Issue 5 / 2020 
Inner covers
Article: Multi-objective optimization of extraction of Tunisian Washingtonia filifera fibers for technical textile applications
Authors: MARWA BOUAZIZ, WALID CHAOUCH, SAOUSSEN ZANNEN, NATHALIE LEBLANC, MOHAMED RAGOUBI, MOHAMED BEN HASSEN
Pages: 411-420
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1716
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of extraction treatment method on the properties of WPF (Washingtonia
palm fibres). The employed treatment is a combined mechanical and chemical sodium hydroxide. The treatment
processes was described and evaluated. The physical properties (linear density, diameter and extraction yield), and the
mechanical properties (tenacity) of WPF were measured. The optimum extraction condition has been determined by a
statistical study using desirability function. Obtained fibres under optimal conditions were characterized with
morphological test (SEM), chemical tests (FT-IR spectra, X ray diffraction) and thermal test (TGA). Fibre obtained can
be employed on technical textile applications and in particular drylaid nonwoven.
Keywords: chemical properties, fibre extraction, factorial design, palm fibre, physical properties
Citation: Bouaziz, M., Chaouch, W., Zannen, S., Leblanc, N., Ragoubi, M., Hassen, M.B., Multi-objective optimization of extraction of Tunisian Washingtonia filifera fibers for technical textile applications, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 411–420, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1716
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Article: Garment knowledge base development based on fuzzy technology for recommendation system
Authors: JUNJIE ZHANG, XIANYI ZENG, MIN DONG, WEIBO LI, HUA YUAN
Pages 421-426
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1724
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
With the rapid development of garments recommendation systems, more and more garment knowledge base have been
widely developed. The research in this paper aims to build a garment knowledge base in order to help general
consumers to identify the most relevant products satisfying their specific requirements. We design four experiments for
building this knowledge base by 8 pairs of normalized sensory evaluation criteria for describing both consumers’
expectations and product profile. The theory of fuzzy composition technology is applied for setting up garment
knowledge base which can be used for consumer-oriented intelligent garment recommendation system. Compared with
the other knowledge base, this knowledge base is more robust and more interpretable owing to its capacity of handling
vague, imprecise, uncertain, or ambiguous.
Keywords: fuzzy technology, sensory experiment, knowledge base
Citation: Zhang, J., Zeng, X., Dong, M., Li, W., Yuan, H., Garment knowledge base development based on fuzzy technology for recommendation system, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 421–426, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1724
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Article: Effect of caustic treatment on cotton/modal blended fabric
Authors: BILAL ZAHID, MUHAMMAD ALI, MUHAMMAD ZUBAIR, MEHMOOD KARIM
Pages 427-431
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1726
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
Attempt has been made to assess the cotton/modal (60:40) blended woven fabric properties after mercerization with
caustic lye of different strengths. Cotton/Modal (60:40) fabric was subjected to bulk mercerization process and
subsequently dyed with reactive dyes. The colour strength, fastness properties (washing, staining and rubbing etc.),
tensile and tear strength and shrinkage were characterized. The results of this study indicate that cotton/modal blended
fabric that was considered in this study can be processed under similar conditions as those that are maintained for
cotton fabrics generally and that the aforementioned properties are improved generally.
Keywords: Modal, mercerization, colour strength, fastness properties, tear & tensile strength
Citation: Zahid, B., Ali, M., Zubair, M., Mehmood, K., Effect of caustic treatment on cotton/modal blended fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 427–431, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1726
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Article: Conductive textile structures and their contribution to electromagnetic shielding effectiveness
Authors: ION RAZVAN RADULESCU, LILIOARA SURDU, BOGDANA MITU, CRISTIAN MORARI, MARIAN COSTEA, NICOLAE GOLOVANOV
Pages 432-437
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1783
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
Fabrics for electromagnetic shielding are especially relevant in nowadays context, contributing to human’s protection
and wellbeing and to proper functioning of electronic equipment, in relation to electromagnetic compatibility. Fabrics with
electromagnetic shielding properties employ two main technologies, namely insertion of conductive yarns and
application of conductive coatings. Magnetron sputtering is a modern technology to enable conductive coatings with
thickness in the range of nanometers onto fabrics. This paper aims to analyze contribution of various conductive textile
structures out of both fabrics with inserted conductive yarns and coatings to Electromagnetic shielding effectiveness
(EMSE). EMSE was measured in the frequency range of 0.1–1000 MHz by using a TEM cell according to standard
ASTM ES-07. Results show a gain of 10–25 dB when introducing silver yarns in warp/ weft direction, a variation of
5–35 dB between conductive yarns out of silver and stainless steel and an up to 12 dB gain out of thin copper coating
by magnetron plasma onto the fabrics with inserted conductive yarns.
Keywords: stainless steel yarns, silver yarns, thin copper coating, fabrics, electromagnetic shielding
Citation: Rădulescu, I.R., Surdu, L., Mitu, B., Morari, C., Costea, M., Golovanov, N., Conductive textile structures and their contribution to electromagnetic shielding effectiveness, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 432–437, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1783
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Article: Identification of influence factors on physical-mechanical properties, using the principal component analysis, in selecting the textile fabrics for the clothing products
Authors: LILIANA HRISTIAN, MARIA MAGDALENA OSTAFE, IONUȚ DULGHERIU, LILIANA BUHU, ADRIAN BUHU, DANIELA NEGRU
Pages 438-445
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1754
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
The paper aims to highlight the correlations between the physical-mechanical properties of woven fabrics made of
combed wool yarn with different fibrous compositions, using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) method. Based
on the information on each fabric/assortment group, it is found that four main factors were extracted: durability, comfort,
production price and fabric design. The extracted components explain 92% of the variability of the twelve initial
inter-correlated variables, so that we can considerably reduce the complexity of the data configured using these
components, with only 8% loss of information. This technique that follows the controlled reduction of the number of
variables can be used subsequently for modelling the physical-mechanical properties of the fabrics and for selecting the
most suitable fabrics to satisfy the requirements of a particular field of use.
Keywords: matrix of correlations, Principal Component Analysis, factorial axis, fabrics
Citation: Hristian, L., Ostafe, M.M., Dulgheriu, I., Buhu, L., Buhu, A., Negru, D., Identification of influence factors on physical-mechanical properties, using the principal component analysis, in selecting the textile fabrics for the clothing products, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 438–445, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1754
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Article: Multivariate analysis of the 3D composites based on nickel microparticles
Authors: RALUCA MARIA AILENI, LAURA CHIRIAC, SILVIA ALBICI, IRINA MARIANA SANDULACHE, VALERIA NEAGU, LILIANA RADUCU
Pages 446-451
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1772
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
This paper presents multivariate analyses of the experimental parameters obtained in the scientific experiments on eight
sample fabrics of 100% cotton with electrically conductive properties and electromagnetic achieved through traditional
treatments such as padding with antistatic agents, and direct printing or scraping with a polymeric paste based on nickel
(Ni). Textile printing was obtained using polymers such as polyethylene glycol (PEG), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA),
polyacrylate, ammonium salt, carboxylic acid Copolymer polyester, and Ni microparticles. For the eight samples that
have been analyzed, the morphology of the surfaces using SEM (scanning electron microscope) with magnification
2000–8000x and electronic magnification microscopy with 4x, assessed the resistance to wet rubbing and dry the
resistance of the surface after treatment in the solution of alkaline and acid sweat. Also, the samples above referred
have been analyzed by spectrophotometry to evaluate the transmittance, and reflectance of the electromagnetic waves.
It can specify that after treatments in acid or alkaline sweat solutions, the resistance of the surface has decreased by
103–105. It has been observed that for samples treated with acid or alkaline sweat, the reflectance was increased in
comparison with the reflectance obtained for the original samples. The multivariate analysis provided refers to the study
of some physic-chemical and optical parameters, of the samples collected, such as thickness, pH, reflectance, and
transmittance.
Keywords: composites, electroconductive, textile, resistance, nickel, 3D
Citation: Aileni, R.M., Chiriac, L., Albici, S., Sandulache, I.-M., Neagu, V., Raducu, L., Multivariate analysis of the 3D composites based on nickel microparticles, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 446–451, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1772
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Article: Dynamic response of filament winding angle on complex shaped mandrels
Author: AHMET REFAH TORUN
Pages 452-457
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1717
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
Aerodynamic parts such as rocket nose and heat shield related composites are mainly produced with filament winding
machines. Winding angle of the reinforcement filament is the main parameter to determine the thermomechanical
properties of the final composite part. The angle adjustments on the machine cause the temporary response of the
filaments. This study derives an analytical method to determine the real angle of the filaments on the mandrel.
Keywords: winding angle, filament winding, composite materials, conical parts, complex shape mandrels
Citation: Torun, A.R., Dynamic response of filament winding angle on complex shaped mandrels, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 452–457, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1717
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Article: Further evidence on efficiency of Bahrain Bourse: A high challenge for other industries
Authors: THONSE HAWALDAR IQBAL, RAMONA BIRAU, CRISTI SPULBAR, BABITHA ROHIT, PRAKASH PINTO, THEKKEKUTT MATHUKUTTI RAJESHA, FABRIZIO DI SCIORIO
Pages 458-466
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1732
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
The purpose of the present study is to provide further evidence of the weak form efficiency of the Bahrain Bourse. The
research methodology is based on daily closing index values of the Bahrain Bourse from 2011 to 2015 in order to test
the efficiency of the stock market while runs test, Autocorrelation Function, and advance tools such as ARCH and
GARCH models and Hurst Index to provide further evidence of the weak form efficiency of the Bahrain stock market.
For instance, a volatile and inefficient stock market has a negative impact on textile and apparel industry in the Kingdom
of Bahrain, which is one of the most prosperous and attractive industries in the country. The empirical results revealed
that Bahrain stock market does not follow normal distribution and the successive price changes are not independent.
Further, ARCH effect is significant and indicative of a time-varying conditional volatility. There is an arbitrage opportunity
and extreme mispricing in the Bahrain stock market as indicated by the GARCH (1, 1) model. The results of the Hurst
exponent also confirm the inefficiency of the market. The results of these tests are consistent indicating that the Bahrain
stock market is inefficient.
Keywords: Efficient Market Hypothesis (EMH), ARCH effect, GARCH models, Hurst Index
Citation: Iqbal, T.H., Birau, R., Spulbar, C., Rohit, B., Pinto, P., Rajesha, T.M., Di Sciorio, F., Further evidence on efficiency of Bahrain Bourse: A high challenge for other industries, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 458–466, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1732
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Article: CAD/CAM system implementation criteria in the process generating of optimal and efficient models for clothing industry
Authors: DRAGAN DIMITRIJEVIĆ, OBRAD SPAIĆ, ŽELJKO ĐURIĆ, SNEŽANA UROŠEVIĆ, MAJA NIKOLIĆ
Pages 467-472
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1741
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
The first part of the paper is a systematic explanation of the process of defining the most important parameters for
generating optimal and efficient models of small and medium sized enterprises (SMEs) of the clothing industry, with the
presentation of specific and adequate methods of research, i.e. with the evaluation of data for designing new models,
and including previous research data. The following is an explanation of the final phase, i.e. a systematic and objective
design assessment, through the implementation of preliminary results of exploitation studies of the modal experiment
and computer simulation of the new model, based on which the criteria for efficient and optimal implementation of the
CAD/CAM systems are defined.
Keywords: criteria, CAD/CAM systems, modeling, optimization, SME
Citation: Dimitrijević, D., Spaić, O., Đurić, Ž., Urošević, S., Nikolić, M., CAD/CAM system implementation criteria in the process generating of optimal and efficient models for clothing industry, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 467–472, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1741
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Article: Employee’s performance affected by the alignment of interest and capacity building
Authors: MUHAMMAD ASIM SHAHZAD, DONG JUN, QANDEEL HASSAN, RANA AHSAN ZUBAIR, TAHIR IQBAL
Pages 473-481
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1718
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
This study emphasizes the factors that may lead to increase the employee performance in the textile sector in Pakistan.
The study observes an impact of capacity building, alignment of interest and manager support in employee performance
through the moderating role of employee retention.
The approach consists in survey questionnaire used to collect data. Data was analysed through SPSS 23 and Smart-PLS 3.
The results indicate that manager support, capacity building and the alignment of interest have a noteworthy influence
on employee performance. Additionally, if employee retention is considered as a moderator then the overall impact
would be more significant to employee performance.
According to these results, capacity building, manager support and alignment of interest contribute positively to
employee’s performance. The results encourage the managers to invest in training their employees to improve their
organizational performance/productivity as well as to consider the alignment of interest as a tactical and operational
strategy to retain their key employees.
Keywords: manager support, alignment of interest, capacity building, employee retention, employee performance, Pakistan
Citation: Shahzad, M.A., Jun, D., Hassan, Q., Zubair, R.A., Iqbal, T., Employee’s performance affected by the alignment of interest and capacity building, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 473–481, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1718
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Article: Clothing fashion brands
Authors: BRUNO ZAVRŠNIK, VOJKO POTOČAN
Pages 482-486
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1768
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
In the fashion, industry brands are especially important, because the competition is high, and companies need to attract
new customers and keep them. Successful branding requires a good knowledge of consumers and their purchasing
processes. Brands have an important function in the fashion world, both for businesses and consumers. The brand is
assured to the consumers by the quality and by acquiring some image and status in the company. A strong brand makes
a profit for the company. In addition, a strong brand enables setting high prices and expansion of product range and
introducing new products.
In the survey, we wanted to examine the behaviour of customers in the clothing brands in the Slovenian market. We
used a survey questionnaire to get the appropriate answers.
The survey found that most respondents want to buy clothes in larger shopping centres and in the Internet, most often
during the sale after the season.
Keywords: brand, fashion, consumer’s behaviour, fashion clothes
Citation: Završnik, B., Potočan, V., Clothing fashion brands, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 482–486, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1768
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Article: Quality yarn index using AHP and Fuzzy method
Authors: MOHAMED BEN HASSEN, MOHAMED TAHER HALIMI, EMAD ABUALSAUOD, ASEM OTHMAN
Pages 487-491
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1699
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
The yarn quality depends on many parameters: characteristics parameters, mechanical and physical properties.
Making the hypothesis that the quality of the yarn is a multicriteria problem, in this paper, we propose a new method to
determine the Quality Yarn Index QYI based on Analytic Hierarchy Process AHP and Fuzzy theory.
A questionnaire was designed for experts of each field (weaving and knitting) to evaluate the relative importance for
each property to determine coefficients of the AHP matrix.
Results revealed that matrix coefficients changed with yarn application (weft or warp weaving and knitting)
The QYI can be used in any application, where a rapid decision is needed, to evaluate the global quality of yarn and to
make a comparison between different yarn qualities.
Keywords: yarn quality index, mechanical properties, physical properties, Fuzzy AHP
Citation: Hassen, M.B., Halimi, M.T., Abualsauod, E., Othman, A., Quality yarn index using AHP and Fuzzy method, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 487–491, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1699
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Article: Implementation of image processing techniques as a tool for form analysis of Romanian folk elements
Authors: LILIANA INDRIE, ZLATIN ZLATEV, DORINA-CAMELIA ILIEȘ, AMALIA STURZA,MIHAELA DOCHIA, MARIA GOZNER, GRIGORE HERMAN, TUDOR CACIORA
Pages 492-498
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1690
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
The present paper proposes a method for an effective analysis of Romanian folk motifs using two basic algorithms –
Radius-Vector function (RV) and Principal Component Analysis (PCA). For a better accuracy of the analysis, a
combination of these methods has been proposed. The authors selected few Romanian folk motifs (embroidered on
blouses, skirts called “poale”, front aprons called “zadii”, sleeveless vest) from Bihor, Arad, and Maramures Counties.
The vectorization of traditional motifs was made by GIS software.
Keywords: traditional folk costumes, folk motives, Radius-Vector function, Principal Component Analysis (PCA)
Citation: Indrie, L., Zlatev, Z., Ilies, D.C, Sturza, A., Dochia, M., Gozner, M., Herman, G., Caciora, T., Implementation of image processing techniques as a tool for form analysis of Romanian folk elements, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 492–498, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1690
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Article: Textile packaging waste in the context of implementing the concept of circular economy
Authors: EFTALEA CĂRPUȘ, ANGELA DOROGAN, CRISTINA STROE
Pages 499-503
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1836
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
At European level, there are concrete measures regarding waste management in the circular economy, and these refer
to: mandatory recycling rates for different categories of waste: plastics, glass, metals, paper and cardboard as well as
biodegradable waste; the obligation to redesign the products in order to increase the proportion of raw materials
resulting from recycling and to increase the degree of recycling of products, in order to consider them as secondary raw
materials; promoting and stimulating the reuse of products; increasing the recycling rate of municipal waste by 2030 to
a minimum of 65%; increasing the recycling rate of packaging waste by 2030 to a minimum of 75%; reduction of food
wastage and implicitly of the resulted food waste by 50% by 2030.
The large amount of packaging waste determined the taking of legislative measures that defined the obligations of packaging
producers/distributors, recycling objectives and the waste management hierarchy.
New targets for the recycling of packaging waste predict a growth to 65% in 2025 and 70% in 2030.
Textile packaging waste is an important link in the integrated management of waste whose recovery contributes to the
conservation and improvement of natural capital.
Keywords: circular economy, textile packaging, waste, requirements, mapping recovery options
Citation: Cărpuș, E., Dorogan, A., Stroe, C., Textile packaging waste in the context of implementing the concept of circular economy, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 499–503, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1836
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Article: ICT new tools for a sustainable textile and clothing industry
Authors: MANUELA AVADANEI, SABINA OLARU, IRINA IONESCU, LUMINITA CIOBANU, LIDIA ALEXA, ALEXANDRA LUCA, MARIANA URSACHE, MONICA OLMOS, THEOFILOS ASLANIDIS, DANA BELAKOVA, CÉSAR SILVA
Pages 504-512
DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.05.1811
Published online: October 2020
Abstract
Sustainability in the textile and clothing industry is seen as a subject of the major producers, with many brands divulging
their concern about protecting people and the environment and adopting an environmental friendly communication
approach. For companies in the textile and clothing sector (especially SMEs), the circular economy provides an
opportunity to create new profit streams, increase their resilience to volatile input costs, and support their efforts to
become completely sustainable and socially responsible.
EU textile and clothing industry needs a flexible workforce that can respond to the development and to the globalised
market and the need for sustainable design and manufacturing in order to respond to the global demand for sustainable
creative products. In this frame, it is important to have suitable tools to train the employees, to prepare them to deal with
these new challenges, to enhance their knowledge, and to develop new skills and competencies for this new type of
business. This paper introduces a new training toolkit, which will contribute to the training process of the personnel
involved in the textile and clothing industry. This toolkit contains e-learning courses in six European languages, mainly
various sources (books, video) and activities (quizzes and forums), which are uploaded and available on the Udemy
platform.
Keywords: sustainability expert, sustainable management, environmental performance, corporate social responsibility, circular economy
Citation: Avadanei, M., Olaru, S., Ionescu, I., Ursache, M., Ciobanu, L., Alexa, L., Luca, A., Olmos, M., Aslanidis, T., Belakova, D., Silva, C., ICT new tools for a sustainable textile and clothing industry, In: Industria Textila, 2020, 71, 5, 504-512, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.071.05.1811
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