Issue 4 / 2024

Inner covers

A promising perspective to upgrade cotton dyeing performances when dyed with a red fluorescent pigment

Author: HIND ALGAMDY
Pages: 389–395
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.202398
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
This paper studied the dyeing with a fluorescent red pigment, and several dyeing performance problems were detected. This research aims to improve these performances, particularly those of dyeing fastness. Various surface treatments have been applied to bleached cotton fabrics to do this. Two commercial agents have been used, namely ST1 and ST2, which are essentially quaternary ammonium preparations with a cationic character. In addition, the dyeing process parameters have been studied, namely, the dyeing temperature, time and pH, to achieve the best conditions allowing acceptable dyeing performances with the fluorescent red pigment. Moreover, SEM images were taken for treated and untreated cotton fabrics, and no great morphological differences were detected. Finally, dyeing performances were evaluated based on the measurement of colourimetric coordinates, colour yield K/S and dyeing fastness properties. Very promising results have been found following a surface treatment with 8% of the agent ST1, a dyeing process of 30 inutes at 50°C for a pH of 8.
Keywords: surface treatment, fluorescence, cotton, dyeing fastness, morphological aspect
Citation: Algamdy, H., A promising perspective to upgrade cotton dyeing performances when dyed with a red fluorescent pigment, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 389–395,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.202398

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Article: Supply chain integration and supply chain performance: evidence from the textile industry

Authors: IKRAMUDDIN JUNEJO, MD BILLAL HOSSAIN, SIDRA ABID, QAISER RASHID JANJUA, SARMAD EJAZ, LÁSZLÓ VASA
Pages 396–404 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.2023110
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
This study aims to determine the impact of supply chain integration on supply chain performance and the Internet of Things (IoT) mediating role in Sindh Pakistan's textile industry. Primary data was gathered with the help of questionnaires from previous studies. The employees were requested to complete the questionnaire online, and the concerned HR department was officially contacted. To achieve the research objectives of this study, SmartPLS version 3 is applied. The findings of this study confirmed the direct effect of internal integration, supplier integration, and the Internet of Things on supply chain performance. In addition to this, the present study also confirmed the partial mediation effect of IoT between internal integration, supplier integration, and supply chain performance in the textile industry of Sindh, Pakistan, a developing country. This research uses RBV theory to examine the textile industry's supply chain and effectiveness. Internal integration, partner integration, IoT, and supply chain performance are discussed in the research. This clarifies how these technologies operate together to give organizations a competitive advantage. The study shows how the Internet of Things (IoT) is a go-between for integration and supply chain success. Textile business managers should consider investing money into IoT devices and using their benefits. Companies can get real-time information about their supply chain by using IoT devices and monitors.
Keywords: supply chain integration, Internet of things, supply chain performance, textile industry

Citation: Junejo, I., Hossain, Md.B., Abid, S., Janju, Q.R., Ejaz, S., Vasa, L., Supply chain integration and supply chain performance: evidence from the textile industry, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 396–404,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.2023110

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Article: Determining the mechanical properties of biomaterial-based economic thermoplastic composites reinforced with hemp fibres

Authors: NILDA ÖZSOY, ERHAN SANCAK
Pages 405–414 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.2022118
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
In this study, continuous reinforcement materials of hemp fibres and matrix polymers (staple polylactic acid (PLA), staple bicomponent PLA) were carded in a conventional carding machine. Various proportions of the hemp fibre reinforcement material, ranging from 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, and 60% were used in the production of biocomposite structures. We have further studied the effect of several carding passages (up to 3 passages) on the strength performance of both the staple PLA and the staple bicomponent PLA matrix. To obtain composite samples, the carded webs were further consolidated in the hot press machine. Further mechanical performance analysis was carried out in both the cross direction as well as parallel to the machine direction. It was observed that the introduction of reinforcing hemp fibre shows an increase in tensile strength up to the critical fibre loading amount and a decrease in tensile strength after the critical fibre loading amount. The highest tensile strength of 35.84 MPa was obtained for (40HEMP / 60PLA / M / P3), applied to the composite structures in the machine production direction, while the lowest value was 14.70 MPa (60HEMP / 40BPLA / M / P1), respectively.
Keywords: natural fibres, biomaterials, oriented UD tape composites, lightweight materials, bio-composites, staple polylactic acid (PLA), staple bicomponent PLA, hemp fibres

Citation: Özsoy, N., Sancak, E., Determining the mechanical properties of biomaterial-based economic thermoplastic composites reinforced with hemp fibres, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 405–414,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.2022118


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Article: AdaBoost algorithm for the recognition of young women’s body shapes based on 2D images

Authors: YAO TONG, MIN YUENING, WANG JUN, ZHOU BAIXUE, PAN LI
Pages 415–421 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.202319
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
Classifying and recognizing the human body shape during human body measurements based on 2D images helps to improve measurement accuracy. In this paper, 430 young women's 2D body images were selected to establish 2D body datasets. The characteristic indices used to represent the body shape in 2D images were extracted by computer vision technology, namely the body height pixel value, projected unit area, and projected area ratio of the front and side of the body. The two-step cluster model was used to classify the body shape into three clusters: the tall, flat, and medium fatness type; the short, thin, and medium roundness type; and the round, fat, and medium height type. Then, the decision tree model and AdaBoost algorithm, an ensemble learning algorithm with the decision tree as the weak classifier, were used to recognize the body shape. The results show that the recognition accuracy of the decision tree recognition model was 93.19%. The body shape recognition method using AdaBoost achieved a better recognition effect than the decision tree model, and the recognition accuracy of the test set reached 97.35%. Through comparative study, we found that the recognition accuracy of the 2D body shape recognition method based on AdaBoost was improved and that the recognition accuracy was relatively stable. This study provides a new method for the recognition of human body shape in clothing customization and online shopping.
Keywords: body shape classification, body shape recognition, 2D images, AdaBoost, decision tree

Citation: Tong, Y., Yuening, M., Jun, W., Baixue, Z., Li, P., AdaBoost algorithm for the recognition of young women’s body shapes based on 2D images, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 415–421,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.202319

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Article: Traditional marketing mix helps clothing store brands analyse service value and increase customer retention

Author: BESTOON OTHMAN
Pages 422–433 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.2023104
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
This study sought to determine how the conventional marketing mix might assist low-cost clothes in assessing the value of their services and increasing client retention. Due to this shortage, contemporary authors have suggested introducing an additional crucial aspect, namely after-sales support, while studying the service marketing mix (SMM) for “cheap clothes”. This study examined and included one new dimension of the service marketing mix instead of the conventional 7 P's of SMM. In this study, the effects of SMM cloths on service quality and client retention in Hubei Province were also examined. These effects included advertising, place, people, product, pricing, process, physical evidence, and aftersales service. Clothing Store brand providers from “Hubei Province” compete with one another in a crowded market since there are so many new entrants selling and providing comparable goods and services. Retention consequently becomes an issue. Surveys with different persons in various positions, such as professors, PhD students, MSc students, and BSc students of various nationalities, were done, and data was obtained using the convenience sample technique. In “Hubei Province”, the sampling technique was utilized to gather information from clothes whose guests had ever stayed in low-cost Hubei Province clothes. The Partial Least Square Method was utilized to evaluate the data from the 385 valid questionnaires that were obtained for this investigation. The results showed that both directly and indirectly, through service value, the service marketing mix had a considerable beneficial impact on customer retention. This study will be valuable to the low-cost Cloth sector since it will clarify the role that marketing mix strategies have in sustaining long-term client connections.
Keywords: service marketing mix, service value, customer retention, clothing store brands, Hubei province

Citation: Othman, B., Traditional marketing mix helps clothing store brands analyse service value and increase customer retention, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 422–433,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.2023104

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Article: Analysis of influencing factors of raw cotton quality and prospect of optimisation pathway

Authors: JUNYANG WANG, LIMIN ZHANG, JINCHAN ZHANG, WANXIN WANG, HONG XU
Pages 434–440 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.202395
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
The paper discusses the issue of raw cotton quality and summarises it in the context of the current state of research. The article highlights the importance of cotton seeds for improving cotton quality and points out the problems in cotton seed selection and breeding. The article also mentions other factors affecting cotton quality, such as planting technology, light factors, defoliation and ripening technology, anisotropic fibre content and cotton picker operation quality. Based on these findings, ways to optimize the quality of raw cotton are proposed, including exploring suitable cotton varieties for machine picking, mitigating differences in raw cotton quality due to differences in geographic location and climatic conditions, and optimizing the use of picking techniques and processing machinery to reduce the impact on raw cotton quality. In conclusion, the paper provides a useful reference for promoting the application of cotton mechanical picking technology.
Keywords: cotton seed, cultivation, fibre quality

Citation: Wang, J., Zhang, L., Zhang, J., Wang, W., Xu, H., Analysis of influencing factors of raw cotton quality and prospect of optimisation pathway, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 434–440,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.202395

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Article: Innovative approaches to optimized cutting planning in the garment industry

Authors: SIMINA TEODORA HORA, CORINA-MIHAELA GRUESCU, CONSTANTIN BUNGAU, RENATA BODEA
Pages 441–447 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.202386
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
The garment industry is responsible for large amounts of waste. The current line of making the industry sustainable imposes rethinking of all stages, from design to assembling. The research starts from the observation that the optimization of the cutting plan is resourceful regarding the reduction of waste. The paper proposes an original software dedicated to the planning of cutting. The markers for a given product, onto which are arranged one to four sizes are characterized by four parameters: coefficient of utility of fabric, total length of the fabric, number of layers and length of the marker. The use of the software is demonstrated for the product coat, to which the best marker is established. Numerical results show how variable the coefficient of utility can be, thus how important is the optimization of markers before cutting the fabric. For the product coat, whose patterns are long (the dimension along the length of the fabric is significantly bigger than the dimension along the width) the utility coefficient is optimized from 57% to 78%. Several observations (applying to all markers) are noticed regarding the shape of the patterns and the number of sizes on a marker. The software should be of interest to companies which assemble garment pieces. The mathematical model and logic applied within the software are validated using an experimental study on the product's dress and coat, to which the practical coefficients of utility are 75% and 87% respectively.
Keywords: cutting, garment industry, planning of cutting, coefficient of utility of fabric, digitalization

Citation: Hora, S.T., Gruescu, C.-M., Bungau, C., Bodea, R., Innovative approaches to optimized cutting planning in the garment industry, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 441–447,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.202386

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Article: Determinants affecting the current state and perspectives of development of textile and clothing industry clusters within the European Union

Author: DENISA GAJDOVÁ
Pages 448–454 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.202397
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
The textile and clothing industry is one of the oldest industries ever, as the need for clothing is as old as human existence itself. Of course, the challenges and problems it faces are connected with this, currently primarily the environmental burden, the need for digitization, low wages for workers as well as the protection of brands and the development of the grey economy. With its positions, the European Union declares its interest in solving these issues. Many traditional companies are undergoing changes and there is a natural need for innovation, thus the textile and clothing industry is interfering with the creative industry. The barriers to innovation in this area are frequently small and medium-sized enterprises, which cannot solve many things and be competitive compared to large enterprises, but their flexibility and quick response to the changing needs of customers and the market give them advantages compared to the big ones. The possibilities of how smaller businesses can succeed and compete even in the long term are through clusters, which will provide them with the necessary scope, strength, and research, but at the same time keep them independent. In our contribution, we tried to find out the perspective of the development of textile and clothing industry clusters in Europe given the existing market situation and consumer expectations.
Keywords: creative industry, clusters, the European Union, localization coefficient, innovation

Citation: Gajdová, D., Determinants affecting the current state and perspectives of development of textile and clothing industry clusters within the European Union, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 448–454,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.202397

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Article: Sustainability and environmental costs in the textile industry: a case study

Authors: SENEM PAK, YUSUF KAYA, MEHMET UTKU
Pages 455–462 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.202384
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
The impact of greenhouse gas and carbon emissions on climate change and more frequent natural disasters in recent years have increased people's and government's environmental awareness. The enactment of environmental legislation and new standards have resulted in some additional environmental costs for companies. Every additional cost is very important for companies operating under intense competitive pressure. Companies operating in the textile sector undertake the costs of prevention, use and damage at every stage of their production. In this study, the importance of the textile sector in Türkiye in terms of the country's economy has been revealed and the environmental costs of textile enterprises have been examined. The study aims to reveal the environmental costs for yarn production, yarn dyeing process, weaving-confection processes and dyeing-finishing processes separately and to calculate the share of these costs in total operating expenses. According to the results of the study, it has been determined that the share of environmental costs in total expenses in the textile company is 3.1%. It has been observed that the share of environmental costs in total expenses varies between 0.5% and 6% at different production stages.
Keywords: environmental costs, textile industry, environmental accounting, sustainability, cost analysis

Citation: Pak, S., Kaya, Y., Utku, M., Sustainability and environmental costs in the textile industry: a case study, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 455–462,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.202384

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Article: Functional textile surface production by analysing the mechanical properties of cotton, bamboo and linen woven surfaces

Authors: NURAY CEVIZ, SEVHAN MUGE YUKSELOGLU
Pages 463–474 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.2023102
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
In the textile industry, it is seen that the use of nanomaterials is increasing to meet the demands for long-lasting and sustainable products. This research aims to improve the mechanical properties of 1×1 plain weave cotton, bamboo and linen surfaces made of natural yarns by coating them with ZnO, TiO2 and SiO2 to provide sustainable natural life and create a sustainable functional textile surface. For this reason, coatings were made with nanoparticles and applied to textile surfaces. The blade (stripping knife) coating method with subsequent dosing was used when the coating agent was liquid with an appropriate viscosity value. The surface morphology of the treated fabric was characterized by SEM, EDS and FT-IR analysis. Mechanical properties were analysed by thickness, weight and tear strength tests and antibacterial activity against S. Aureus and E. Coli bacteria were tested. When the results were examined, it was determined that cotton, linen and bamboo surfaces, which did not have antibacterial properties except for E. Coli (49.56%), showed antibacterial properties (100%) in bamboo and linen after coating with ZnO and TiO2, and in bamboo after coating with SiO2. The coating material also caused different effects in terms of thickness, weight and strength change.
Keywords: nanoparticles, mechanical properties, natural fabric, antibacteriality, cotton, linen, bamboo

Citation: Ceviz, N., Yukseloglu, S.M., Functional textile surface production by analysing the mechanical properties of cotton, bamboo and linen woven surfaces, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 463–474,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.2023102

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Article: Investigating the post-pandemic textile market: the stake of private labels in customer loyalty

Authors: SULIBHAVI BASAVARAJ, GADDI ALOK, VIRGIL POPESCU, RAMONA BIRAU, KULKARNI PRASAD, PETRE VALERIU NINULESCU, K. SHIVASHANKAR, SHARAN KUMAR SHETTY
Pages 475–483 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.2023132
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
The textile market is a global production, processing, and distribution industry. It includes various products, from natural fibres like cotton and wool to synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon. The textile market has faced several challenges recently, including rising production costs, increasing competition from overseas producers, and declining consumer demand. This empirical study examines the relationship between private labels offered in organised retail apparel stores in Belagavi, North Karnataka, India, and certain factors such as customer satisfaction, trust, and Loyalty. This study explores the role played by trust as a mediator between customer satisfaction and Loyalty to brands in the textile industry. The data were collected from 460 respondents using convenience sampling with a structured questionnaire. The results show that Satisfaction (B=0.0782, p=0.611) and Trust (B=0.8678, p<0.001) show significant positive unstandardised coefficients in the regression model predicting Loyalty. There is a mediated but indirect influence of customer trust on customer satisfaction and Loyalty generated by Satisfaction in the study area. By weaving together Satisfaction and trust, textile retailers can forge stronger customer bonds, enhance Loyalty, and gain a competitive edge in the Belagavi market. This approach paves the way for sustainable growth and success in the dynamic textile landscape.
Keywords: private label textiles, customer satisfaction, customer trust, brand loyalty, textile market, pandemic, purchase intentions, e-commerce, textile, fashion, fabric, apparel

Citation: Basavaraj, S., Alok, G., Popescu, V., Birau, R., Prasad, K., Ninulescu, P.V., Shivashankar, K., Shetty, S.K., Investigating the post-pandemic textile market: the stake of private labels in customer loyalty, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 475–483,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.2023132

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Article: Relationship between elastic properties and energy absorption of different types of aramid and UHMWPE composites used in ballistic protection

Authors: ALİ ARI, MEHMET KARAHAN
Pages 484–497 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.2023137
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
This study aimed to analyse composite materials' mechanical and elastic properties from various aramid and ultra-highmolecular- weight polyethylene fabrics used in ballistic armour materials. Furthermore, a comprehensive analysis was conducted to examine the correlations between the energy absorption data acquired from the low-velocity impact, dynamic compressive, and ballistic impact V50 tests performed in our prior investigations and the tensile test outcomes of these composites. The research revealed a notable correlation between Poisson's ratio, elasticity modulus values, and energy absorption capability. The composite material with the lowest Poisson ratio exhibited superior energy absorption performance in all tests. Composites reinforced with unidirectional textiles have attracted attention due to their low Poisson ratio and high elasticity modulus values, resulting in exceptional energy absorption capability.
Keywords: elastic properties, aramid, UHMWPE, ballistic, Poisson's ratio, auxetic structure

Citation: Ari, A., Karahan, M., Relationship between elastic properties and energy absorption of different types of aramid and UHMWPE composites used in ballistic protection, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 484–497,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.2023137

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Article: Study of extraction and characterization of ultimate kenaf fibres

Authors: MOUNIR JAOUADI, MOHAMED TAHER HALIMI, SLAH MSAHLI
Pages 498–505 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.202349
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
This study proposed an extraction process of Tunisian kenaf fibres to obtain ultimate fibres with minimum aspect ratio, minimum retention capacity and high yield and high absorption capacity. The extraction process was performed by varying the treatment duration (120–180 min), the temperature (110–130°C), and the sodium concentration (10–40 g/l). After that, a factorial design, that has been built using statistical software Minitab.17, was followed to identify the optimum operating conditions. After the extraction process, kenaf fibres were used to produce dry-laid nonwoven fabrics. Results reveal that mixed treatment improves the absorption properties of fibres. To characterize these fibres, some properties were measured like morphological structure and absorption properties: absorption and retention capacity. The morphology of the cellulose fibres (length and, diameter distribution), obtained from the optimum process, was determined by measuring 300 fibres with «Leica» optical microscopy. Ultimate fibres extracted from kenaf had an absorption capacity of 12.5 g/g and a retention capacity of 0.65 g/g. Finally, the characteristics of the optimum ultimate kenaf were compared to those of other vegetable fibres.
Keywords: kenaf fibre, extraction, morphological structure, absorption capacity and retention capacity

Citation: Jaouadi, M., Halimi, M.T., Msahli, S., Study of extraction and characterization of ultimate kenaf fibres, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 498–505,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.202349

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Article: Design and research on the posture-adjustable mannequin for chest-up and hunchbacked posture

Authors: GUODONG XU, YUJIA REN, YU CHEN
Pages 506–513 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.20247
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
The development of garment personalization has put forward diverse requirements for mannequins. In this paper, we present a garment mannequin that can continuously alter the body posture in response to changes in human body posture in the chest and back regions. This research is founded on an analysis of the patterns and ranges of movement in the mannequin's chest and hunchbacked motions. We segmented the mannequin into six modules: neck, front chest, back, left and right shoulders, and waist and abdomen. By employing stepper motors, we independently drive the front chest, back, and left and right shoulders to achieve the simulation and continuous adjustment of the mannequin's body posture for chest and hunchbacked positions. The comparison of the 3D scans shows that the mannequin fits well in several cross-sections with the corresponding body variations of real people, and the results of the real shirt also show that the shirt made based on the simulated hunchbacked body mannequin is significantly better than the standard shirt in terms of comfort and aesthetics for a person with a hunchbacked body posture. The body posture adjustable mannequin can replace multiple static mannequins, which can provide strong support for the business model of personalized clothing customization. Compared with the existing dynamic mannequin, it has the advantages of high relevance, simple structure and low production cost.
Keywords: adjustable mannequin, garment personalization, hunchbacked posture, chest-up posture, garment customization, 3D scanning, electromechanical integration technology

Citation: Xu, G., Ren, Y., Chen, Y., Design and research on the posture-adjustable mannequin for chest-up and hunchbacked posture, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 506–513,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.20247

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Article: Navigating the complexity of sustainable transition in the textile and apparel industry: a comprehensive analysis across disciplines, geographies and stakeholders

Authors: MOHD AFJAL, CHITRA DEVI NAGARAJAN, PAYAL SANAN, RAMONA BIRAU, VAIKUNTA PAI T., ROXANA-MIHAELA NIOATA (CHIREAC), ALIN NIOATA
Pages 514–532 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.04.2023108
Published online: August 2024

Abstract
This research study provides an exhaustive bibliometric analysis of the sustainability transitions within the textile and apparel sector. Utilizing the advanced tools of Biblioshiny and VOSviewer, the study maps out the intellectual structure of this field, elucidating co-citation, co-word, and collaboration networks. The prominence of keywords such as "sustainable development", "sustainability", and "textile industry" emphasizes the sector's growing focus on sustainable practices. Furthermore, an assessment of gender and ethical dimensions in research revealed a potential gap in inclusivity, prompting a call for more equitable research representation. Geographically, the prominence of contributions from regions like China and India suggests the need for region-tailored sustainable strategies. Simultaneously, the fusion of technological innovations with sustainability highlighted the interdisciplinary nature of current research. Real-world impacts of this academic discourse were examined, spotlighting the translation of theory into tangible industry practices. Despite the significant insights, the study recognizes its limitations, including potential geographical and publication biases. For policymakers, stakeholders, and academics, this study offers invaluable insights into the current landscape of sustainability research in the textile and apparel industry, suggesting areas of focus and potential opportunities for future exploration.
Keywords: sustainability transitions, textile and apparel sector, bibliometric analysis, interdisciplinary research, sustainable practices

Citation: Afjal, M., Nagarajan, C.D., Sanan, P., Birau, R., Pai T.V., Nioata (Chireac), R.-M., Nioata, A., Navigating the complexity of sustainable transition in the textile and apparel industry: a comprehensive analysis across disciplines, geographies and stakeholders, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 4, 514–532,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.04.2023108

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