Authors: IRINA RUSEVA, KRASIMIRA GENOVA, ZLATINA KAZLACHEVA, LILIANA INDRIE, ZLATIN ZLATEV
Pages: 535–542
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.2023120
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
Finding the most efficient marker planning method is crucial to reduce cut-and-sew waste. Small adjustments to the
design and pattern can help reduce the amount of fabric waste, since marking loss happens during the cutting process
because of spaces and unusable sections between pattern pieces and the curved pattern edges.
Existing research mainly concentrates on optimising the consumption of textile material without taking into account the
design, aesthetics and functionality of the final product. On the other hand, they are mainly focused on optimizing the
sleeves’ construction and in search of new design solutions, with gaps in quantitative and comparative analysis to
reduce waste while producing women's jackets.
This article aims to propose and explore constructive changes in women's jacket designs with 5 different types of
sleeves, to assess the possibility of reducing cut-and-sew waste levels in the cutting process. There have been created
4 different marker plans for each type of sleeve to achieve the high-efficiency markers. It was found that the semi-raglan
sleeve showed the marker efficiency with the best results (76.04%), followed by the raglan sleeve with 72.03% and
72.34% for the drop shoulder sleeve. Interestingly, for the raglan and semi-raglan sleeve variants, the marker efficiency
is not affected by the specific geometric characteristics.
The Principal Component Analysis (PCA) method was used to determine which pattern arrangement variant was most
appropriate for the different sleeve types.
Keywords: women's jacket, sleeve design, reduction of textile waste, pattern pieces, nesting
Citation: Ruseva, I., Genova, K., Kazlacheva, Z., Indrie, L., Zlatev, Z., Evaluating women's jacket sleeves designs for sustainable fashion and textile waste reduction, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 535–542, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.2023120
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Authors: SHEN PANDENG, ZHANG JIANLEI, HE LIN
Pages 543–549
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.202399
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
To explore whether a carbon trading pilot (CTP) can promote the low-carbon development of China's textile industry
(CTI), this paper used a difference-in-difference model to study the impact of CTP on the carbon emissions in CTI and
further analysed its regional heterogeneity. The research results showed that the impact coefficient of CTP on the carbon
emissions in CTI was significantly negative, indicating that CTP could reduce the carbon emissions in CTI. Robustness
tests such as the Placebo test, replacing the explained variable and the estimation method and excluding the
interference of other policies verified the robustness of the research results. The dynamic regression results revealed
the carbon reduction effect of CTP became stronger as the time of its implementation increased. At the regional level,
CTP could also significantly lower the carbon emissions in the textile industry both in the eastern and western regions,
and the reduction effect in the western region was greater than that in the eastern.
Keywords: carbon emissions, carbon trading pilot, China's textile industry, difference-in-difference model, low-carbon development
Citation: Pandeng, S., Jianlei, Z., Lin, H., Carbon trading pilot and low-carbon development of China’s textile industry, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 543–549, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.202399
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Authors: RALUCA MARIA AILENI, CRISTINA STROE
Pages 550–555
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.202332
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
This paper presents a multidimensional analysis of textiles coated with conductive polymers for actuators. The purpose
of using multidimensional scaling analysis is to compare similarities and dissimilarities between conductive textiles
obtained through conductive polymeric film deposition to observe the optimal value for electrical resistance and to select
an adequate method to achieve conductive fabric using different polymers (polyethylene glycol, polyvinyl alcohol or
polyvinylidene fluoride) and metal microparticles (copper or nickel). The multidimensional analysis is based on mapping
a series of material properties from a proximity matrix (similarities or dissimilarities) between these properties.
Multidimensional scaling allows rebuilding the exact map of the values (within approximately a symmetry or rotation). To
fit dissimilarity or similarity matrices for multiple variables into one common space estimating the weight parameters for
each variable, the INDSCAL model (individual differences multidimensional scaling) was used.
Keywords: textile, multidimensional scaling, analysis, resistance, conductive, actuators
Citation: Aileni, R.M., Stroe, C., Multidimensional analysis of textiles coated with electroactive polymers for actuators, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 550–555, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.202332
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Authors: JEAN ROGER FARFAN GAVANCHO, VICTOR MANUEL LIMA CONDORI, SAMUEL QUISPE MAMANI, URIEL QUISPE MAMANI, JORGE JESÚS VEGA YÉPEZ, ROXANA TACURI ROBLES
Pages 556–564
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.2023100
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
The research aims to evaluate the solidity of the washing colour of a garment printed with flexible filaments on 3D
printers. Three groups of factors have been selected: Anet A8 and M3D Crane Quad printer, temperature (49° and 71°C)
and flexible filaments TPE (thermoplastic elastomer) and TPU (polyurethane thermoplastic), framed in the factorial
design, type applied of 10 units per combination of factors in a total of 80 sampling units, using Girowah equipment
according to the technical standard AATCC TM61-2020. The results show that the printer factors Anet A8 and M3D
Crane Quad with the CIELab and CMC (2:1) discolouration system exceed 50% in both the tolerances of the value 1.
About the temperature factor (49° and 71°C), which exhibits a discolouration of 1.06 in CIE94 and 1.36 in CMC, it is
determined that the combination with better resistance to discolouration of solidity at washing (CIE94 - 49°C) compared
to CMC (2:1) better establishes the visual and technical concordance of the solidity of colour. As regards flexible filament
types: TPE and TPU, the results show us that the colour tolerance assessments (CIELab CIE94) and (CMC (2,1)) prove
that the TPE filament has greater resistance to the discoloration of the 3D-printed garment at different temperatures. In
conclusion, the solidity of colour washing in a printed garment with flexible filaments in a 3D printer causes discolouration
by the minimum, be it the factors of printer type, filament, and temperature. There is a need for analysis with other values
and it remains open to other research.
Keywords: TPU and TPE filament, CIE94, CMC (2:1), Snowflake pattern, standard AATCC TM61-2020
Citation: Gavancho, J.R.F., Condori, V.M.L., Mamani, S.Q., Mamani, U.Q., Yépez, J.J.V., Robles, R.T., Evaluation of wash colour strength of a printed garment with flexible filaments on 3D printers, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 556–564, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.2023100
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Authors: ALI ARI, MEHMET KARAHAN, NEVIN KARAHAN, BUŞRA YEDEKÇI
Pages 565–576
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.2023103
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
This study aims to examine the mechanical and burning properties of composites made from twill (0°/0° and 0°/90°
orientations) and plain fabrics using hybrid yarns produced by combining glass and polypropylene yarns with interwoven
and intermingled methods. The properties of interwoven and intermingled hybrid fabric composites were compared with
thermoset composites. Each composite (56% glass fibre content) plate is produced by combining eight fabrics with the
same parameters using the press moulding technique. The effects of yarn and fabric weaving types on the results were
examined in detail. When the results are examined, the breakage of glass fibres in intermingled hybrid yarns negatively
affects the strength results. Therefore, composites made with intermingled hybrid yarn types and plain weave types of
fabric had the lowest tensile strength value (132 MPa). The composite of twill woven fabrics produced with interwoven
yarns arranged in 0°/0° orientation had the highest tensile strength of 315 MPa, and these results were very close to
those of thermoset composites. Although the 0°/90° oriented twill composite showed a 2.3 times lower tensile strength
value than the 0°/0° oriented twill composite, it had a 7.7 times higher value when bending strength values were taken
into account. The main reason for this is that glass fibres contribute to the warp and weft directions. It has been observed
that the composite consisting of plain fabrics woven with commingled hybrid yarns had the highest impact resistance.
Additionally, when the combustion results were examined, it was concluded that the type of yarn and fabric weaving
affected the burning rate. The slower combustion of hybrid commingled yarn composites resulted from fibreglass
breakage during yarn production. These findings provide valuable insights into optimizing composite materials for
specific applications, considering factors such as weaving pattern, fibre orientation, and mechanical performance.
Keywords: glass fibre, polypropylene, twill, plain, interwoven, intermingled, yarns, composites
Citation: Ari, A., Karahan, M., Karahan, N., Yedekçi, B., Comparison of mechanical and flammability properties of thermoplastic and thermoset matrix glass fibre woven fabric composites, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 565–576, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.2023103
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Authors: OVIDIU IORDACHE, BOGDAN CAZAN, ELENA PERDUM, ALINA-FLORENTINA VLADU, MARIAN CATALIN GROSU, LAURENTIU DINCA, ALEXANDRA GABRIELA ENE
Pages 577–583
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.2023141
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
The existing worldwide information related to the aerial modules used for transporting mulching substances is
particularly pernicious. Thus, at this moment, on an international level, cargo transport solutions for mulching lands
affected by soil drought are limited to identifying the maximum value of the load (1250–4500 kgf), the type of raw
material from which it is made (polyamide), the shape (quadratic, octagonal, rectangular) and its dimensions (2.13 m ×
3 m for a maximum transport capacity of 1250 kgf – 5.5 m × 5.5 m for a maximum transport capacity of 4500 kgf). Also,
among the solutions for protecting lands affected by wildfires, the sowing technique with the help of drones was
identified. Thus, the seeded compost balls are allowed to fall by gravity from the drones, being released randomly in the
demineralised areas, difficult to reach by land transport. The paper presents the latest research of INCDTP specialists
– carried out in the national premiere – regarding the iterative-incremental development of a multi-role collapsible aerial
module that has as its theatre of operations the desertified areas (due to the pedological drought) of Romania. The
central point of the research is focused on: i) the experimentation in the accredited laboratories of INCDTP, of flexible
panels joined by mechanical-textile technology; ii) statistical analysis of values; iii) predicting the minimum values of the
physical-mechanical characteristics of the composite material.
Keywords: composite materials, flexible panels assembly, descriptive statistics, normal distribution, ultimate load coefficient
Citation: Iordache, O., Cazan, B., Perdum, E., Vladu, A.-F., Grosu, M.-C., Dinca, L., Ene, A.G., Data evaluation for identifying meaningful engineering characteristics of the flexible panels used for aerial module for pedological drought, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 577–583, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.2023141
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Author: SOFIEN BENLTOUFA
Pages 584–590
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.202484
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
The dynamic of cooling heat flow during evaporation of the simple jersey polyester fabrics was investigated in this study.
The holding period as a new parameter was introduced to study the dynamic of cooling heat flow during evaporation
from the skin through the jersey knitted fabric. The holding period intervals were chosen as follows: 0, 30, 60, 90, 120,
180, 240 and 300 seconds.
The Permetest skin model was used to study and visualize the dynamic of the cooling heat flow at different holding
periods. Results demonstrated that adding elastane makes fabrics less cool. Three different stages were noticed
concerning the cooling heat flow dynamic: the first with a maximum heat flow (Qmax) indicating the first contact
properties of a textile material with the skin. The second is a transition phase where the cooling heat flow decreases to
the minimum heat flow (Qmin), and then it reaches the equilibrium (Qeq) mentioning the beginning of the third stage
with a constant heat flow. It was found that the holding period does not affect the measured water vapour resistance, in
the case of polyester jersey fabrics.
Keywords: cooling, dynamic heat flow, water vapour resistance, elastane, jersey
Citation: Benltoufa, S., The dynamic of cooling heat flow of simple jersey polyester fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 584–590, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.202484
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Authors: YING SONG, NING ZHANG, TONG WU
Pages 591–598
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.2023130
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
To explore the differences in sensory imagery produced by different geometric patterns and dress silhouettes, this study
selected and extracted 4 different types of geometric patterns and 4 typical dress silhouettes as research carriers,
determined the research samples through cross-combination, and used 8 pairs of sensory word pairs as research
semantic space. Consumer sensory evaluations of the dress samples were collected through a survey questionnaire.
The results were analysed using SPSS26.0 software, which showed that three sensory factors affect the appearance of
the dress style. According to their main characteristics, they can be named as personality factor, temperament factor,
and style factor. In terms of the silhouette of the dress, the neat and regular geometric pattern is most affected by the
silhouette of the dress, while the other three types of geometric patterns are relatively weak. In terms of geometric
pattern rules, different geometric patterns have different effects on the overall appearance of the dress after being
combined with the silhouette of the dress, and some dresses play a certain role in all three factors.
Keywords: Kansei engineering, geometrical pattern, profile, dress, style design, SPSS, factor
Citation: Song, Y., Zhang, N., Wu, T., Image evaluation and analysis of fabric with a geometric motif in dress style design, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 591–598, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.2023130
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Authors: SU CHENG, RAMONA BIRAU, JENICA POPESCU, VAIKUNTA PAI T., GABRIEL NICOLAE PRICINĂ, COSMIN MIHAI PRICINĂ
Pages 599–610
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.2024128
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
Contemporary literature argues that the exchange rate serves as an important instrument of industrial policy to boost
economic growth. However, it is difficult to design effective exchange rate policies owing to the uncertainty shrouding
the outcomes of the exchange rate movement for industrial growth. Therefore, this study uses a dynamic simulated
autoregressive distributive lags approach to study the impact of positive and negative changes in the real effective
exchange rate on industrial production of Malaysia for the period 1970–2022. We employ an extended production
function to study this relationship by incorporating capital, labour and globalisation as additional explanatory variables.
The findings suggest that positive (negative) changes in real effective exchange rate are followed by positive (negative)
changes in economic growth in the long run. Furthermore, positive changes in capital affect economic growth positively
and significantly in both the short and long run. Finally, positive (negative) movement in labour and globalization
positively (negatively) and significantly affect industrial production in the long run respectively. Policymakers should
depreciate currency to expand industrial production in Malaysia. Moreover, to boost industrial production, short-term
loans should be introduced for capital accumulation.
Keywords: exchange rate, industrial production, capital, labour, dynamic simulated ARDL simulations, textile industry, Malaysia
Citation: Cheng, S., Birau, R., Popescu, j., Pai V.T., Pricină, G.N., Pricină, C.M., Exchange rate fluctuations and industrial production in Malaysia: evidence from dynamic simulated ARDL analysis, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 599–610, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.2024128
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Authors: WU GAI-HONG, LIU XIA, ZHANG JIE, LIU SHU-QIANG, WANG CAI-LIU
Pages 611–621
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.20242
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
The Qing Dynasty Lu-silk Apron in the Shanxi Folk Museum is a representative example of the traditional Chinese
Apron, with profound cultural and aesthetic connotations regarding pattern type, colour application, and process
techniques. Nevertheless, a minimal survey has been done on the Qing Dynasty Lu-silk Apron. The study aimed to
discuss the exquisite textile techniques and artistic features of the Qing Dynasty Lu-silk Apron and analyse the social
system, humanistic sentiment, cultural symbolism, and intelligent thinking at multiple levels through style types, size
analysis, colour interpretation, pattern expression techniques, and skill production. In this article, we also used the
popular simulation technology to restore the Qing Dynasty Lu-silk Apron and provide a new way and path to study other
ancient costumes.
Keywords: Lu-silk Apron, 3D virtual simulation, traditional clothing, digital textile information, style characteristics
Citation: Gai-Hong, W., Xia, L., Jie, Z., Shu-Qiang, L., Cai-Liu, W., Study on digital textile information and 3D virtual simulation of Chinese Qing Dynasty Lu-silk Apron, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 611–621, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.20242
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Authors: SOFIEN BENLTOUFA, AYMAN ALFALEH
Pages 622–632
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.20241
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
Based on a mathematical formulation of the water flow for different wicking configurations (ascendant-horizontal and
descendant), a combined ascendant, horizontal and descendant wicking experimental test was designed to provide
detailed measurements of the pertinent wicking performance properties: capillary pressure and in-plane direction
permeability. This method was proposed due to capillary flows found in standard vertical wicking tests as well as
erroneous assumptions made in other wicking tests. The effective capillary radius was assumed to remain constant as
the height of the liquid increases. This assumption would suggest that saturation, capillary pressure, and permeability
are also constants. However, experiments show that these properties are only constants in the case of the descendant
wicking when liquid front height is varied. The capillary pressure and permeability calculations were made using Darcy’s
law and the Lucas-Washburn equation as a function of the saturation level. In the combined wicking test, conducting a
horizontal wicking test allows us to calculate the effective capillary radius of a fabric as the saturation rate was found to
be constant, which in turn can be used to solve for capillary pressure. That capillary pressure can then be used in a
descendant wicking test, where the liquid front flow and the saturation rate remain constant, and Darcy’s law to solve
for permeability. A series of experiments was conducted on cotton jersey knitting. The results showed that the ability to
wick the water depends on pore size and porosity scales: macro and micropores. The in-plane water permeability was
found to be directly related to the saturation rate.
Keywords: capillary pressure, combined wicking, saturation rate, water permeability
Citation: Benltoufa, S., Alfaleh, A., Textile fabric's in-plane water permeability determination during wicking, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 622–632, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.20241
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Authors: ALİ ARI, MEHMET KARAHAN, MUHAMMAD ALI NASİR
Pages 633–643
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.202410
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
The out-of-plane behaviour of 8 different composites exposed to very high deformation rates and non-standard
conditions was investigated in our previous studies. The mechanical properties of these composites have been
evaluated through tests conducted at deformation rates comparable to those experienced during explosions. Based on
the relevant test results, this study conducted a numerical analysis of 3 best-performing Aramid UD GS3000, Artec
Aramid/Woven Aramid CT736, and H62 UD-UHMWPE-reinforced composites. In this regard, LS-DYNA's MAT54 model
was compared with other failure mechanics-based models and preferred because it requires less experimental data and
can simulate damage progression in dynamic failures. Since the samples used in the study were non-standard,
quasi-static tensile and shear tests were performed based on the loads to which the composites would be exposed to
create an accurate numerical analysis. Both tensile and shear strength values of the Artec Aramid/Woven Aramid CT736
composite are higher than those of the Aramid UD GS3000 and H62 UD-UHMWPE composites. When the numerical
analysis results were compared with the tensile test data, compliance rates of 99.84% for Aramid UD GS3000 reinforced
composite, 99.34% for Artec Aramid/Woven Aramid CT736 reinforced composite, and 96.42% for H62 UD-UHMWPE
reinforced composite were determined. The analysis showed that the shear stress-strain curves provided 100%
agreement at the maximum stress value.
Keywords: numerical analysis, LS-DYNA, aramid, UHMWPE, quasi-static, shear test
Citation: Ari, A., Karahan, M., Nasir, M.A., Mechanical properties of aramid and UHMWPE thermoplastic composites: numerical and experimental trials, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 633–643, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.202410
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Authors: LILIANA HRISTIAN, EMIL CONSTANTIN LOGHIN, IONUȚ DULGHERIU, SAVIN DORIN IONESI, MANUELA AVĂDANEI, LUMINIȚA CIOBANU
Pages 644–651
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.202451
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
The present paper aims to highlight the correlations between the comfort indicators of waterproof cotton-based fabrics,
and the specific parameters of unconventional assembly technology. The materials considered include layers of
Gore-Tex film, serving as substitutes for waterproof materials, intended to manufacture outerwear products such as
protective equipment (jackets and overalls), which are breathable waterproof membranes. The comfort indicator values
were obtained through standardised methods, and data processing and representation in two-dimensional (2D) and
three-dimensional (3D) systems using correlation/graphing methods were carried out in Excel software, and using
Jandel Table Curve 3D v2. Although experimental research can be extended to include specific functions related to
durability indicators, this study focused theoretically and experimentally on how the variation in temperature of the
low-pressure hot air jet can lead to changes in the vaporization coefficient, air permeability index, and thermal
conductivity coefficient. The relationship between the comfort indicator values (thermal conductivity coefficient, air
permeability index, and vapour permeability coefficient) of the considered materials and the treatment parameters of the
installation (pressure, temperature, velocity) is expressed through statistically adequate mathematical models,
highlighted by a correlation coefficient R = 0.983, with significance certified by the Fischer test. The study of comfort
indicators was conducted under optimized treatment parameters, ensuring durability and presentation value functions in
the treatment zone remain unchanged compared to those of the base materials.
Keywords: functional textiles, vapour permeability, air permeability, thermal conductivity, correlation method
Citation: Hristian, L., Loghin, E.C., Dulgheriu, I., Ionesi, S.D., Avădanei, M., Ciobanu, L., The influence of unconventional assembly techniques on the comfort indicators of waterproof materials, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 644–651, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.202451
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Authors: RALUCA MARIA AILENI, CRISTINA STROE
Pages 652–657
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.2022144
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
This paper presents mathematical modelling based on predictive and correlation analysis of independent and dependent
variables of conductive materials to develop sensors or actuators. The resulting analysis and optimisation develop
improved systems based on sensors or actuators, including selecting the appropriate conductive materials for
development. Toward this purpose, 46 materials with electroconductive properties were selected and analysed. The
independent variables considered were mass, air permeability and thickness, and the dependent variable was defined
as the electrical surface resistance of the conductive fabric used.
Keywords: textile, predictive, resistance, conductive, sensors, actuators
Citation: Aileni, R.M., Stroe, C., Predictive analysis of electroconductive material parameters for system optimisation, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 652–657, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.2022144
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Authors: ALI ARI, MEHMET KARAHAN
Pages 658–668
DOI: 10.35530/IT.075.05.202470
Published online: October 2024
Abstract
This research examines how impact energy spreads across para-aramid fabrics, comparing woven and unidirectional
types, using 2-D Thin Plate Spline analysis. The experiment involved dropping a weighted hemisphere onto fabric
samples and measuring their deformation across different layer counts. To assess how yarn orientation affects energy
dispersion, panels with 0º/90º and 0º/90º/±45º configurations were tested. By analysing the fabric's shape changes
under impact, the study revealed patterns of energy propagation. Calculations of bending energy and expansion factors
provided insights into this behaviour. The findings indicate that unidirectional fabrics outperform woven structures in
distributing impact energy across their surface. Moreover, incorporating ±45º fibre reinforcements in both fabric types
enhances energy dispersion and mitigates impact effects.
Keywords: Thin Plate Spline (TPS) method, impact energy, woven and unidirectional para-aramid fabric
Citation: Ari, A., Karahan, M., The comparative analysis of energy dissipation behaviour of woven and UD para-aramid fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2024, 75, 5, 658–668, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.075.05.202470
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