Issue 3 / 2018 
Article: Modelling and testing the electromagnetic near field shielding effectiveness achieved by woven fabrics with conductive yarn
Authors: ION RĂZVAN RĂDULESCU, EMILIA VISILEANU, ION PĂTRU, LILIOARA SURDU, MARIAN COSTEA, VIORICA VOICU
Pages: 169-176
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1508
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
The current extensively development of electrical devices and telecommunication requires adequate solutions for
ensuring electromagnetic compatibility (EMC). One of the main solutions provided by EMC is the shielding against
electromagnetic (EM) radiation. Conventional screens for EM radiation are constructed from metallic plates, however,
fabrics with conductive yarns may be used as well, with multiple advantages: lightweight, flexibility, mechanical
resistance and 3D shape ability.
The paper addresses the shielding of the electromagnetic near field, by proposing an analytic relation taking into account
both geometrical and electrical parameters of the fabric, based on the circuit method. A validation study was performed,
by measuring the shielding effectiveness of an enclosure with a cover from woven fabrics with conductive yarns. The
experimental setup includes both the electrical measurement devices, as well as a set of five woven fabrics with
conductive yarns from stainless steel and silver. The experimental results for the electromagnetic near field frequency
range (1–20 MHz) present values in good relationship to the analytic relation.
The simplified analytic relation allows the computing of the distance between the conductive yarns of the woven fabric
in relation to the targeted shielding effectiveness. This relation supports the design process of a fabric, with balance
between its costs and its target shielding effectiveness.
Keywords: shielding, validation, distance between conductive yarns, weft, stainless steel, silver
Citation: Rădulescu, I.R., Surdu, L., Visileanu, E., Costea, M., Pătru, I., Voicu, V., Modelling and testing the electromagnetic near field shielding effectiveness achieved by woven fabrics with conductive yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 169–176, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1508
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Article: Air, moisture and thermal comfort properties of woven fabrics from selected yarns
Authors: QURBAT ZAHRA, ASIF ELAHI MANGAT, AHMAD FRAZ, SAJID HUSSAIN, MUDASSAR ABBAS, UMAIR MUKHTAR
Pages 177-182
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1447
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
Air and moisture transport properties of plain woven fabric made from 20sNec cotton in warp and 20sNec pure yarns of tencel, modal, pro-modal, bamboo, polyester and cotton yarn inweft direction are studied. Major characteristics added
for this study include water vapour permeability, air permeability, wettingtime and wicking speed. In comparison of six
different samples of variously composed materials in weft direction, the air permeability of tencel was minimum and
polyester was maximum, whereas the reverse results were observed for both the samples in case of water vapour
permeability. Among the blends with cotton, thermal conductivity of bamboo and thermal absorptivity of polyester was
found maximum whereas the minimum thermal resistance was observed for pro modal yarn in weft. Similar pattern was
observed in spreading speed and wetting time of the polyester when observed from either side top or bottom. Air and
moisture comfort properties of bamboo and pro modal, having nearly similar values are suggested to be used in
garments used for golf players.
Keywords: moisture management properties, water vapour permeability, air permeability, wetting and thermal comfort
properties
Citation: Zahra, Q., Mangat, A.E., Fraz, A., Hussain, S., Abbas, M., Mukhtar, U., Air, moisture and thermal comfort properties of woven fabrics from selected yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 177–182, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1447
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Article: Novel portable device to analyze themoisture permeability of car seat
Authors: FUNDA BUYUK MAZARI, ADNAN MAZARI, ANTONIN HAVELKA, VIERA GLOMBIKOVA
Pages 183-189
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1455
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
The comfort performance of car seat is important factor while producing car seats, each layer of the car seat is tested
separately on classical testing machines, which lacks the real car seat performance when all layers are sandwiched.
The complication of car seat design and the testing method bring a great demand of portable device which can measure
the comfort performance of the real car seat. In this research a novel portable device is designed which work with special
heat flux sensor and the device is connected to computer by USB port and values of heat flux temperature of the water
and temperature of the surface is provided by the software. Heat flux sensors measure the heat transfer through a
surface, and are expressed in kw/m2. The software controls the heating plate adjustment using PID controller. The
device is tested with real car seat and shows repeatable and reproducible results.
Keywords: car seat, comfort, portable device, heat flux
Citation: Mazari, F.B., Mazari, A., Havelka, A., Glombikova, V., Novel portable device to analyze the moisture permeability of car seat, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 183–189, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1455
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Article: 3D print additive technology as a form of textile material substitute in clothing design – interdisciplinary approach in designing corsets and fashion accessories
Authors: JASMINKA KONČIĆ, JOSIPA ŠČAPEC
Pages 190-196
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1430
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
This research paper enquires into the application of 3D print additive technology in fashion design. The research aims
to find the design options for garments by substituting the textile material with new technological solutions. The focus of
the paper is the interdisciplinary research of innovative corset and fashion accessories designs made using 3D print
additive technologies. The main focus of the work is the interdisciplinary process of creating clothes ranging from preliminary
sketches to prototypes within three different areas: contemporary art, fashion design and additive technology.
Keywords: corset, additive technology, 3D print, mobile sculpture
Citation: Končić, J., Ščapec, J., 3D print additive technology as a form of textile material substitute in clothing design – interdisciplinary approach in designing corsets and fashion accessories, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 190–196, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1430
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Article: Effect of yarn structure on cover factor in woven fabrics
Authors: ZUHAIB AHMAD, MOAZ ELDEEB, SHOAI IQBAL, ADNAN AHMED MAZARI
Pages 197-201
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1416
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
This experimental work investigates the effect of yarn structure on cover factor of fabrics at different weft settings by the
light transmission method. To analyze the effect, two different types of fabric set have been prepared by using airjet and
rotor yarns of the same linear densities in the weft direction and keeping the warp yarn unchanged. For each fabric, weft
setting has been changed gradually. Cross-sectional diameter of yarn and its packing density has been analyzed to find
out the differences between both yarn structures. The effective yarn diameter and packing density have been found to
be almost same for both yarns while the hairiness is found to be higher in airjet yarn as compared to rotor yarn. Yarn
cross-section in the fabric has also been analyzed to examine the deformation (flatness) in yarn, which was relatively
higher in airjet yarns. At the same weft setting the cover factor (CF) of fabric woven by air jet yarn is found to be higher
than fabric woven by rotor jet yarn, and this difference decreases as the weft setting increases in fabric. Correlation
analysis results show the relation between the cover factor and weft setting. While analysis of variance results show
statistically significant effect of spinning system (airjet and rotor yarn) and weft setting on the cover factor of woven
fabric.
Keywords: airjet yarn, rotor yarn, weft setting, cover factor, woven fabric
Citation: Ahmad, Z., Eldeeb, M., Iqbal, S., Mazari, A.A., Effect of yarn structure on cover factor in woven fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 197–201, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1416
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Article: Investigation of the effect of fabric properties on the fabric use efficiency
Authors: MAHMUT KAYAR, NIHAN KIRAR, ÖYKÜ CEREN BULUR
Pages 202-205
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1326
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
There are several factors affecting fabric usage efficiency, one of them is fabric properties. The usage of different
fabrics for production of the same product increases or decreases the amount of fabric needed, which affects the cost
of the product. In this study, effect of fabric properties on the fabric usage efficiency was investigated. For the application
processes, 3 different fabrics properties and 3 different garments were used and totally 9 marker plans were prepared.
By analyzing the prepared marker plans fabric usage ratios were obtained and effect of fabric properties on the
fabric usage efficiency was investigated.
Keywords: fabric properties, fabric usage efficiency, marker plan
Citation: Kayar, M., Kirar, N., Bulur, O.C., Investigation of the effect of fabric properties on the fabric use efficiency, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 202–205, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1326
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Article: The methodology for evaluation and predicting of clothing comfort for functional apparel
Authors: LADISLAV NAGY, MARIE KOLDINSKA, ANTONIN HAVELKA, SONA JANDOVA
Pages 206-211
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1316
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
The aim of this study was testing the first layer of clothing. It can be used separately, or together with other layers of
textiles in the sandwich structure of clothing. As this layer is in direct contact with the skin, the evaluation does not focus
only on its thermo physiological properties, but also on sensory perception of the fabric. The main purpose of this layer
is to transport heat and moisture from the skin to surface, or to the other layers. One way of assessing the physiological
comfort of the garment is testing garments under defined conditions and standards in a laboratory. For testing, T-shirts
made from 100 percent natural fibres, chemical fibres, and also mixed fibres for the comparison were chosen.
Experimental work was carried out in the following two steps of laboratory testing: measurement of selected utility
properties in the Laboratory of Physiological Comfort, and the measurement degree of Total Hand Value in the
Kawabata Evaluation System. For the prediction of clothing comfort and the garment performance quick assessment, a
simple equation for the comparison of the selected set of T-shirts was also created.
Keywords: clothing comfort, objective evaluation, functional apparel
Citation: Nagy, L., Koldinská, M., Havelka, A., Jandová, S., The methodology for evaluation and predicting of clothing comfort for functional apparel, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 206–211, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1316
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Article: The behavior in finishing of textile materials made of man-made fibers containing ZnO in blends with cotton
Authors: ALINA POPESCU, LAURA CHIRILA, DOINA TOMA, MARIAN RASCOV, CORINA CHIRILA, LAURENTIU CHRISTIAN DINCA
Pages 212-218
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1477
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
The objective of this study was to investigate the behavior in finishing of textile materials made of man-made fibers
containing ZnO in blends with cotton. It has been studied the possibilities of reducing the concentration of the chemical
agents considered to be aggressive for the functional textile fibers, the temperature and the duration of the processes,
as well as the number of technological operations performed, so that the dyeing quality will not suffer and the dyed
samples to be acceptable from the uniformity and fastness point of view. To highlight the influence of the chemical
auxiliaries used in finishing operations, the process temperature, pH and the treatment duration on the physical-chemical and physical-mechanical characteristics of the functional fibers, various methods of preliminary treatment
and dyeing were applied in different experimental variants. In order to assess the preliminary treatments performance
from whiteness degree and hydrophilicity point of view, the fabrics were tested before and after preliminary treatments.
Finished fabrics (preliminary treated and dyed) were tested for the efficiency of the performed treatments in terms of
color difference attributes and color fastness. The finished fabrics were also characterized in terms of the main physical-
chemical and physical-mechanical characteristics: mass, tensile strength, tearing strength, water vapor
permeability, air permeability. SEM analysis was used to investigate the surface morphology of treated fabrics.
Antibacterial activity of treated samples was tested against the Staphylococcus aureus test strain.
Keywords: functional fibres, preliminary finishing treatment, physical-mechanical-chemical properties, antibacterial activity
Citation: Popescu, A., Chirila, L., Toma, D., Rascov, M., Dinca, L.C., Chirila, C., The behavior in finishing of textile materials made of man-made fibers containing ZnO in blends with cotton, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 212–218, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1477
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Article: Export competitiveness analysis of Pakistan garments industry based on GEM Model
Authors: ASIF ALI SAFEER, MUHAMMAD ABRAR, SAJJAD AHMAD BAIG, ABDUL BASIT, MUHAMMAD ZIA-UR-REHAMAN, MUHAMMAD HASHIM
Pages 219-229
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1457
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
The main purpose of this research study is to investigate export competitiveness of Pakistani garment industry in the
global markets by applying the GEM Model. GEM model is vastly applied in many industries to analyse the export
competitiveness of the particular cluster. Survey technique applies to primary data collection through a structured
questionnaire. Pakistani garments industry export competitiveness based on GEM Model is analysed by using the
analytic hierarchy process (AHP) technique. After thorough analysis, overall calculated GEM score is 382 for Pakistani
garment industry. GEM score 382 means that Pakistani garment industry is above the national average level and
possess country wide competitive advantages. The future research scope is that there can be studied the associations
between one or many other factors to check the competitiveness level of Pakistani garment industry. This research work
has very important practical implications for all stakeholders to evaluate the export competitiveness level of the garment
industry. By applying the GEM model, the organization can evaluate its strengths and weaknesses, so that organizations
can cope with the international competition accordingly which is supportive to make decisions for their businesses.
Keywords: Pakistani garment industry, exports, competitiveness, GEM Model, global markets
Citation: Safeer, A.A., Abrar, M., Baig, S.A., Basit, A., Zia-Ur-Rehaman, M., Hashim, M., Export competitiveness analysis of Pakistan garments industry based on GEM Model, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 219–229, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1457
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Article: Research on mechanical behavior of needle-punched nonwoven fabric
Authors: WU WEI, GAO XIAOPING
Pages 230-234
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1410
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
The anisotropic properties in tensile and creep behavior of needle-punched nonwoven fabric are studied in this paper.
The influences of specimen width and direction of fiber distribution on the tensile behavior of needle-punched nonwoven
fabric are experimental analyzed. The result shows that the specimen width has important influence on tensile behavior.
The anisotropic creep behavior of needle-punched fabric i.e., the influences of stress and the angle with the machine
direction (MD) on creep is investigated. The relationship between creep elongation and time at different stress and
different angle with the machine direction (MD) of needle-punched fabric are obtained by applying linear fitting and the
empirical model for calculating creep elongation are deduced. The result has an important meaning for predicting the
mechanical behavior, such as tensile, creep and relaxation behavior of needle-punched nonwoven fabric and reducing
experimental expense and difficulty.
Keywords: needle-punched fabric, creep, tensile, anisotropic, specimen width
Citation: Wei, W., Xiaoping, G., Research on mechanical behavior of needle-punched nonwoven fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 230–234, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1410
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Article: An investigation on the unevenness, hairiness and friction coefficient properties of cotton-bamboo blended ring-spun yarns
Authors: OĞUZ DEMİRYÜREK, AYÇA KILIÇ
Pages 235-242
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1302
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
This study aims to investigate the frictional and other important yarn properties such as unevenness and hairiness of
cotton/bamboo blended yarns. For this purpose, %100 cotton, %50/%50 cotton/bamboo and %100 bamboo ring spun
yarns were produced in five different twist coefficients (ae: 3.5; 3.7; 4.0; 4.2; 4.5) and in four different linear densities
(Ne 16/1; 20/1; 24/1; 28/1). General factorial design was used for analyzing the data. In conclusion, the highest friction
coefficient and the lowest hairiness were obtained for the pure bamboo blends; whereas, the highest unevenness
values were observed in pure cotton.
Keywords: cotton, bamboo, blending, friction coefficient, unevenness, hairiness
Citation: Demiryürek, O., Kiliç, A., An investigation on the unevenness, hairiness and friction coefficient properties of cotton-bamboo blended ring-spun yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 235–242, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1302
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Article: Research on the possibilities of reducing the effects of shock waves in case of explosions in environments with dust and textile suspended particulate matter
Authors: OLIMPIU STOICUTA, MARIN SILVIU NAN, DĂNUŢ GRECEA, CĂTĂLIN PLOTOGEA, DORINA POPESCU, ALEXANDRU LAURENTIU CHIOTOROIU, GABRIEL ŢUŢUIANU
Pages 243-248
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1480
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
This article presents an automatic system designed to reduce shock waves resulting from an internal explosion in a
closed space where mixing with air under atmospheric conditions of flammable substances in the form of dust or fibers
after ignition, is propagated in the whole unconsumed mixture.
The automatic system provides ventilation of the enclosure in order to reduce the effects of the explosion. The system
is developed around a microcontroller and is based on a predictive algorithm. The power supply of the automation
devices used in the system is made from a stand-alone photovoltaic system with electrical storage located outside the
closed space.
Keywords: automatic system, protective systems, predictive algorithm
Citation: Stoicuta, O., Nan, M.S., Grecea, D., Plotogea, C., Popescu, D., Chiotoroiu, A.L., Ţuţuianu, G., Research on the possibilities of reducing the effects of shock waves in case of explosions in environments with dust and textile suspended particulate matter, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 243–248, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1480
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Article: Some validation aspects on the analytical method for assaying carcinogenic amines from textile dyes
Authors: ELENA PERDUM, ANDREI VALENTIN MEDVEDOVICI, FLORENTIN TACHE, EMILIA VISILEANU, IULIANA DUMITRESCU, CORNELIA-ELENA MITRAN, OVIDIU-GEORGE IORDACHE, ION RAZVAN RADULESCU
Pages 249-256
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1521
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
Chemicals safety control and ecological properties have become a priority for the textile industry in order to avoid the
negative effects on humans and environment. The increasing interest for toxicology of textiles is determined by the
presence of dangerous compounds in clothes generated from dyeing and finishing processes. In order to protect human
health, European Regulations as Oeko Tex Standard 100 and REACH Regulation limit the presence of dangerous
chemicals, such as aromatic amines, generated by reductive cleavage of azo dyes, by no more than 30 mg/kg of textile
material. The main goal of this research work was to develop and validate a HPLC/MWD method for precise and reliable
identification and quantification of carcinogenic aromatic amines derived from banned azo dye specific to the textile
industry. The simultaneous determination of 24 regulated aromatic amines has been conducted by two chromatographic
methods according to SR EN ISO 14362-1:2017 in order to avoid matrix interferences and compounds misidentification
due to the presence of structural isomers. Preliminary analyses to establish the maximum absorption wavelength of
each standard solution of aromatic amine were performed simultaneously at four wavelengths, 240, 280, 305 and
380 nm. With the scope of demonstrating the consistency, reliability and accuracy of the analysed data, both liquid and
gas chromatographic method were validated. Parameters as selectivity, precision, limit of detection and limit of
quantification of the analytical methods were evaluated. The certainty of the determinations was also proved by the
results of proficiency testing conducted by IIS Netherlands on azo dyes in textiles.
Keywords: proficiency testing, carcinogenic amines, textile dyes, textile ecology, HPLC, GC-MS, validation
Citation: Perdum, E., Medvedovici, A.V., Tache, F., Visileanu, E., Dumitrescu, I., Mitran, C.-E., Iordache, O.-G., Radulescu, I.R., Some validation aspects on the analytical method for assaying carcinogenic amines from textile dyes, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 249–256, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1521
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Article: Harness/container assembly for the sport parachute – A new concept
Authors: ADRIAN SALISTEAN, CLAUDIA NICULESCU, CONSTANTIN NITE, GEORGETA POPESCU, SABINA OLARU
Pages 257-260
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.03.1474
Published online: June 2018
Abstract
The paper presents a new design concept of the harness/container assembly for sport parachutes. It can be used with
reserve parachutes and main parachutes of different volumes. So the assembly will be multifunctional. The container
is the subassembly that keeps the main and reserve parachute canopies in a folded condition, together with the
suspensions lines, the deployment device and the pilot chute in the reserve and main compartments. The harness, or
suspension system, ensures the link between the parachute jumper and the canopies and supports the weight of the
parachute jumper.
Currently, container parachute manufacturers produce containers whose compartments have a well-defined volume and
dedicated to a particular type of parachute with the same volume in folded state.
The new concept consists in the design and development of a harness/container assembly with variable volume compartments.
Thus it is possible to have a multifunctional container usable with canopies of different volume in a folded
state.
Keywords: container, compartment, volume, main parachute, reserve parachute
Citation: Salistean, A., Niculescu, C., Popescu, G., Olaru, S., Nite, C., Harness/container assembly for sport parachutes – A new concept, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 3, 257–260, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.03.1474
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