceleration, Symmetry, Proportionality), in the process of designing the well-fitted bodice for wheelchair users suffering from the postural disorder kyphosis. The relationships between the health problems, human body postures, kyphosis, 3D scanning, CASP evaluation and treated garments were considered in the prototyping process. The obtained research results regarding the functional pants for wheelchair users and the well-fitted bodice for a kyphosis body are valuable also for a wider population of those who are forced to a sitting posture during a day and are confronted with similar health problems as paraplegics or are affected by the kyphosis.
Keywords: functional garments, physical disability, postural disorders, 3D scanning, CASP methodology, computer simulation techniques
Citation: Rudolf, A., Stjepanovič, Z., Cupar, A., Designing the functional garments for people with physical disabilities or kyphosis by using computer simulation techniques, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 182-191, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1592
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Article: Application of nano-TiO2 in sizing of kapok blended yarn
Authors: HONG-YAN WU, LI WU, SHUANG KANG, JIAN-HUA YIN
Pages 192-196
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1578
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
The usability of Rutile type nano-TiO2 as the auxiliary in sizing was investigated in order to improve the quality of kapok blended yarn. First, TiO2 with different quality was added to the traditional size, and four kinds of kapok blended yarns were starched. Then, the strength, elongation, abrasion resistance and hairiness of the sized yarns were tested. Finally,the effect of TiO2 content on the performance of the yarn was analyzed. The results demonstrate that using TiO2 assizing agent is favorable to the increase in strength, loss in elongation, abrasion resistance and hairiness of sized yarns. And, when the ratio of TiO2 to starch is 1.5%, the properties of the sized yarn are excellent.
Keywords: TiO2, size, kapok, strength, abrasion resistance, hairiness
Citation: Wu, H., Wu, L., Kang, S., Yin, J., Application of nano-TiO2in sizing of kapok blended yarn, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 192-196, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1578
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Article: Texmatrix – The knowledge matrix for innovation applied to textile enterprises
Authors: ION RĂZVAN RĂDULESCU, ROBERTO VANNUCCI, PETRA DUFKOVA, LUIS ALMEIDA, MIRELA BLAGA, ZORAN STJEPANOVIČ
Pages 197-202
DOI: 10.35530/IT.070.02.1648
Published online: April 2019
Abstract
Several enterprise management instruments are used to support innovation. The Knowledge Matrix for Innovation (KMI) quantifies intangible assets of an enterprise in order to keep an improved inventory, gap bridges and eliminate redundancies. The KMI was defined and implemented for textile enterprises within the Erasmus+ project TexMatrix, in order to respond to their innovation needs: the KMI was transformed to a Benchmarking questionnaire, a Benchmarking study was conducted with 64 European textile enterprises and Reports on European, national and individual enterprise level were created. The needs of the enterprises were drawn from a SWOT analysis of the European Benchmarking report: 35 project solutions provided by the consortium partners were assigned to six main Opportunities of SWOT analysis. These project solutions contain results in fields like: research, market and training. The solutions altogether with three educational modules for supporting innovation were implemented within an e-learning course in five European languages of the project’s partners: English, Italian, Portuguese, Romanian and Slovenian. The Moodle e-learning course includes various resources (Book, Video) and activities (Quiz, Glossary, Chat and Forum). Training was performed for 199 textile professionals within 8 multiplier events and for 137 young students within 5 blended courses. Textile professionals expressed their interest in implementing some of the project solutions. All created Open Educational Resources are available with free access on the project’s e-learning platform: www.advan2tex.eu/portal/.
Keywords: benchmarking, report, SWOT, project solutions, e-learning
Citation: Rădulescu, I.R., Almeida, L., Vannucci, R., Blaga, M., Dufkova, P., Stjepanovič, Z., Texmatrix – The knowledge matrix for innovation applied to textile enterprises, In: Industria Textila, 2019, 70, 2, 197-202, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.070.02.1648
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