Authors: GRAÇA GUEDES, PAULO VAZ
Pages: 469–476
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.202035
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
During the first decade of this century, the Portuguese knitwear industry, and textile cluster, were strongly affected by
globalisation and seemed destined to decline. The Portuguese knitwear industry developed for decades a business
model based on price as the main competitive factor, and that model was no longer able to support competitiveness
against low wages countries. Portuguese knitwear industry made a dramatic change towards a competition based on
value to the client. The companies adopted as primary differentiation drives technological innovation, design, fashion,
and services customer-oriented, together with more presence on international fairs and exhibitions. The new strategy
resulted in the significant growth of exports that reached 40% from 2009 to 2018. The restructuring of the cluster,
however, changed it significantly, and the number of companies was reduced by almost 50%. The competitive change
made the entire Portuguese textile cluster an international case study where the modern concept of private label
business model is central.
The business model of private label adopted by the most competitive knitwear companies considered a full package of
services to international clients. It integrated the collection’s design, raw materials development, superior finishing,
careful and cost-effective confection and sophisticated logistics. Pedrosa & Rodrigues, SA. is a midcap company from
Barcelos County, North of Portugal, and is a highly successful example of the new competitive paradigms. This new
model is now leading the Portuguese knitwear industry to a higher level in the value chain and gives it a strong reputation
worldwide.
Keywords: private label, design service oriented, textile industries new paradigms, organisational innovation, sustainable value chain
Citation: Guedes, G., Vaz, p., Reinventing the Portuguese knitwear industry: the case
of Pedrosa & Rodrigues private label management model, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 469–476, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.202035
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Authors: ANDREA DOBROSAVLJEVIĆ, SNEŽANA UROŠEVIĆ, MILOVAN VUKOVIĆ, NADA ŠTRBAC
Pages 477–484
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.1816
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
Business process management (BPM) in organizations of the clothing industry can be considered as a practice of
importance for establishing a stable and progressive business. In contemporary business, which considers the
application of best business practices within production-business systems, effective process management becomes
important and emerges as a practice that contributes to the overall improvement of the organization’s operations. BPM
focuses on improving both internal and inter-organizational operations that take place between organizations within the
supply chain of clothing industry. The effective BPM in the organizations of the clothing industry may depend on the
establishment of the various elements. The assumption is that influential elements are specifics of the garment industry
such as the primary BPM activities, the different dimensions of BPM which are consistent with a comprehensive view of
this approach, as well as the mere involvement of human resources in the business processes of the organizations. The
defined influential elements are treated as variables of the structural model, created by the implementation of the IBM
SPSS AMOS structural modelling program, exploring a number of hypothesized impacts. The results of this research
help to understanding the impact of these elements on the strengthening BPM practice in the clothing industry
organizations.
Keywords: business process management (BPM), clothing industry, BPM dimensions, process management activities, human resources in clothing industry processes
Citation: Dobrosavljević, A., Urošević, S., Vuković, M., Štrbac, N., Modelling factors of influence on business process management in the organizations of the clothing industry, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 477–484, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.1816
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Authors: BILAL ZAHID, HAFSA JAMSHAID, ABDUL WAQAR RAJPUT, XIAOGANG CHEN
Pages 485–490
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.1820
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
The manuscript is a section of research completed for the overall impact performance of riot-police-helmet-shells having
continuously textile reinforcement. In this research paper, manufacturing of double fabric layered helmet and its impact
analysis has been discussed. Moreover, energy contained and blocking forces at various zones at the police-head
protector shells were assessed. Results are also compared with the previous work for the impact evaluation of single
piece riot-police-helmet-shell. The comparative results show significant difference in values in comparison with single
layered riot-police-helmet-shell. These results can lead to the development of Riot-police-helmet-shells that can resist
high velocity impact.
Keywords: impact, force blocking effectiveness, energy absorption, textile reinforcement, continuous, helmet
Citation: Zahid, B., Jamshaid, H., Rajput, A.W., Chen, X., Impact properties of continuously textile reinforced double fabric layered riot-police-helmet-shells, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 485–490, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.1820
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Authors: LINLIN BAI, JIU ZHOU
Pages 491–502
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.1725
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
Weft-backed structures with compound weft colours can express the mixed colour effect. However, this structure is not
suitable for jacquard fabrics with a double-faced shading effect in the traditional single layer design mode. Taking
twenty-thread sateen with a step number (S) of 7 as an example, this paper investigates a design method for compound
full-backed structure with three shaded-weave databases (SWDs) by selecting the primary weaves (PWs), designing the
compound full-backed technical points and establishing the compound structure database with three SWDs. With this
design method, a double-faced shading effect in combination with non-backed and full-backed effects on different sides
of the jacquard fabric at the same position is generated. The fabric colour card was produced with three SWDs and three
sets of different coloured wefts, and their colour values were measured, followed by an analysis of the compound
structures on the reverse side, lightness, colour purity and colour difference (ΔE*ab) of the specimens. The results
showed that the three covering effects on the reverse side, partly covered, critical position and totally covered, could be
adjusted by controlling the step number and the transition direction of PW-C. For the specimens on the edges of the
fabric colour card, their lightness and colour purity values showed a uniform transition effect along with the shading
process; their colour differences ranged from 1.23 to 3.69, both in the range of 2–5, and showed a trace or slight colour
difference between two adjacent fabric specimens, indicating that the colour shading effect with the three SWDs is stable.
Keywords: weft-backed structure, compound full-backed structure, double-faced, shading effect, colour rendering law
Citation: Bai, L., Zhou, J., Research on double-faced jacquard fabric with compound full-backed structure of three wefts, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 491–502, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.1725
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Authors: RASHMI RUPESH SONI, IQBAL THONSE HAWALDAR, ANJU SUNNY VASWANI, CRISTI SPULBAR, RAMONA BIRAU, ELENA LOREDANA MINEA, SUHAN MENDON, MARIA MAGDALENA CRIVEANU
Pages 503-508
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.20214
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
The purpose of this paper is to predict the financial distress of companies of the Indian textile sector using Altman Z
score. The analysis conducted on 161 listed textile companies in India for a period of 10 years from 2009 to 2018. All
the listed companies are categorized into large, medium, and small using the median split method based on the size of
total assets. Kruskal Wallis test is applied to test whether the mean z-score is different for each category of companies.
This research study shows that majority of the companies in the Indian textile sector are facing financial distress. Further,
it shows that the z score of small, medium, and large-scale textile companies in India is significantly different.
Keywords: textile sector, performance, Altman Z score, bankruptcy, discriminant analysis, financial investment, customer
Citation: Soni, R.R., Hawaldar, I.T., Vaswani, A.S., Spulbar, C., Birau, R., Minea, E.L., Mendon, S., Criveanu, M.M., Predicting financial distress in the Indian textile sector, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 503-508, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.20214
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Authors: MUHAMMAD MIDHAT ALI, SHEHERYAR MOHSIN QURESHI
Pages 509-514
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.1810
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
Previous research on the subject has reported that competency-based management has a constructive impact on
organizational and employees’ performance. One way of presenting human resource competencies is through a formal
framework. This study is part of a project to validate a scientifically developed competency framework and assesses the
prospects of its application in specific industrial sectors of Pakistan. This methodological work was carried out with
background learning in the first phase and a survey was conducted in second phase involving practitioners and experts
from the textile industry. Their responses were used to validate the face and content of the framework. Participants were
given a presentation on the methodology followed in developing the competency framework and provided a
questionnaire for feedback. Out of 75 participants from the textile industry, the majority were from human resource,
sales, marketing, information technology, finance, operations, engineering, quality and logistics at managerial level.
Participants validated the framework design and contents without suggesting any changes. This study gave confidence
about the framework, its development methodology, its format and presentation before bringing in practice.
Keywords: competence, framework, methodological study, survey, practitioners and experts in textile, validation
Citation: Ali, M.M., Qureshi, S.M., Competency framework validation: application in textile industry, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 509-514, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.1810
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Authors: AFTAB AHMAD, AMJAD HUSSAIN, AYYAZ AHMAD, LUBNA SHAHEEN, USAMA ABRAR, FARZAN AHMAD KHAN
Pages 515-520
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.20204
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
Occupational stress among the employees has become a major concern for the organizations without exemption for the
textile and clothing industry, a major manufacturing industry of the developing countries. In Pakistan, it contributes 8.5%
to the GDP and is a source of employment for 30% of the workforce. This research aims at exploring the effects of job
stress amongst the individuals employed in textiles. For the purpose, data was collected from 1212 textile industry
employees. Deployment of exploratory factor analysis (EFA) on the information collected resulted four stress impact
factors, namely psychological, behavioural, performance and effectiveness, and physical. The factors described an
overall accumulative variance of 60.87%, with psychological as the most significant, explaining 40% of the total. Results
of this work disclose that how Occupational Stress affect the employees of textile and clothing industry. There is a need
to understand the complexity of stress phenomenon so that the stress management intervention strategies could be
designed and implemented accordingly. Findings of this research may be helpful in unfolding the complexity of stress
phenomenon and these can be used as a guideline for the design and promotion of more acceptable and viable
approaches or strategies for real-time benefits realization at individual and organizational level in terms of higher job
satisfaction, motivation and productivity.
Keywords: behavioural, effects, employees, exploratory factor analysis, job stress, performance and effectiveness, physical, psychological, textile industry
Citation: Ahmad, A., Hussain, A., Ahmad, A., Shaheen, L., Abrar, U., Khan, F.A., How does occupational stress affect individuals employed in textiles? An exploratory study from Pakistan, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 515-520, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.20204
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Authors: ALEXANDRU-FLORIN SĂVULESCU, CRISTIAN CÎRLAN, ANCA A. SIMIONESCU, ANDREEA-IULIA BUDRUGEAC, MĂDĂLINA IORDACHE-PETRESCU, MIHAI IORDACHE, ALEXANDRA-BIANCA IONESCU, DRAGOŞ STANCIU, EMMA-ILINCA SBÂRNEA, OANA CORINA CĂLINA
Pages 521-527
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.202020
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
Textile prostheses have been used in abdominal surgery since ancient times. Industrial development of the last one
hundred years changed it from simple cloth to highly improved materials that are better integrated and provide superior
functional outcomes.
Understanding of the physicochemical properties of surgical meshes is essential for the rational choice of the optimal
device. This needs to be closely adapted to mechanical and biological conditions of the anatomical region that will be
placed in. The quality of the materials and the manufacturing technique are also of great importance, influencing both
the mechanical parameters and the integration of the prosthetic material. Although a hard-to-reach concept, the ideal
mesh should have high porosity, a monofilamentous structure and it should be composed of durable, non-carcinogenic,
non-allergenic, and highly biocompatible materials. These qualities will ensure a good integration of the prosthesis and
will make it easy to handle intraoperatively, resulting in a satisfactory clinical outcome.
Based on the above considerations, this article aims to bring to light useful manufacturing information regarding textile
prostheses used in surgical reconstructions, in order to support surgeons in making the correct and rational choice of
the prosthetic material, based on its physicochemical properties, thus avoiding postoperative complications.
Textile implants apply to various surgical fields such as abdominal or thoracic wall reconstruction, visceral defect repair,
pelvic floor stabilization or tissue replacement.
Postoperative complications of mesh use include chronic pain, infection, ulceration of the wound, adhesion formation,
intestinal obstruction, recurrence of parietal defect, rejection of the prosthesis, and mesh granuloma.
Keywords: surgical mesh, hernia, transobturatory tape procedure, mechanical properties, structural parameters
Citation: Săvulescu A.-F., Cîrlan, C., Simionescu, A.A., Budrugeac, I.-A., Iordache-Petrescu, M.,
Iordache, M., Ionescu, A.-B., Stanciu, D., Sbârnea, E.-I., Călina, O.C., Textile prostheses in abdominal and pelvic surgery, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 521-527, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.202020
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Authors: CRISTI SPULBĂR, RAMONA BIRĂU, VICTOR OLUWI, ABDULLAH EJAZ, TIBERIU HORAȚIU GORUN, TONI CĂLUGĂRU, IMRAN ALI ZULFIQAR, LOREDANA ELENA MINEA
Pages 528-537
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.1819
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
This research study explores the diversification opportunity among 18 European stock market indices for the sample
period from January 2001 to December 2019. However, financial education plays an important role in the development
of the textile industry, considering the dynamics of the companies listed on the European stock exchanges. The
correlation matrix, pairwise cointegration and Johansen cointegration reveal that selected 18 European stock market
indices do not reduces the portfolio risk because exhibit higher positive correlation among them, and their movement
pulsed in tandem. Potential investors are attracted by high investment opportunities in order to maximize their return
based on portfolio diversification. Financial education can effectively contribute to the sustainable growth of the textile
industry in Europe. This empirical research provides an integrated perspective on the long-term evolution of certain
major European stock exchange indices. The findings have significant implications for investors interested in selecting
these European stock indices in order to diversify their portfolio risk. Our study also imply that selected stock indices
have been strongly affected by similar political and financial belies across Europe thus, eliminating the possibility of
portfolio risk diversification.
Keywords: portfolio diversification, correlation, Johansen cointegration, textile industry, financial education, stock market
Citation: Spulbăr, C., Birău, R., Oluwi, V., Ejaz, A., Gorun, T.H., Călugăru, T., Zulfiqar, I.A., Minea, L.E., Diversification opportunities in European stock markets and their impact on textile industry development based on a financial education approach, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 528-537, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.1819
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Authors: DANIELA SOFRONOVA, RADOSTINA A. ANGELOVA
Pages 538-544
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.202017
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
Despite the large application of the machine embroidery in textile and apparel design and high-tech clothing items, there
is а lack of systematic arrangement of the digital stitch lines, used by embroidery machines and embroidery designers.
Since 2010 information on embroidery stitch lines could be mostly found in the web sites of the embroidery machine
manufacturers and software product manuals. However, in the instruction manuals the instruments for creating various
embroidery objects are simply described without providing systematic information on the types of the stitch lines. Even
more, different names of the stitch lines and different ways to achieve the same design are observed. Single authors offer
their own classifications based entirely and logically on the stitches of the hand embroidery. Another group of authors
relied on already developed techniques and strategies for digitizing stitches in various software products or took into
account the final appearance of the stitch lines or their application. Our study aimed to develop a detailed and systematic
classification of the digital stitch lines in the machine embroidery, which has not been presented in the literature.
Keywords: machine embroidering, classification, digital stitch lines, textiles, textile systems
Citation: Sofronova, D., Angelova, R.A., Classification of digital stitch lines in machine embroidery, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 538-544, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.202017
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Authors: SHUANGQIANG LIANG, QIHONG ZHOU, GE CHEN
Pages 545-551
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.202010
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
Owing to the excellent integrated structure, notch-insensitivity, delamination-free characteristics, 3D braided composites
have a broad range of engineering applications. In this paper, the notch size effects on two types of 3D braided
composites were experimentally examined. Style I incorporated 40% of longitudinal lay-in yarns. Style II was the pure
braids. The Point Stress Criterion (PSC) was applied to predict the open-hole strength of 3D braided composites. It is
found the 3D braided composites can keep higher proportion residual strength after involving the different circular hole
sizes compared to plain woven laminates. The open-hole pure braided specimen shows better performance than that
the braids with longitudinal yarns, the lay-in longitudinal yarns improve neither specimens’ un-notched strength, nor the
modulus. The predicted open-hole strength were compared with experimental results. The traditional analytical method
can predict the open-hole strength of 3D braided composite to some extent. Under uniaxial tensile stress, the failure
behaviour of two types of 3D braided specimens are different. For un-notched specimen, clear cracks usually show up
on the Style II specimen, while it is not true for Style I coupon. For notched specimen, the crack of both notched
specimens will propagate along the notch and finally render the specimen to fail.
Keywords: 3D braided composite, open-hole size, Point Stress Criterion, failure, strength prediction
Citation: Liang, S., Zhou, Q., Chen, G., Open hole size effects on tensile properties of 3D braided composites, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 545-551, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.202010
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Authors: SEZEN DÖNMEZ DİNÇ, FATMA GÖKTEPE
Pages 552-560
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.202026
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
Electrospun nanofibrous surfaces were produced by using two different polymers (PA 6,6 and PVA) at three different
levels of polymer feeding rate (0.2, 0.6 and 1.0 ml/h, respectively) and three different levels of production time in
electrospinning (5, 10 and 15 minutes, respectively) and the effect of polymer type, polymer feeding rate and production
time was determined by analyzing unit weight and thickness of the nanofibrous membranes as well as fibre fineness
and pore size distributions. The results showed that much finer fibres were produced by PA 6,6 polymer compare to
PVA. The minimum average fibre fineness was 150.96 nm (by PA 6,6 polymer; 0.2 ml/h; 5 min.) while maximum fibre
fineness was 243.43 nm (by PVA polymer; 0.6 ml/h; 15 min.). Similarly, the pore sizes of nanofibrous surfaces produced
by PA 6,6 were smaller compare to the ones produced by PVA polymer. The results also indicated that coarser fibres
were produced as the polymer feed rate and electrospinning time increased. In the second part of the work, composite
structures were obtained by combining nanofibrous surfaces with PP non-woven material and their air permeability and
filtration efficiency by using an aerosol having 0.2–0.33 mm diameter range were analyzed. The air permeability of PA
6,6 nanofibrous surfaces were much higher compare to the ones produced by PVA and quite high filtration efficiency
(99.901 %) was obtained with PA 6,6 nanofibrous surfaces. Also, potential of these nanofibrous surfaces was evaluated
by analysing chemical groups eliminated following their exposure to cigarette smoke which was chosen as a specific
case study.
Keywords: electrospinning, nanofibre, PA 6,6, PVA, nanofibrous surface, filtration
Citation: Dinç, S.D., Göktepe, F., Production and analysis of electrospun PA 6,6 and PVA nanofibrous surfaces for filtration, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 552-560, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.202026
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Authors: AKPINAR ELİF SULTAN, KAPLAN VOLKAN, CAN YAHYA
Pages 561-568
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.1833
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
In this article, it is aimed to determine the effect of the antibacterial finishing process applied to bed linen fabrics, which
are widely used in the market, on some mechanical properties of the fabric. Antibacterial finishing process was applied
to the fabric produced for this purpose under operating conditions and wrinkle strength, tear strength and abrasion
resistance levels were made on these fabrics. Measurements were made before and after antibacterial finishing. The
resulting results were evaluated among themselves and processed in SPSS (Statistical Package for Social Sciences)
21.0 program. Since the number of processed data is less than 50 according to greige fabric and antibacterial treated
fabric measurements, it has been tested with Shapiro-Wilk analysis. The homogeneity of the test variances of the data
was done with Levene homogeneity test. Tear strength, creasing angle and abrasion resistance test results are focused
on how scientifically meaningful the effects of process parameters and interactions on fabric properties are in
accordance with statistical analysis. As a result of the analysis, it was revealed that the results obtained from the tear
strength, wrinkle angle and abrasion resistance tests were statistically significant and as a result, the antibacterial
process parameters negatively affect the wrinkle strength, tear strength of the cotton fabric; it was found to affect the
wear resistance positively.
Keywords: antibacterial textiles, medical textiles, greige fabric, wrinkle test, tear test, abrasion level
Citation: Sultan, A.E., Volkan, K., Yahya, C., Investigation of the effects of antibacterial finishing on some mechanical properties of cotton sheet fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 561-568, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.1833
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Authors: RALUCA MARIA AILENI, LAURA CHIRIAC, RAZVAN ION RADULESCU
Pages 569-578
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.1849
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
This paper presents an overview of training/learning tools for advanced textile research centres in Morocco and Jordan.
Within the Erasmus+ FOSTEX project, the main courses necessary for the training of researchers and students enrolled
in master’s or doctoral programs in Morocco and Jordan and who will work within the advanced research centres have
been identified and selected. Starting from good European practices on learning, teaching, research and testing
services, several courses have been structured that offer knowledge on international conformity certification,
standardization, quality management, testing/inspection, labelling, integration of technical specifications, testing
physical-mechanical, colour resistance testing, tests specific to instrumental analysis and development of advanced
materials. In order to improve the skills of human resources (research staff, masters and doctoral students), the
Erasmus+ FOSTEX consortium has developed an extensive toolkit of learning-training, thematic workshops and
services appropriate to the equipment purchased by partners in Morocco and Jordan for research centres in the field of
advanced textiles.
Keywords: research, advanced materials development, testing, standardization, e-learning, training
Citation: Aileni, R.M., Chiriac, L., Radulescu, R.I., A new perspective in e-learning training toolkit development for advanced textile research centres in Morocco and Jordan, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 569-578, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.1849
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Authors: CARMEN MIHAI, LAURA CHIRILA, CRISTINA GROSU, SABINA OLARU, ALINA POPESCU
Pages 579-584
DOI: 10.35530/IT.072.05.1848
Published online: October 2021
Abstract
Wound dressing is a key factor of the wound management system, having as main objective the stimulation of the
healing process for a variety of inflammatory skin diseases. To maximize the therapeutic effects, innovative medical
devices with integrated drug delivery system become of real interest during the last decade. For the realization of the
optimal woven fabrics used as a substrate for various active principles, such as propolis and cinnamon essential oil, the
multivariate linear regression analysis was used to elaborate the conceptual models on the basis of which the
experimental models of the textile supports were designed. Using as input data the characteristics of the selected yarns
(breaking force, elongation at break, torsion/twist, hygroscopicity), one can predict the structural parameters of the
woven fabrics (raw materials, yarn density, lengths of the underlaps) and also the assembly and adjusting parameters
for the machinery from weaving preparation and weaving sectors (advance and height of the drum, reed width,
drawing-in, input/output of the gripper, cross unevenness reed, stationary in maximum open lease, the moment of the
grippers opening, impulse time, the moment of the shaft smoothening, etc.). The validation of the elaborated conceptual
models it was confirmed by the registered yields in the range of 88–96 %, during the weaving process.
Keywords: virtual model, multivariate regression, cumulative probabilities, multiple correlation coefficient, biomaterial, structural parameters, woven fabrics
Citation: Mihai, C., Grosu, C., Chirila, L., Olaru, S., Popescu, A., Design and development of experimental models for textile structures integrated in wound dressings applied in curative therapy of inflammatory skin diseases, using specific instruments of descriptive statistics, In: Industria Textila, 2021, 72, 5, 579-584, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.05.1848
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